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For whatever reason, it seems common, at least on the early production EcoDiesels, for them to either come out of the factory with not enough oil or they are burning oil. If I were you, I would take it to the dealer and have them document it and top it off. It's hard to see your fill level, but it appears to be at the 'add mark'. I'll check mine today. I'm only at 130 miles on the odometer, but that will give me a better indication of what is happening.
Thank you


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Discussion Starter #303
I'll check mine today. I'm only at 130 miles on the odometer, but that will give me a better indication of what is happening.
I made a mistake. I now have 165 miles on the truck. I checked the dipstick and I'm at the full mark. I'll keep an eye out and see if the oil level drops. Right now, I only drive the truck about once every 3 weeks or so.
 

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Nope. I wouldn't.

These engines are problematic and have a poor track record. And, they are many thousands of dollars to rebuild or replace. WHY anybody would chance warranty over a particular brand of oil is beyond me. I'll stick with the $7/quart stuff that carries the spec on the bottle and will have no problems.
Where are you coming up with these engines are problematic and have a poor track record. The gen-3 engines are still fairly new and shouldn't be compared to the gen-2 engines at this point. Just because your engine had an oil leak doesn't make all gen-3 engines problematic. Please show us the data supporting your claim?
 

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Discussion Starter #305
Where are you coming up with these engines are problematic and have a poor track record. The gen-3 engines are still fairly new and shouldn't be compared to the gen-2 engines at this point. Just because your engine had an oil leak doesn't make all gen-3 engines problematic. Please show us the data supporting your claim?
WXman is on quite a few forums. I know this because I see him! It is true that there are several gen III EcoDiesels that have a manufacturing issue that has caused an oil leak. With that said, FCA has discovered the problem and have parts available to repair the leak. This isn't a design issue, but it is a manufacturing issue with certain engines. Overall, there isn't any major problems or concerns.
 
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Hi Folks,
Before everyone gets completely up in arms please know that I'm asking a legitimate question based on printed material from FCA and not trying to start anything and that I read ALL 16 pages of this thread before asking so if I missed it I apologize in advance:

The 2020 1500 Owners Manual states "We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar that meets FCA Material Standard MS-12991 and the API SN engine oil category is required."

Given the fact that 4,000 lawyers probably reviewed that before it was put into print/digital form I find it interesting that they recommend FCA MS-12991 but only require API SN. That being the case it would seem that any oil that meets API SN meets the minimum requirements. They've worded it in an interesting fashion using and in the middle of that sentence but it isn't saying MS-12991 and API SN are required. It's saying we recommend MS-12991 and require API SN.

My 2021 is on order but I'm interested to know why everyone is so worried about MS-12991 when it isn't even a requirement from FCA. Words are important. Oil changes, according to the manual, are required every 10,000 miles so if you skip that and have a problem they can say "sorry but you didn't follow the required maintenance" and you're out of luck. If it said oil changes were only recommended every 10k then that would be a different thing entirely. I'm not saying I won't buy the MS-12991 but it's a pretty major difference between required and recommended. Recommended means "we have a marketing agreement with the parent company that makes this and we suggest you use it".
 

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Discussion Starter #307
The 2020 1500 Owners Manual states "We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar that meets FCA Material Standard MS-12991 and the API SN engine oil category is required."
Automotive language has always been a little dicey when it comes to interpretation. To maintain warranty, it's always advised to follow OE recommendations. When you go outside of those recommendations, you're essentially making decisions at your own risk. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act does give you some protection, though.
 

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Automotive language has always been a little dicey when it comes to interpretation. To maintain warranty, it's always advised to follow OE recommendations. When you go outside of those recommendations, you're essentially making decisions at your own risk. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act does give you some protection, though.
'

No to split hairs but if you go outside the manufacturer's requirements you could void your warranty. Their recommendations are a different matter entirely.
Again - not trying to be argumentative but I'm the kind of person who likes to understand all the details of how this stuff works and attack every question critically from all possible viewpoints.

Also - Thanks for your work developing and maintaining this list in the original post. It's a ton of great information.
 

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Discussion Starter #309
No to split hairs but if you go outside the manufacturer's requirements you could void your warranty. Their recommendations are a different matter entirely.
Again - not trying to be argumentative but I'm the kind of person who likes to understand all the details of how this stuff works and attack every question critically from all possible viewpoints.
You are giving too much credence to the owner's manual written language. The owner's manual is not the be-all and end-all. As a matter of fact, the owner's manual has flawed and/or outdated information. Let me give you an example:

Quoted from WXman:
Page 369 states, "The manufacturer recommends engine oils that meet the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-10902, and that are API CJ-4 certified." On page 370 I read, "We recommend you use 5W40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required." Then on page 424 it states, "We recommend you use 5W40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar or Pennzoil Platinumn Euro that meets FCA Material Standard MS-12991 and the API SN engine oil category is required."

Also - Thanks for your work developing and maintaining this list in the original post. It's a ton of great information.
Thank you. I had a lot of help.
 

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First time in my life I've been excited about a freaking oil change...........swapped out the factory stuff (3700 miles) and filter for the rec'd Amsoil oil. Anxious to see how it does. I've got a sample of the factory oil to send to Oil Analyzers, and when I get it back I'll share it with you guys and you can critique the results. Thanks for a most informative thread.
 

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First time in my life I've been excited about a freaking oil change...........swapped out the factory stuff (3700 miles) and filter for the rec'd Amsoil oil. Anxious to see how it does. I've got a sample of the factory oil to send to Oil Analyzers, and when I get it back I'll share it with you guys and you can critique the results. Thanks for a most informative thread.
Cool. Which Exact Amsoil did you go with? There are a couple of them. Did it have a MS-12991 label on it? Amsoil is my choice right now for my first oil change.


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Discussion Starter #312
Cool. Which Exact Amsoil did you go with? There are a couple of them. Did it have a MS-12991 label on it? Amsoil is my choice right now for my first oil change.
There's only one recommendation from Amsoil and that would be Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-40 Classic ESP Synthetic (EFM). And no, it won't have the MS-12991 on the label.
 
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I sent a virgin oil sample of Motul 8100 X-Cess Gen2 5w40 out for a baseline sample for reference down the road. Oil Analyzers Inc gave me back a report with no base number, and when I followed up, they said the tech ran it incorrectly: " In this instance it appears that they picked the wrong testing for this application and oil."
So then they send me a second report with a TBN of 8.4..... It's advertised at 10.2... I find their report extremely questionable

Also attached is my analysis of the factory oil.
I'll be back later to discuss but wanted to get them up a while since I got them back last week. I'll repost as pics instead of PDF later.

Factory Oil: 1,205 miles
87716



Motul Virgin sample Report 1
87717


Motul Virgin Sample Report 2
87718
 

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How many miles/hours were on the factory oil?
1,205 Miles on factory oil
It was at the bottom of the dipstick, just touching the hash mark at best. I took pics of it and pics of doing the oil change to put in a thread.

I fixed the post too to show the pics of the oil reports.
 

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Discussion Starter #316
1,205 Miles on factory oil
It was at the bottom of the dipstick, just touching the hash mark at best. I took pics of it and pics of doing the oil change to put in a thread.
Thanks for clarifying. My oil level was at the full mark when I checked it at 165 miles. I will keep watching the level.

I fixed the post too to show the pics of the oil reports.
I printed them off before you scratched out your address and phone number. ;)
 

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Thanks for clarifying. My oil level was at the full mark when I checked it at 165 miles. I will keep watching the level.



I printed them off before you scratched out your address and phone number. ;)
def keep an eye on it. atleast the factory oil looks dirty with almost no miles on it. LOL. That dipstick is hard to read. The brand new motul is near impossible to read off the stick.

And 😆. You're welcome to visit. See what that girl will do on a long road trip! I've been hitting over 30mpg on the interstate with 3.92s. Towed 5k # and averaged 22mpg on the interstate. And i hand calculate my mileage but the on board computer is accurate in my truck. Super happy with the truck. I'll have to put a thread up eventually of my review so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #318
def keep an eye on it. atleast the factory oil looks dirty with almost no miles on it. LOL. That dipstick is hard to read. The brand new motul is near impossible to read off the stick.
I keep daily driving my 2015 Ram EcoDiesel, so I haven't touched the 2020 Ram EcoDiesel in about a month. I need to take it out this weekend and put fresh fuel in the truck.

And 😆. You're welcome to visit. See what that girl will do on a long road trip! I've been hitting over 30mpg on the interstate with 3.92s. Towed 5k # and averaged 22mpg on the interstate.
I'll eventually make my way to Pennsylvania. Our goal is to hike/climb the tallest highpoint in each of the lower 48 states. So far, we've pulled this camper through the following states:

Nevada, California, Arizona, Utah, Colorado, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Missouri, Arkansas, Tennessee, Georgia, Louisiana, Florida, Alabama, and Mississippi.


 
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I'll eventually make my way to Pennsylvania. Our goal is to hike/climb the tallest highpoint in each of the lower 48 states. So far, we've pulled this camper through the following states:

Nevada, California, Arizona, Utah, Colorado, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Missouri, Arkansas, Tennessee, Georgia, Louisiana, Florida, Alabama, and Mississippi.


That's awesome. Great time with the family!

here's what I've used it for so far:
87721

87722


Coolant Temps live in the 21X's
Trans 180-190s
Oil 220s

Speaking of oil and the oil change, i wonder if OhioTech can get the oil pan torque spec on the 3rd gen. My dealership never called me back.
 

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