[howie12]

Well my Amsoil is getting tired at 15k probably going to change it around 17k and go to an older designed oil since im running mexico emissions, wear metals still look great though. View attachment 85924

Help me understand why you say it is tired. The additive levels look fine and the silicon levels are not out of line given the significantly higher mileage than previous changes. Base number seems good for a while yet. Seems to me a different oil is unlikely to affect silicon. Presume you have looked at the air filter and the mice haven't eaten off the pleats like they did on mine in its early life.

Also I don't understand what 'mexican emissions' means and why an older formulation oil is suitable. I guess you are saying you have nothing to contaminate with heavy metals and ash so why not have an oil with more of them?

 

[Brokedownbutgood]

Help me understand why you say it is tired. The additive levels look fine and the silicon levels are not out of line given the significantly higher mileage than previous changes. Base number seems good for a while yet. Seems to me a different oil is unlikely to affect silicon. Presume you have looked at the air filter and the mice haven't eaten off the pleats like they did on mine in its early life.

Also I don't understand what 'mexican emissions' means and why an older formulation oil is suitable. I guess you are saying you have nothing to contaminate with heavy metals and ash so why not have an oil with more of them?

The tbn is at 2.7 which is why I say the oil is tired, if the tbn gets to low the oil well become acidic. The silicon levels well thats been an on going battle ever since I got my turbo replaced. The mexico emissions statement just means the truck is tuned and has most of the emissions equipment removed.

The older formulation statement is because I dont need an oil focused on keeping the doc,dpf,egr, scr, etc happy and instead worry about its orginal purpose engine protection.

 

[howie12]

Got it. My only comment is, as I understand it, any TBN above 0 is not acidic and a TBN of 1 is set as a normal minimum to allow a bit of space. As I expect you know it is primarily the sulfur in the fuel that consumes the original TBN(ie creates some acid) and as the US has lowered its maximum sulfur allowance the original TBN of diesel oils here have gone down. I recall that some major oil companies marketed a TBN 12 or greater lubeoil for use in diesel engines in the Africa mideast part of the world when the diesel fuels there were very high sulfur. In those days we used total fuel consumed as the basis for oil change intervals in the numerous Cat and Cummins diesel generation stations we had (the load varied considerably due to AC load by season)

Do you know what the out of the bottle TBN for the Amsoil you are using is?

Thanks for the reply and all the best,

 

[Brokedownbutgood]

The tbn of Amsoil deo starts at 10.1 they do have a premium protection oil that starts with a 12 tbn for older none dpf equipped engines.

 

[shawclan5]

Hot Shots has a 'TBN Booster' and personally never used so I could not recommend. In all of my UOA for the 4 different oils used have noticed overall oil still great and BS always suggest running longer however the TBN below 2 is enough for me to change T6/Delo 5w40 ay 12k.

Do either of you suggest a TBN Booster or is 12k on Delo and 20k on Amsoil pretty much enough is enough?

Simply curious. I have habitually added FR3 to the oil and EDT to the fuel...she has been impressive...

 

[Brokedownbutgood]

Personally I cant justify buying a tbn booster for over $30 just to by some time But if everything else tests perfect then maybe. Im just going to change the oil but im still figuring out what oil im going to use this time. It should also be noted ive been trying different fuel additives including 2 stroke of various amounts which might have caused the tbn get depleted quicker than normal as well.

 

[shawclan5]

For the money and UOA of 4 different oils Delo 5w40 is my first choice vs Amsoil 0w40. T6 is fine however at my Walmart Delo 10qt is $49. UOA vs T6 superior but statistically insignificant.

Really want to run the Valvoline Blue and get a UOA however solving my curiosity is not worth the extra $25 for the oil...LmAo.

 

[Brokedownbutgood]

For the money and UOA of 4 different oils Delo 5w40 is my first choice vs Amsoil 0w40. T6 is fine however at my Walmart Delo 10qt is $49. UOA vs T6 superior but statistically insignificant.

Really want to run the Valvoline Blue and get a UOA however solving my curiosity is not worth the extra $25 for the oil...LmAo.

I dont shop at walmart so it doesnt matter what oil costs there lol. But I do get valvoline for a big discount so I might try that this go. Probably going to step up to 15W-40 as well just to see how it effects oil pressure.

 

[shawclan5]

If I was totally deleted I would go 15w40 too. Especially here in Florida.

 

[howie12]

If I was totally deleted I would go 15w40 too. Especially here in Florida.

Ok, my friend you are changing your tune, or my mind is failing. Weren't you arguing a year or three ago that you bought 0w-40 rather than 5 w-40 in florida for the better start up lubrication at 60 deg F and resultant economy? And now you are talking 15w-40????

Ref a TBN booster I think you have it correct, 15 or 20,000 miles on an oil change and a single filter is enough. I did go up to 25,000 miles with my old 4 litre Grand Caravan V-6 gas and it tested fine but even with the smaller sump I thought it was OK.

I do hate to waste and discard oil that isn't fully used up.

All the best,

 

[shawclan5]

Ok, my friend you are changing your tune, or my mind is failing. Weren't you arguing a year or three ago that you bought 0w-40 rather than 5 w-40 in florida for the better start up lubrication at 60 deg F and resultant economy? And now you are talking 15w-40????

Ref a TBN booster I think you have it correct, 15 or 20,000 miles on an oil change and a single filter is enough. I did go up to 25,000 miles with my old 4 litre Grand Caravan V-6 gas and it tested fine but even with the smaller sump I thought it was OK.

I do hate to waste and discard oil that isn't fully used up.

All the best,

The test for 0w do show better MPG...the thinner the oil the better for MPG. My Camry Hybrid (company car) runs 0w16 here in FL. Running the 0w40 after 40k in the end didn't seem produce a noticible increase in MPG. I do run 0w30 in the Enclave, and 0w20 in the F150. IMO Delo 5w40 remains the best bang for the buck in my ED.

I do believe it circulates faster on cold start up. As for 15w40...that is IF I was fully deleted which hopefully never will be. It is my understanding a fully deleted engine reverts back to an 'old world' diesel like my 7.3

I would be willing to run a 15w40 that meets the specs and do a UOA afterwards, probably would let idle longer than my 15 seconds now though. What made 15w40 a possibly changing my mind was the UOA post here with 15w40 (Savage Patch?) I try to post informed opinions however always willing to change them as new information/data comes in.

Curious the results...and agree 100% with the 'wasting good oil' from a Green aspect. SMH on those who change at 7,500 and below however to each their own. BTW...what is your overall MPG in the new truck. Trying to convince my dad to consider that option for 2021 however...not sure I can pry him out of his 15' ED. At 80 he should by a new truck every year .

 

[howie12]

The test for 0w do show better MPG...the thinner the oil the better for MPG. My Camry Hybrid (company car) runs 0w16 here in FL. Running the 0w40 after 40k in the end didn't seem produce a noticible increase in MPG. I do run 0w30 in the Enclave, and 0w20 in the F150. IMO Delo 5w40 remains the best bang for the buck in my ED.

I do believe it circulates faster on cold start up. As for 15w40...that is IF I was fully deleted which hopefully never will be. It is my understanding a fully deleted engine reverts back to an 'old world' diesel like my 7.3

I would be willing to run a 15w40 that meets the specs and do a UOA afterwards, probably would let idle longer than my 15 seconds now though. What made 15w40 a possibly changing my mind was the UOA post here with 15w40 (Savage Patch?) I try to post informed opinions however always willing to change them as new information/data comes in.

Curious the results...and agree 100% with the 'wasting good oil' from a Green aspect. SMH on those who change at 7,500 and below however to each their own. BTW...what is your overall MPG in the new truck. Trying to convince my dad to consider that option for 2021 however...not sure I can pry him out of his 15' ED. At 80 he should by a new truck every year .

Since the Blizzak Snow tires have been off and it is warmer, but not yet really warm(30-50 degrees) I have averaged 22.8 mpg, calculated, over a 520 mile period. Should get to a reliable 23 for the summer, we'll see. I am still very happy with the choice of the Pentastar.

 

[SavagePatch]

If I was totally deleted I would go 15w40 too. Especially here in Florida.

I have stock emissions and run 15w40 during the warmer months. About to do an oil change with Valvoline Heavy Duty Maxlife 15w40 Synthetic Blend.

Here's my previous UOA:

 

[SavagePatch]

If I was totally deleted I would go 15w40 too. Especially here in Florida.

I have stock emissions and run 15w40 during the warmer months. About to do an oil change with Valvoline Heavy Duty Maxlife 15w40 Synthetic Blend.

Here's my previous UOA:
View attachment 86022

 

[shawclan5]

I have stock emissions and run 15w40 during the warmer months. About to do an oil change with Valvoline Heavy Duty Maxlife 15w40 Synthetic Blend.

Here's my previous UOA:
View attachment 86022

Another UOA that reaffirms why I would NOT use the Mobile 1. Is the very bottom number TBN?

Redline seems to have more Moly.

 

[Gputah]

Ok, finally found this thread.... I hijacked another one by accident because I wasn't paying attention. This report has my brain going a bit crazy....

So, I got my report back from Blackstone today. The dealer replaced my stock oil cooler as it was leaking and mixing a tiny bit of oil in my coolant. That issues is all cleared up, but it appears some of the coolant got into the oil either from a new issue, or there was some in it from the oil cooler issue... Also it looks like I'm gonna be having some bearings fail. Let me know your thoughts on this one. Has me a little concerned. Also, it mentions Delo Oil. I forgot the dealer replaced the oil cooler and so the oil in the truck is what they put in it, not the Chevron Delo I said was in there... Think the dealer put the wrong oil in it?

I tow pretty heavy, I'm glad I didn't wait to do the oil change. this one, at 6200 miles, is the soonest oil change I've done, but I've had great reports at 10k intervals.

Just so everyone is clear, I added HotShots Stiction eliminator in this oil. So, the oil tested had that additive, plus it was the oil change immediately following the stock oil cooler replacement.

I spoke to a shop in Utah that worked directly with King Bearings to get them to produce the bearings that are now available for the Ecodiesels. They are finishing up the first ecodiesel rebuild in the state now with those bearings. They can rebuild my engine for about $10k ( $7k if I bring them just the motor), using the stronger King Bearings, stronger internals, head studs etc. I'm going to see what the report says at 5k miles and decide what I want to do. Unless she explodes before then. Let me know your thoughts on this one.

 

[Bat Koce]

Are those King bearings available for our trucks? I am getting them if they are.

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[Brokedownbutgood]

Are those King bearings available for our trucks? I am getting them if they are.

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The main bearings are ready last I heard there still working on rod bearings.

 

[Gputah]

The main bearings are ready last I heard there still working on rod bearings.

Are those King bearings available for our trucks? I am getting them if they are.

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Here is a link to them. They are selling them on eBay as well as other locations/dealers.

EXF

The description of my page

www.king-catalog.com

 

[Bat Koce]

Thank you guys! I think our failures mostly start at the rod bearings. Right?


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