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Discussion Starter #1
Put a new ARE Overland cap on my '14 ecodiesel with an LED brake light. Unfortunately, they won't let you install it yourself, so I had to take it to an 'authorized' dealer, who turned out to be a 60 year old cat lady living in a shanty in the suburbs of Baltimore.

All in all she did a good job, but she worked fast, and gave no commentary of anything she was doing. I did ask a question when I saw her removing the cab brake light bulb (which she dropped between the bed and cab), and her response was federal law prohibits leaving a bulb in the cab brake light housing because its in parallel with the new LED's that will replace it. Fast forward one day and the EVIC is saying the left brake light is out (the brake light she did all the wiring behind).

The brake light isn't out, but from what I've read on this forum and others, I've come to the conclusion the EVIC is responding to an amperage or voltage change, because it's not drawing as much power being LED vs. the incandescent and it doesn't understand the lesser resistance.

On the other forums folks were talking about changing the actual headlights and taillights out, and suggested to the folks asking in reference to the aforementioned that they install a 25ohm 10w resistor to mimic the resistance of the original bulb to get the EVIC to reset. I just don't know if that same one will work for the brake light.

I've also read there's no way to clear the message on the EVIC or reprogram it to recognize the new resistance saying the bulb isn't actually out. What I'm hoping is someone who had the same issue can either tell me I'm right or correct me and make a suggestion. Thanks.
 

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Don't have the answer but do have an observation.

I also have an ARE cap on my bed. It has the brake light at the top above the tailgate. ARE dealer did it and did NOT disconnect the brake light on the roof above my cab rear window.

No issues either. Ever think of putting a bulb back into the cab light?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yeah theres a thought. Haven't given it any real consideration yet because I was thinking the difference of resistance may still trip up the EVIC, but with your help it sounds like an option, my only other concerns are:

1. I've already had one leak from a seal, other than the brake light. From what I found out during that, the brake light seals leak quite a bit and I hate the idea of taking it back off and putting it on again.
2. It'd be hell reaching the brake light with the cap still on, so I'd either have to deal with that, or take the cap back off.
3. Note this as a minor concern, but her response to the question of why she was taking the bulb out revolved around the enormous fine (a few thousand I think) she claimed someone would be subject to if in fact the cab brake light remained in. I'm not clear on who would be subject to the fine, her, as an authorized dealer, or myself, from DOT or State Police.
 

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Same comments as Captainmal I have ARE Topper - installer didn't mess with cab light .. everything is working fine.
 

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The installer of my shell wired the shell brake light to the trailer brake light and left the cab brake light in. I though that the cab brake light may be objectionable, but it isn't even noticeable. The reason for wiring to the trailer brake light is that it isn't monitored for a particular current, as they don't know what you will have for trailer brake lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Gene,

Trailer brake light rewire also sounds like a very viable option, barring someone else having gone through the exact same scenario and having installed a particular resistor in parallel with the existing setup. Also glad to hear from all that the cab brake light being on isn't noticeable or distracting. I was thinking that a reflection from the brake light up against the cap may somehow shine down into the cab when its on and particularly dark out but it sounds like that won't happen.
 

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Put the bulb back in and cover the lens with tape so no one can see the light if you are worried about a fine.
 

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Gene,

Trailer brake light rewire also sounds like a very viable option, barring someone else having gone through the exact same scenario and having installed a particular resistor in parallel with the existing setup. Also glad to hear from all that the cab brake light being on isn't noticeable or distracting. I was thinking that a reflection from the brake light up against the cap may somehow shine down into the cab when its on and particularly dark out but it sounds like that won't happen.
I haven't found reflections or glare from the cab brake light a problem at all. As BigMac suggested you could use some black tape, but I would suggest putting it on the inside of the lens.
 

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She is an idiot. Put the original OE bulb back in the cab, then wire the topper brake like to the purple CHMSL wire that is kinda there for this purpose under the back of the truck in the wiring harness near the spare tire.

ETA: No reflection problems or fines around here with the bulb in.

If you lower the spare and go under there, it's tucked in the corner of the frame and the crossmember that holds the spare tire winch, drivers side, right near the bend in the harness (corner). Purple wire with a black insulator dipped/shrunk onto the end.
 

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I also have a ARE model X installed. My cab (3rd) brake light still functions and I have never noticed any issues with glare into the cab from reflections.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
-----------UPDATE-----------

To All Who Replied,

Thanks for the input. Since cat lady dropped the OE bulb between bed and cab, I went out and purchased a pack of 921 bulbs. With an extra hand, I was able to undo the clamps, slide the cap back 1" without changing the wiring, and reinstall the bulb in the cab brake light, and slide cap back to its original position. It reset the EVIC and all is well. Thanks.

To anyone in the future viewing this post attempting to solve the same dilemma:

Once the brake light is back in, the EVIC needs to have the signal sent to the brake light and back to the EVIC to compute the update in current/amperage, and then the warning will go off. This can be accomplished by installing bulb, turning ignition to aux or starting vehicle, and then turning off and back on again.

Now hopefully the cab brake light doesn't leak....anyone put an aftermarket seal on it to ensure the water seal? If so what kind?

Thanks
 
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