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Try that soaking. If you stick a ring and things break, badder (that a word?) things could happen. Soak this in diesel and just add a little break-free or other light penetrating oil.
 

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Before I would remove oil pan there are a few things I would check first cut the oil filter apart and check for metal . second check attachments on engine ie locked up hyd pump third I would remove starter and see if I could get any movement using a large screwdriver to pry ring gear back and forth good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks for all suggestions.

I will pull starter before I go further. Had it out once at the beginning so it shouldn’t take but a few minutes. Cylinders are soaking in PB blaster, although I don’t think topside is the problem. It’s clean. Believe I’ll find answers underneath. However, I am done for today.


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By the picture your cylinders have no rust or signs scoring , only time I’ve ever seen a piston locked up was
due to water intrusion....

You most likely will have to remove the front differential to remove driveshaft to remove oil pan , Not a big deal ,my neighbor just went through this exact circumstance about 3 months ago with his 40 hp Kubota, he lost a rubber oil plug and partially spun a main bearing , He removed the spun bearing and cleaned the crankshaft with Emory paper, still running good...

Now you could have a locked up injector pump , which WILL lock up your engine...

Maybe remove injector pump before removing oil pan ? It’s the easiest path ?

If you decide to remove oil pan if easily accessible,look for heat colored bearing caps , just remove the suspect one only and the try to turn the engine over... Process of elimination..

Personally I’d try injector pump first, It’s the easiest to eliminate...

I once disassembled an engine already removed and sent to our shop to be rebuilt only to discover someone replaced a timing gear and used too long of a bolt and it went through the gear , locked up the engine it was tightened against the block ,locking up the engine.....
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I will remove the injector pump after I get the starter out of the way this afternoon.

On a side note - I am just a low level technician in a CADD & Mapping office. But I have been lucky enough to telework as our building is shut down. It has allowed me to take care of our kids who’d otherwise be in elementary and middle school. The problem with this setup is that it’s very hard not to forgo the computer work (which I’m not fond of) and just jump straight outside to the things I want to do. Grass needs cuttin, tractor needs fixin, etc etc and I’d much rather be out there on these fine early spring days!


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Don't say "injector pump". If god gave the devil some role in life it would be to design and operate an old diesel injector pump. Do believe it could lock up the timing gear of an engine. Do know what looks simple turns into 8 hours of hell for each removal and replacement. I have done those twice each. I know.

Hope yours is way easier than this work of the devil I have had to deal with.

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How does an injector pump lock up the engine?


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it is gear driven from the engine and can fail internally and seize in effect locking up the engine. If it is the injector pump it seems to me the engine shaft should move a hair back and forth with a wrench on the crankshaft since there is bound to be a bit of slack in the gear train. If the main crankshaft is locked solid, I doubt it is the injector pump. Also beware of the timing issues of the injector pump. Most, perhaps all, of the mechanical pumps cannot just be removed and replaced willy nilly without paying attention to keeping the pump in proper timing with the engine so pay attention to that.

Not relevant, but I have a early/mid '80s Mitsubishi small 4x4 tractor(MT210-D I think) with a 22 hp 3 cylinder diesel and it has been a champ for me. Engine looks a lot like yours but I don't know its model number.

Good luck on your mechanical adventure!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
it is gear driven from the engine and can fail internally and seize in effect locking up the engine. If it is the injector pump it seems to me the engine shaft should move a hair back and forth with a wrench on the crankshaft since there is bound to be a bit of slack in the gear train. If the main crankshaft is locked solid, I doubt it is the injector pump. Also beware of the timing issues of the injector pump. Most, perhaps all, of the mechanical pumps cannot just be removed and replaced willy nilly without paying attention to keeping the pump in proper timing with the engine so pay attention to that.

Not relevant, but I have a early/mid '80s Mitsubishi small 4x4 tractor(MT210-D I think) with a 22 hp 3 cylinder diesel and it has been a champ for me. Engine looks a lot like yours but I don't know its model number.

Good luck on your mechanical adventure!
Thank you for the insight. After looking at the pump this am, it looks to be a bear to R & R so I will investigate further before it removal.

There is no slack in gear train. In fact, the crankshaft nut will loosen before the shaft rotates any, and that’s without holding anything else. Can’t turn other way either.

There was a small animal living in the engine compartment at one point. Lots of debris down there by the front of the engine. I’ll get that cleaned out and have a good look from underneath. Maybe taking more pictures will help me get a better grasp on things.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The flywheel moves by hand along with the pistons when the starter was removed. So now begs the question of what was stuck.... and if I slap it back together what is to stop it from sticking again. How she sits now..



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does the pinion move on the starter , both ways ?? , The pinion is moved by the solenoid; there is an initial period in
which the motor turns slowly to allow engagement, so the whole operation is more gentle and causes less wear on the teeth.
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if the pinion does not come back the flywheel can't turn .
you can test the starter even removed from tractor , when jumping selenoid it will kick , those are VERY STRONG little motors ,
..
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The starter is good. I tested it early in the game. What may have happened was reinstalling the wrong starter bolt. The top and bottom are different lengths. This pic shows correct bolt in bottom.
IMG_0687.jpg

As you can see here, the longer bolt was torqued down on the face of flywheel. Best I can tell, it stopped flywheel from budging. So I may have tore down a running engine for no reason, creating a couple problems along the way.

Figure I’ll do gaskets and check valves at least while it’s open. Live and learn!


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Oh Boy , when I did my quick search Yesterday , I read the exact same thing in a
result I found , bolt that touched flywhell or other part preventing engine from turning ,
You are not the first to do this it seems , ,
 

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Glad it was not seized. Damned manufactures that use different length bolts in a common area. Good luck on your further checks and re-assemble.
 

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Yeah. That bolt was probably the wrong one for that hole.

Your flywheel access is kind of like the access I have for the injector pump pictured above. On that arrangement there are multiple different hardware lengths requiring lots of marking and documentation, if/when you can even access them. I had to buy special tools to do simple things due to a miserable lack of access to something that looks so open.

Glad you may have found the problem. keep on keeping on.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Oh Boy , when I did my quick search Yesterday , I read the exact same thing in a
result I found , bolt that touched flywhell or other part preventing engine from turning ,
You are not the first to do this it seems , ,
I was too quick to assume it was internal. Had I just slowed down and had better checks it would have never happened.


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Speaking of slowing down, it wasn't clear to me how much you rotated the crankshaft. It is a four cycle engine so I encourage you to rotate is manually two full rotations to ensure each piston experiences top dead center on the compression and the exhaust stroke to ensure there is no interference or problem on a full cycle of each piston through intake, compression, power and exhaust stroke. Then you will be certain that there is no interference. I don't expect you will find a problem but do it just to be sure and minimize wasted effort in having to go backwards,

I will say, although I don't expect it to be your issue, my little Mitsu gave me a response similar to a lockup when the key starter switch had a fault. When you turned the key to start it would rotate the engine a bit and stop. Every time I tried it it did the same thing. After a bit of testing and puzzling I determined that the ignition switch was faulty. In the process of turning it fully to the right it passed through a sound contact to activate the solenoid for the starter and the engine rotated a bit and stopped. When the switch was turned fully to the right it no longer energized the solenoid to power the starter and it seemed like the engine was locked. I haven't yet replaced the switch and just turn the switch slowly until the starter engages and the engine starts. I wil; also add that this troublesome key switch originally activated the glow plugs too and that also failed so I wired them to a spring loaded toggle switch. Additionally the engine refused to shut off when I shut the switch off. This was supposed to deactivate a fuel solenoid and shut the engine down. It did not. I put a piece of haywire on the fuel pump and used that to shut the fuel off to stop the engine. The ony problem with that is you must also remember to shut the switch off or the drain on the battery for the gauges and energizing the alternator runs the battery dead.

So, after writing this all it dawns on me that I really need to replace the faulty starter switch even though I know how to get it to work. Most people jumping on the tractor wil conclude it has a serious flaw. UNfortunately years ago I found a replacement switch was something like $50. I need to look again to see if I can find a cheaper way to solve my overall problem.

Anyhow, good luck again. And btw, if you really a have a need to soak the pistons to unstick the rings I would use Rislone oil additive to pour on top of the pistons and help to soak the rings and pistons free. It is an excellent old time additive that did a great job years ago to dissolve problems in the early days of hydraulic lifters.

Good luck, but I expect you have this problem on the run..............................!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
No such luck.

After putting it back together it doesn’t want to start. I think it is a fuel delivery issue. I followed the book on bleeding the system, but may need to do it a couple more times.


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