RAM 1500 Diesel Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2015 eco, 250,000kms, exhaust deleted about 220,00kms in, egr shut off around 190,000kms. I didn’t block off the egr, figured it was shut off why bother. Truck ran great on long trip, next day when home doing some small jobs around the property and hauling a small trailer it just lost power, would not throttle up at all. Started blowing white smoke, smelled like raw fuel but also had coolant in it. Had it towed the next day and there was collant on the ground under one of the exhaust clamps I had yet to tighten up again. It wouldn’t t start at all the day it was towed. Not sure where to start looking for the problem. Mechanic can’t get it in his shop for weeks. I pulled egr tube off wondering if I would see or smell coolant. This is two weeks past the stalling and the intake manifold side of the tube which is usually caked with dry soot from before the egr was shut off was sooty but very wet almost mushy, I assume that’s coolant spraying up into the intake…???? I’m thinking bypass the coolant hoses and give it a go but am worried now that coolant has gotten into the engine and it may be destroyed already. Ideas?? Fuel filter was just changed about 10, 000kms ago, oil level is fine and has no signs of coolant in it. Coolant has no oil in it. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,366 Posts
Remove the egr. Change all fluids. Might need to remove glow plugs and turn engine over to clear the cylinders.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok well this is interesting. Oil changed, no coolant in it. Made my own block off plates for the egr coolant lines out of sheet metal for test purposes. Installed on either side to block coolant. Installed another on the egr side of the inlet tube into the manifold. So nothing from egr can enter the engine and coolant could not flow through, it fired up after a very short period turning over but not much longer than normal. A few puffs of white smoke and it cleaned right up. Zero codes, throttle works fine, I checked for coolant leaks. Then let it run up to temp. Idled for 30 minutes, zero codes, zero hiccups. Short drive around and all good. I assume the egr let go and was dumping coolant into the intake, or maybe the turbo? I will likely run it a bit and change the oil again. And make a set of nice aluminum block off plates. Thanks for the quick responses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,366 Posts
Which coolant lines you block? When I did mine, the line behind the alternator is blocked and the two lines towards the ecm are spliced together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Which coolant lines you block? When I did mine, the line behind the alternator is blocked and the two lines towards the ecm are spliced together.
I blocked the one behind the rad and the one attaching the coolant line to the side of the egr where you sliced the two. It’s the same way my old kit worked. Very simple. I just have to make nice plates. I’ll test drive tomorrow and see how it works. The steel in there now is fine but I would like something more permanent .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah I have their stuff on my other truck! I was looking at it. I just want to block the coolant off and the intake manifold. I am fine leaving the egr there in place since it makes no real difference
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,680 Posts
Yeah I have their stuff on my other truck! I was looking at it. I just want to block the coolant off and the intake manifold. I am fine leaving the egr there in place since it makes no real difference
Since it sounds like you have a failed cooler it would be best to remove it completely, or at least block the exhaust side as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I blocked the coolant flow and the outlet into the intake manifold, without sounding ignorant what will blocking the exhaust side do? If I understand how it works the exhaust has no where to go and since the unit is shut off via tune the exhaust shouldn’t be going anywhere or is this just precautionary so hot exhaust gases don’t push into the egr with no where to go. I am honestly done doing it but dread the removal of those 3 bolts to the exhaust, I imagine one stripping and a little job becoming huge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,680 Posts
The egr cooler is still under 100% of exhaust manifold pressure all the time and with swirl effect could still get heat in the cooler. Something as simple as a stainless block off plate between the cooler might be all thats needed. Since your cooler is already failed that is only going to bet worse and could cause bigger damage.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top