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Discussion Starter #1
I sent a message to Vern thinking that it would be generally posted. Apparently I didn't put out for the general population. At any rate, while I have great respect for Vern's input due to his vast experience towing TT's and am seriously looking forward to his response, I'm interested in feedback from everyone.

My wife and I are considering buying an Ourdoors RV 260 RLS. Dry tongue wt 775# and Dry Wt 7675#. We currently have a Nash 23D, dry wt of about 5500# and fully loaded around 7K. Is the 260 RLS beyond the realistic capability of the ED?

I am thrilled with the performance to date with around 17K miles towing the 23D. Just concerned about the larger trailer.
 

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So loaded your tongue weight would be around 1k, and 8500lbs for trailer. Tires? WDH ? how loaded the bed of the truck? Front grill free flowing? Might be pushing the limit. Go slow, watch the temp....
 

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If you’re staying local no long steep grades don’t travel fast will use you’re WDH & loading to set your axle & tongue weights you will be stable & just fine. But figure you’re likely looking at around 8,700 loaded with which you would want to set your TW at 1,000 pounds (12 percent) as seen on the scales by the increase in combined truck axle weight with camper vs without camper attached. You would want to set Steer axle to at least 3,200 pounds. Now at least you have a relatively safe n stable set up that will turn & stop and not be pushed by semi. If you don’t set your WDH to replace your unloaded steer weight/ have too much on your tongue she can turn into the proverbial white knuckle ride.

If you plan to take that TT & family cross country mountains winds interstate travel she won’t like it real well. She will easy run warm if you run above 65 or run into wind. However You can manage this by limiting throttle to no more than 3,000 rpms sustained. This also means on a steep interstate grade she will slow to probably 45. Overall the 1/2 ton platform is a little too soft for this size TT and the power / cooling system as well. It can be managed but requires good setup. I took 9,100 pound TT a 1,000 miles & over 6 percent grades but I wasn’t taking my family. I also had a tune with brake, plus trailer brake controller, load tires, honey comb grill, and most importantly a WDH with built in sway control and good setup adjusted to good cat scale results. So can you yes but a smaller trailer or bigger truck would be better. The trailer size you have now works quite well add 1,700 ish pounds plus wind drag & more leverage length and it requires better set up and more patience.
 

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I've got the Andersen hitch am pretty anal about the setup. I'm an old fart, so I don't travel very fast anymore, typically 57-62 mph. I live in NW Montana, so we do have some heavy grades. I'm gonna have to give this some serious thought. Don't want to fry the ED, and don't necessarily want to step up to a Cummins. Thanks for the responses.
 

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I think as long as you keep your expectations in line with what the truck can do you will be fine. You stating that you tow 57-62 mph gives me confidence your not expecting too much out of it. If you have 3.92's it ratted for it.

Will they let you test tow the trailer?
 

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That was a "mature" response.

Simple to take that dry weight and add the 1,500 lbs you did to the old trailer. Now you are at 9,100 lbs and it could be more. Check your tow rating for the configuration you have. Then read Vern's comments on real-world towing while dealing with wind, steep grades and other conditions that are less than idea.

Politely I say, "forget it".

Now the 2020's have a higher tow rating yet they are still 1/2 ton pickups. When a vehicle is pulling thousands of pounds higher than the vehicle weight itself, you have multiple things to consider.
 

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You won’t fry the engine unless you unforgivingly over heat it. You can even regularly pull a diesel down and for some reason differently than a gas motor it doesn’t seem to hurt it or shorten its life.

With your expectations for local camping you would probably be fine. Just don’t expect to run up a long grade at 70 or think you can safely hook & go until you have once taken her to the truck stop scale and gotten your hitch & general loading set up right. It’s a max type load for that truck.
 

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Is the weight you’re quoting off the trailer or the brochure? This is the same trailer I was considering but when I went to look at one the actual weight was pushing 7,900 and I decided it was too much. Too bad because it’s a nice floor plan. Also liked the 250 RDS but it was similarly heavy. I too didn’t want to have to move up to a 3/4. Ended up going with a lighter 24RKS plan.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is the weight you’re quoting off the trailer or the brochure? This is the same trailer I was considering but when I went to look at one the actual weight was pushing 7,900 and I decided it was too much. Too bad because it’s a nice floor plan. Also liked the 250 RDS but it was similarly heavy. I too didn’t want to have to move up to a 3/4. Ended up going with a lighter 24RKS plan.
This is about the same conclusion I've come to. If only the 24RKS had the wardrobe in the bedroom... like the others.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 

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That was a "mature" response.

Simple to take that dry weight and add the 1,500 lbs you did to the old trailer. Now you are at 9,100 lbs and it could be more. Check your tow rating for the configuration you have. Then read Vern's comments on real-world towing while dealing with wind, steep grades and other conditions that are less than idea.

Politely I say, "forget it".

Now the 2020's have a higher tow rating yet they are still 1/2 ton pickups. When a vehicle is pulling thousands of pounds higher than the vehicle weight itself, you have multiple things to consider.
Bigger trailer always means more stuff, more water and weight.

You are more likely to fry the transmission if you load up and drive on a steep unforgiving interstate with your foot to the floor and total disregard for mechanical sympathy.

You might start out towing with the ED, but I would recommend you consider an upgrade to at least a 2500 or even 3500. The latter would definitely survive the transition to an even bigger trailer.
 

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Across the forum over 6 years with little exception the Transmission has proved itself capable of handling everything even a tuned ED can throw at it. Mine being the poster child taking many including a few up to 9k trailers over 6 percent grades LA to Vegas and more.

Agree that an HD is better suited for a TT that size & weight.
 

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You are more likely to fry the transmission if you load up and drive on a steep unforgiving interstate with your foot to the floor and total disregard for mechanical sympathy.
This just hasn't been the case, these transmissions are stout.
 

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If anybody failed to "fry" a ZF transmission, it was me. I had temperatures towing over 280*. it threw multiple CEL's but even doing it for tens of thousands of miles, the transmission never balked.

Even when I changed the oil after multiple obscene overheatings, the oil still tested good.
 

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I've read dozens of these "can I tow a big heavy trailer with this truck" posts. I think most people will say that while yes you can, it could increase your risk of getting into dangerous situations.

My truck is a '15 4x4 3.55, inner spring air-bags, pre-AEM, and all stock other than that. I've got the 4-point sway control WDH from Equalizer for my Catalina 293qbck 33' total length trailer. The trailer weighed in at nearly exactly 8400lbs loaded. I was by my calculation at roughly 950lbs of tongue weight.

I last towed about 500 miles from NC to GA, then 500 miles from GA to TN, then 500 miles from TN to VA, and then 500 miles from VA back to NC. I felt comfortable for nearly the entire trip except going up the grade in NC on I-40 and then again on I-81. To keep the truck under temp on the grades I stayed below 3000rpms and chugged up at about 45mph. I don't have the picture on hand but oil temps were at around 260F and trans around 235F up the grades. Flat towing the temps were more like oil 245F and trans 225F.

My experience is that the truck is very capable of towing heavy. You just have to be willing to accept a certain level of risk. I plan to use my truck and trailer to travel for a year in the not too distant future. My plan is to have a local shop regear to 3.92, I'll get a HD Diesel Supply tune, and replace the grill to something less restrictive.
 

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My experience is that the truck is very capable of towing heavy. You just have to be willing to accept a certain level of risk. I plan to use my truck and trailer to travel for a year in the not too distant future. My plan is to have a local shop regear to 3.92, I'll get a HD Diesel Supply tune, and replace the grill to something less restrictive.
It all reads like you have a plan. What is good is your acceptance of going slower under tow and watching temperatures. Hope it all works out.
 

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I've read dozens of these "can I tow a big heavy trailer with this truck" posts. I think most people will say that while yes you can, it could increase your risk of getting into dangerous situations.

My truck is a '15 4x4 3.55, inner spring air-bags, pre-AEM, and all stock other than that. I've got the 4-point sway control WDH from Equalizer for my Catalina 293qbck 33' total length trailer. The trailer weighed in at nearly exactly 8400lbs loaded. I was by my calculation at roughly 950lbs of tongue weight.

I last towed about 500 miles from NC to GA, then 500 miles from GA to TN, then 500 miles from TN to VA, and then 500 miles from VA back to NC. I felt comfortable for nearly the entire trip except going up the grade in NC on I-40 and then again on I-81. To keep the truck under temp on the grades I stayed below 3000rpms and chugged up at about 45mph. I don't have the picture on hand but oil temps were at around 260F and trans around 235F up the grades. Flat towing the temps were more like oil 245F and trans 225F.

My experience is that the truck is very capable of towing heavy. You just have to be willing to accept a certain level of risk. I plan to use my truck and trailer to travel for a year in the not too distant future. My plan is to have a local shop regear to 3.92, I'll get a HD Diesel Supply tune, and replace the grill to something less restrictive.

You realize that you will have to change out the whole front axle assy to re-gear to the 3.92. Found many times on the forum discussions.
 

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You realize that you will have to change out the whole front axle assy to re-gear to the 3.92. Found many times on the forum discussions.
Which might actually be easier than setting up a new ring and pinion. Might be lots available at www.car-part.com .
 

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I've read dozens of these "can I tow a big heavy trailer with this truck" posts. I think most people will say that while yes you can, it could increase your risk of getting into dangerous situations.

My truck is a '15 4x4 3.55, inner spring air-bags, pre-AEM, and all stock other than that. I've got the 4-point sway control WDH from Equalizer for my Catalina 293qbck 33' total length trailer. The trailer weighed in at nearly exactly 8400lbs loaded. I was by my calculation at roughly 950lbs of tongue weight.

I last towed about 500 miles from NC to GA, then 500 miles from GA to TN, then 500 miles from TN to VA, and then 500 miles from VA back to NC. I felt comfortable for nearly the entire trip except going up the grade in NC on I-40 and then again on I-81. To keep the truck under temp on the grades I stayed below 3000rpms and chugged up at about 45mph. I don't have the picture on hand but oil temps were at around 260F and trans around 235F up the grades. Flat towing the temps were more like oil 245F and trans 225F.

My experience is that the truck is very capable of towing heavy. You just have to be willing to accept a certain level of risk. I plan to use my truck and trailer to travel for a year in the not too distant future. My plan is to have a local shop regear to 3.92, I'll get a HD Diesel Supply tune, and replace the grill to something less restrictive.
If you are going to pay to have a shop swap the gears its probably a better idea to sell trade your truck for a 2020 with more power the 3.92 gears and a better cooling package that is rated for a bit more than you are wanting to tow. I got a quote of over $4000 from a dealer to swap gears on a 4x4.
 

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3.92 can be cost effective if you have 2WD otherwise I’m with MAS get a 2020 gen 3.

The tune, trans tune, gears, grill, thermostat & perhaps slightly shorter tire will give you better acceleration & or maybe 5 mph on that climb. It will buy you a little more time before she heats up. All of it helps incrementally but cumulatively still not dramatically.

If a new truck next spring is not in the picture and you have a 4WD you might do all of it except the 3.92 as the other things can all be done inexpensively without paid labor and as you have time & funds available.

I will say if you get the tunes the turbo/engine brake combined with the TBC trailer brake controller is amazing & comforting when that 8,400 pound trailer is wanting to push you down a long 6 percent grade.

Last one great thing about diesels is this type of loading doesn’t seem to shorten their life or cause components failures like it does with gas motors. 260k on this motor already and no repairs it just does it like it its job. Well I’m sure the tune as it turns off EGR & more helps with this just saying. Lol people who calculate how long it will take diesel fuel economy to pay for the Diesel engine option for a purchase decision have no concept of this. Enjoy.
 
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