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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Welcome to the 14 -19 Ecodiesel & our forum.

Some have the philosophy of being proactive to avert potential problems and work towards long term trouble free operation. Others worry about protecting warranty in hopes the motor expires before the warranty does. I believe in investing in your truck for problem free operation & long life. FWIW many warranty claims are being processed regardless of an aftermarket tune. Naturally FCA can challenge a warranty claim if they know you have an aftermarket tune and if think they can show reason for this causing said failure. Generally I believe FCA likes aftermarket ED tunes as they save FCA from paying out lots of unnecessary warranty work to dealerships.


1. Engine & trans tune. Fix the AEM government detune. GDE used, (closes EGR valve) GDE new gov compliant, Sofa King, HD Diesel, MR Tuning, Celtic several to choose from.


2. Check if EGR cooler has been replaced under warranty. If not either get it replaced via warranty if possible or search for a good EGR cooler delete kit. In the meantime watch coolant level as you want to keep it to the seam or above. All the factory original EGR coolers leak eventually. Products – No Eco Delete LLC

3. With this truck its easy to change your own oil. But regardless every 10k get it done with a 10k rated filter and an approved oil such as Rotella T6. Even if you are buying the oil & filter and paying a local to have it changed. Rockauto is a good mail order source for oil fuel & air filters. 2014 RAM 1500 3.0L V6 DIESEL Turbocharged Parts | RockAuto Oil I get at Rural King Rotella T6 full synthetic $49.99 for 2.5 gallon jug. (10 quarts)

4. Replace fuel filter/water separator with the factory Mopar filter. This is another one easy to do yourself. Tips use a large zip lock bag or wide mouth coffee can to drop the old filter into so that you don't spill diesel on yourself. When finished key the ignition on and wait for the pump to quit running before trying to start. This gets the fuel from the tank up front to the high pressure pump. I do it every third oil change or 30k per my original warranty.

Every spring & fall I pull the rubber fill plug, dip my finger in and check the rear differential fluid. If its silver with wear metals or brown with water rust change asap. It should be almost clear. 2.5 quarts of 75/140 full synthetic differential fluid plus if you have a limited slip get a small bottle limited slip additive or fluid that contains it. Walmart has the differential fluid 11.94 a quart plus the additive. If not most auto parts stores do. There is a drain plug on the bottom passenger side think it needs a T40. A simple do it yourself job.

Every 100k I change the transmission fluid. Easiest done with a shop lift so perhaps a local shop. You can get a new filterpan online very reasonably. Valvoline Max life full synthetic transmission fluid by the gallon at Autozone is inexpensive and has worked for me. Just bring the filterpan & fluid to your local shop. As to front differential & transfer case sheesh maybe every 150 or 200k. 785,000 miles this is what has worked for me.

All of this simple maintenance stuff you can do yourself or have a local mech do. You don't need to pay dealership service prices for it. If you have a check engine or warranty light a simple inexpensive two button code reader such as the Bosch 1000 will tell you the code (you can internet search the code) and can clear basic codes. It can also get you out of limp mode so that you don't need a tow and can deal with the problem on your own time.

Last when you know the code and what it references you can speak to the service writer mechanic or repair shop intelligently from a standpoint of perceived knowledge. You don't have to elaborate just say the code is x which I believe is for x. Have you worked with this before? I believe you improve your odds of compressing your time frames, minimising billed diagnostic time and especially for women or non mechanically inclined folks being sold unnecessary parts & services. There are bad actors, bad mechanics or just shops that are not acquainted with the VM Motori 3.0 or even diesels in general. There are also great mechanics & people. You just want to sort them out as quickly as possible.

Enjoy the truck and our forum let us know your experiences. This is a basic list feel free to add to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Tuned with EGR turned off from day one and nothing but Rotella T6. Cracked leaking valve cover I had it replaced. Lol all the dealership mechanics gathered around and marveled how clean and wear free at 415,000. :LOL: These are often filled with sludge from a functional EGR and or running uber cheap bulk small car oil for a gas motor from a cheapie lube shop.

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It obviously has wear but nothing beyond normal and looks like Rotella keeps it clean and wears well.
 

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Yep, that looks more like 41,500 miles :D
 

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I have a theory that, as these motors wear in, wear metals actually go down. My Blackstone Labs UOA's tend to show this. 100% agree on the T6 oil. Always suggested my customers use it in their boats with diesels. Also, people poo-poo on K&N air filters, but my silicon levels have averaged 4-5 ppm with one. Wash and re-oil every 25,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Intake & MAF sensor looked good also. I think a testament to both GDE tuning & Rotella T6 oil. Wish I had gotten more better pics.

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Aside from a tank of bad fuel almost immediately following the installation of my replacement motor and later a tone wheel. (Never did tone wheel on first 371k motor) My repairs so far at 415,000 miles. I just now had a turbo go bad, a bad glow plug, a water pumping weeping, and a valve cover cracked & leaking. Preventively we replaced some brittle hoses seal sensor & pigtail.

$1,008 turbo
495 water pump
170 tube
164 valve cover
103 glow plug

Plus gaskets etc & labor.

On the previous motor the water pump went at about 350,000, glow plug prior to that. It never had a turbo failure. Some pics for your viewing pleasure of the current state of affairs. :)

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2015 Ram 1500 Laramie Ecodiesel
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Beautiful truck Vern! I'm definitely impressed with how clean old engine looked inside after 400k miles!
I opened my old engine @63k miles, and it was completely sludged up, just unbelievable. Made me a "delete" believer!
 

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Yep, that looks more like 41,500 miles :D
41,500 with the stock tune would look much, much worse.

Beautiful truck Vern! I'm definitely impressed with how clean old engine looked inside after 400k miles!
I opened my old engine @63k miles, and it was completely sludged up, just unbelievable. Made me a "delete" believer!
One only has to believe in stage one tuning. Stage 2 deletes are completely optional.
 

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Beautiful truck Vern! I'm definitely impressed with how clean old engine looked inside after 400k miles!
I opened my old engine @63k miles, and it was completely sludged up, just unbelievable. Made me a "delete" believer!
I agree with Bounty. The only time I would consider deleting again (if I had another truck) is if the emissions equipment failed and I was out of warranty. Of course there is that peace of mind that you have removed another (or several) points of failure that can leave you stranded. I have a Mercedes Sprinter that is also deleted, because the emissions equipment started failing, and no parts were available. Dealer wanted 2300 to repair it. Delete tune and parts were about $1500. So we went that route.

My dads Ecodiesel is GDE hot tuned and runs great. 125k miles, and I expect it to go many more.

Thanks Vern for the write up. Nice to have this in one location that is easy to read and to the point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Gputah I just had the basic tune from 33k to 260k after which I moved to a full delete. I generally suggest the basic tune and then upgrading if and when you need to due to a an emissions part failure.

Salvage yards parts locator. Super helpful in keeping an older truck running cost effectively.

 
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
So shortly after having the above work completed including replacing the glow plug. I started having coolant loss. I first thought it just burped the system. Then I realized nope and could find no leaks and have no EGR cooler to leak so.. Houston we have a problem. My concern was has it pushed a head gasket like my first motor.

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Problem confirmed. Heads have to come off. 😳
Hydrocarbons from combustion getting into coolant.


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Did the head crack start at the new glow plug install? Looks that way to me.

Cracked piston also. Yep she is now toast. She will need a new motor cause I can’t sell or trade this truck for anything substantial. Plus the rest of the truck mechanically; transmission, rear, transfer, AC brakes suspension etc is on point.

Thing is did the tech over tighten the glow plug and cause this? Does it matter as in could the dealership cover it? Are they insured for that kind of thing? Things I’m going to have to find out.

The good news? Look at this 423,000 miles never been cleaned intake. What do you know perhaps turning off the government mandated EGR is a good thing. Maybe we should make the EPA liable for these truck fires instead of the Mfgr.

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You should tell if the crack starts on the other side of the head at the threads of the glow plug, then YES it was over torqued.
 

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I just now realized that it's also cracked only between the intake valves via the glow plug on that other cylinder ... I've never seen a head crack ONLY inbetween the intakes. Yes, number 1 suspect..over torqued the glow plugs...I bet you a $1 that they were put in with an impact.
 

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Maybe we will see on engine number 3, but seems somewhat consistent… engine number one dies to head issues at 371k. Engine number two lost to head issues at 415k. For as hard as you work it, that may be the limit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
423,000 perhaps it was killed by impact over torque but your point is still valid. James is at 452,000 miles and will likely stay the high mileage motor champ for I will make this the back up truck long before that.
 
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423k and perhaps it was killed by impact over torque but your point is still valid. James is at 452k and will likely stay the high mileage motor champ for I will make this the back up truck long before that.
Are you going to go with a 2500 or a newer 2020+ ecodiesel?
 
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