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Discussion Starter #1
Which one are you guys changing your oil by. The center EVIC display always tell me to change my oil around 8600 miles. The owners manual states oil changes can be done at 10k miles if the EVIC display do not tell you to change the oil,I have never been able to go to 10k miles be the in display tells me to change the oil. So I would like to know which one are most of the people on this forum changing their oil by.
 

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Evic will read 10k depending on your driving habits. I dont take my oil changes out past 5k. If you're under warranty I'd do it by evic, if not do whatever you're comfortable with

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while we are on the subject, what is typical on a diesel oil change? Just oil and filter or is there other items to check/change?
pjordan4477 , I don't know if you are already familiar with the 15 minutes brfore restart procedure ...

here is a step by step I got on the site , and the 15 minutes wait instruction.

"" *** LET IT DRAIN "05" MINUTES ( finally in TSB early 2017)
==>""let it drain 5 minutes or until it stops dripping "" <==
------------------------------------------------------------------
As of july 2016 = 5W40 Rotella T6
note to self :: Mopar FILTER = better
-------------------------------------
- small ride to warm up the oil , (look at dash display to know temp).
- if you have push start button , leave keys away from the area.
- remove big plastic cover over the engine ==>(optional)
- socket 1-1/16 for oil filter Cap
- **FIRST** loosen cartouche completely ,remove filter and
cartridge assembly, turning it upside down
and clean surrounding area .
- **SECOND** get filter out of the cap ,it is clipped in there,
the new one WILL be clipped in too, it will rotate
but it will stay clipped in there, before clipping
*** new filter in the cap , notice the exact groove where the big rubber O-ring IS ,
outside of plastic cap, and remove big O ring ,
replace with the new one provided with each new oil filter , now clip new
filter in the cap. put oil on the small AND Big O rings .
*** DON'T screw it in place just yet

- **THIRD** remove Oil " Filler Cap ", lift dipstick too.
- go under truck , 13mm socket , remove drain plug ,let it drain minimum 5 minutes ,
"or until it stops dripping "
- reinstall filter/cartridge while waiting for oil to drain ,
- you can clean big plastic engine cover to kill time if you are quick ...
- after the draining .put the 13mm bolt back on , ((33 lb/ft (45N/m ) torque drain plug))
- fill with 10 liters of Rotella T6 5W40 oil , put cap back on
push dipstick in proper position , ALMOST DONE ,
......................................................................................
***- the 15 minutes wait ,after filling up , BEFORE STARTING ENGINE is
now official ..seems to be legit as of TSB Feb.7 2017
post # 42 by brokendownbutgood
https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/ram-1500-diesel-general-discussion/59580-5w40-synthetic-blend-3.html#post902036
tsb posted in this thread too , post # 48:
https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/ram-1500-diesel-maintenance/62636-oil-change-oops-3.html#post947926
.....................................................................................
Next ; don't want to dirty the seats so clean up a little ,
next step is inside the cab to reset oil life in dash :
(( truck door may need to be closed ,( mentioned but not verified ). ))
- in dash scroll to see where oil life screen takes whole screen ( batt,tires,"oil life" )
- hold > arrow until you see the reset prompt ,
- take it to OK
- click when you are at OK ( twice ) and you should get oil life 100% .



by howie : Oil life is now reset.
I did not interpret the reset instructions correctly.
First you push and hold > to reset. Then the confirm screen comes up.
DO NOT GO DIRECT TO PUSH > TO CONFIRM> YOU MUST FIRST SCROLL THE SCREEN
UP OR DOWN TO GET THE OK IN THE CENTER WINDOW THEN PUSH > TO CONFIRM

All Done !!
============================================== . ""
 

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pjordan4477 , I don't know if you are already familiar with the 15 minutes brfore restart procedure ...

here is a step by step I got on the site , and the 15 minutes wait instruction.

"" *** LET IT DRAIN "05" MINUTES ( finally in TSB early 2017)
==>""let it drain 5 minutes or until it stops dripping "" <==
------------------------------------------------------------------
As of july 2016 = 5W40 Rotella T6
note to self :: Mopar FILTER = better
-------------------------------------
- small ride to warm up the oil , (look at dash display to know temp).
- if you have push start button , leave keys away from the area.
- remove big plastic cover over the engine ==>(optional)
- socket 1-1/16 for oil filter Cap
- **FIRST** loosen cartouche completely ,remove filter and
cartridge assembly, turning it upside down
and clean surrounding area .
- **SECOND** get filter out of the cap ,it is clipped in there,
the new one WILL be clipped in too, it will rotate
but it will stay clipped in there, before clipping
*** new filter in the cap , notice the exact groove where the big rubber O-ring IS ,
outside of plastic cap, and remove big O ring ,
replace with the new one provided with each new oil filter , now clip new
filter in the cap. put oil on the small AND Big O rings .
*** DON'T screw it in place just yet

- **THIRD** remove Oil " Filler Cap ", lift dipstick too.
- go under truck , 13mm socket , remove drain plug ,let it drain minimum 5 minutes ,
"or until it stops dripping "
- reinstall filter/cartridge while waiting for oil to drain ,
- you can clean big plastic engine cover to kill time if you are quick ...
- after the draining .put the 13mm bolt back on , ((33 lb/ft (45N/m ) torque drain plug))
- fill with 10 liters of Rotella T6 5W40 oil , put cap back on
push dipstick in proper position , ALMOST DONE ,
......................................................................................
***- the 15 minutes wait ,after filling up , BEFORE STARTING ENGINE is
now official ..seems to be legit as of TSB Feb.7 2017
post # 42 by brokendownbutgood
https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/ram-1500-diesel-general-discussion/59580-5w40-synthetic-blend-3.html#post902036
tsb posted in this thread too , post # 48:
https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/ram-1500-diesel-maintenance/62636-oil-change-oops-3.html#post947926
.....................................................................................
Next ; don't want to dirty the seats so clean up a little ,
next step is inside the cab to reset oil life in dash :
(( truck door may need to be closed ,( mentioned but not verified ). ))
- in dash scroll to see where oil life screen takes whole screen ( batt,tires,"oil life" )
- hold > arrow until you see the reset prompt ,
- take it to OK
- click when you are at OK ( twice ) and you should get oil life 100% .



by howie : Oil life is now reset.
I did not interpret the reset instructions correctly.
First you push and hold > to reset. Then the confirm screen comes up.
DO NOT GO DIRECT TO PUSH > TO CONFIRM> YOU MUST FIRST SCROLL THE SCREEN
UP OR DOWN TO GET THE OK IN THE CENTER WINDOW THEN PUSH > TO CONFIRM

All Done !!
============================================== . ""
I change my oil at full operating temp. Have a half a 5 gallon bucket by the time I get the filter changed. Dump new oil in, clean up the little mess, start the truck and go. 15 mins doesnt seem to be an issue although by the time I clean up it may be close. I dont usually spend more than 15 or 20 mins to change it.

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I always did around 10,000 miles for the oil changes. After one with over 90,000 miles on the truck, I sent off an oil sample to Blackstone. They suggested that I GO LONGER on the oil. Their assessment of the additive package condition at 10K was I was changing too early. They actually talked of going 12,000 miles or a little more between oil changes.

I know that some others did the same with oil testing and have gone up to 15,000 miles. Even then the oil was still good for the motor.

It's your money, time and effort. Some can't sleep for fear of violating service recommendations. Others grew up with 3,000 mile oil changes and fear anything else. Many learn the facts about oil and engines today and do not live in the old fears. Make you own informed decision.
 

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I change my oil at full operating temp. Have a half a 5 gallon bucket by the time I get the filter changed. Dump new oil in, clean up the little mess, start the truck and go. 15 mins doesnt seem to be an issue although by the time I clean up it may be close. I dont usually spend more than 15 or 20 mins to change it.

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I can attest, I thought the waiting to start after filling with oil was bs and I have several posts on here somewhere stating it. You can hear the oil hit the pan when you start pouring it in, it doesn't take long, BUT! I did notice if I start the truck right after filling with oil it will knock a time or two till it builds oil pressure, if I wait the 15-30 minutes or whatever the TSB recommends to wait it does not knock on startup. Who knows how or why, but I don't like knocking so I now wait.
 

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I can attest, I thought the waiting to start after filling with oil was bs and I have several posts on here somewhere stating it. You can hear the oil hit the pan when you start pouring it in, it doesn't take long, BUT! I did notice if I start the truck right after filling with oil it will knock a time or two till it builds oil pressure, if I wait the 15-30 minutes or whatever the TSB recommends to wait it does not knock on startup. Who knows how or why, but I don't like knocking so I now wait.
Like I said, by the time I clean up it may be close to that time but with the engine still at least 180 degrees or hotter by the time the new oil is poured in, maybe it thins it and it gets there faster? I also put mine on ramps. Havent heard any abnormal noise so far, knock on wood.

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I do mine at 8000km regardless of what EVIC says... Its usually at about the halfway mark as I believe its set for 16,000km (10,000 miles). Just the way I have always been with my oil changes :)
 

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Thanks Kazimodo. Good stuff. I'd add the following:
Next oil change install a Fumoto oil drain valve and never have a drop, spill, splatter again. Get the one with the nipple so you can easily place a drain tube from the valve to your dirty oil container. This one: https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f106n.html
I'm a fan of dumping in a can of "Seafoam" into the crank case prior to changing the oil. Loosens up sludge, etc. https://seafoamsales.com/knowledge-base/how-to-use-sea-foam-in-oil/
I can't think of a reason not to begin draining oil prior to changing the filter. Just takes longer if you begin with the filter.
I don't believe lifting the dipstick does any good since you are removing the oil filler cap allowing air to enter the crank case.
I also check the oil level after the 15 min wait and start, then stop engine, instead of just dumping in 10 quarts. I believe the book says 10.5 quarts with a filter change.
If you have all your tools, oil, filter, drain container, and beer at the ready it should take no more than 15 minutes including drinking a beer.
Also, if you have access to a lift, good for you. If not, I much prefer ramps to jacks. Easy and safe. It also lowers the back of the crank case where the drain hole is located for a more complete drain.
The Fumoto valve makes changing oil pleasurable instead of a chore.
Thanks to the VM Motori engineers for putting the oil filter on top of the engine. Stupid US engineers just want to make life difficult!
 

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I would never rely on the EVIC or ever go 10,000 miles on an oil change. There are many variables to each individuals driving habits. Short term stop go driving has always been a culprit to cause stress on motor oil. Considered extreme driving conditions. Longer term highway driving by far is less stress full on today’s motor oils. Short term not allowing proper engine warm up plays havoc. That applies to both today’s modern gas engines and particularly today’s modern diesal engines. Though oils today have come along way over the years they still get contaminated. Short term driving With diesels (and gas engines) you have fuel dilution, soot that is created, and condensation. All play a major factor in the breaking down of motor oil. Heat is another enemy of oil. Combined that with contamination and you loose the protective properties and the outcome is your oil actually shears out and looses its viscosity and wear protection. Condensation is another factor and creates acids. Acids wear on the metal parts of an engine. This is why it is critical to make sure you are using a quality diesal oil that has the proper TBN number.
A simple analogy but effective is to think of your crankcase of your vehicle as a toilet bowl. The longer you continue to put contaminates in it and prolong the flushing it continues to further pollute the water. Your crank case is the same! The more you pollute your motor oil the more It looses its protective properties and thus causes engine wear on vital parts of your engine. Examples: cam shaft wear, piston scuffing, from silicates (soot) etc. Oil is the life blood of your engine. So keep it clean. Though manufacturers will tell you 10,000 mile oil changes it is all based on your driving habits. If you just change your oil at least twice a year you will hopefully insure longevity of your expensive ECO DIESAL. And we all know their are issues with this engine!&#55357;&#56841;
 

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10 liters or 10 quarts?

So it's just oil and oil filter, nothing else?

Is there anything electric that turning the key to run but not starting it that may help with the knock or 15 minute wait? It doesn't make sense that waiting 15 minutes would lubricate all the cylinders from the pour in. Something else needs to be happening to get the oil where it goes. Hence my key to run thought.


Lastly, whats the fuel filter range?
 

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10 liters or 10 quarts?

So it's just oil and oil filter, nothing else?

Is there anything electric that turning the key to run but not starting it that may help with the knock or 15 minute wait? It doesn't make sense that waiting 15 minutes would lubricate all the cylinders from the pour in. Something else needs to be happening to get the oil where it goes. Hence my key to run thought.


Lastly, whats the fuel filter range?
10 Liters or 10.5 quarts. The engine has to turn to drive the oil pump, putting key on without cranking wont do it.
 

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I would never rely on the EVIC or ever go 10,000 miles on an oil change. There are many variables to each individuals driving habits. Short term stop go driving has always been a culprit to cause stress on motor oil. Considered extreme driving conditions. Longer term highway driving by far is less stress full on today’s motor oils. Short term not allowing proper engine warm up plays havoc. That applies to both today’s modern gas engines and particularly today’s modern diesal engines. Though oils today have come along way over the years they still get contaminated. Short term driving With diesels (and gas engines) you have fuel dilution, soot that is created, and condensation. All play a major factor in the breaking down of motor oil. Heat is another enemy of oil. Combined that with contamination and you loose the protective properties and the outcome is your oil actually shears out and looses its viscosity and wear protection. Condensation is another factor and creates acids. Acids wear on the metal parts of an engine. This is why it is critical to make sure you are using a quality diesal oil that has the proper TBN number.
A simple analogy but effective is to think of your crankcase of your vehicle as a toilet bowl. The longer you continue to put contaminates in it and prolong the flushing it continues to further pollute the water. Your crank case is the same! The more you pollute your motor oil the more It looses its protective properties and thus causes engine wear on vital parts of your engine. Examples: cam shaft wear, piston scuffing, from silicates (soot) etc. Oil is the life blood of your engine. So keep it clean. Though manufacturers will tell you 10,000 mile oil changes it is all based on your driving habits. If you just change your oil at least twice a year you will hopefully insure longevity of your expensive ECO DIESAL. And we all know their are issues with this engine!��
Im pretty sure all you just said the manufacturers know about. They recommend the 10,000 mile oil change with that in mind and knowing they have to warranty the motor for 100,000 miles on top of it.

Many people myself included have run 10,000 miles with the oil recommended by the manufacturer with oil analysis done and had good results. Im sure someone has, but I have yet to read an oil analysis that didn't indicate the 10,000 was too long. Many have increased the 10,000 mile change interval by a good bit and still have good results. You can change your oil whenever you want, but I believe it can be pretty wasteful. The manufacturers recommendation is probably a pretty good starting point.
 

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Im pretty sure all you just said the manufacturers know about. They recommend the 10,000 mile oil change with that in mind and knowing they have to warranty the motor for 100,000 miles on top of it.

Many people myself included have run 10,000 miles with the oil recommended by the manufacturer with oil analysis done and had good results. Im sure someone has, but I have yet to read an oil analysis that didn't indicate the 10,000 was too long. Many have increased the 10,000 mile change interval by a good bit and still have good results. You can change your oil whenever you want, but I believe it can be pretty wasteful. The manufacturers recommendation is probably a pretty good starting point.
We worked with these manufacturers. I turned in many, many, oil samples for various customers representing all the majors both gas and diesal. Wasteful in what since? Majority of used oil is recycled and much used as bunker oil, or at one time cleansed and resold. For me I’m hoping to prolong this engines life.
 

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10 liters or 10 quarts?

So it's just oil and oil filter, nothing else?

Is there anything electric that turning the key to run but not starting it that may help with the knock or 15 minute wait? It doesn't make sense that waiting 15 minutes would lubricate all the cylinders from the pour in. Something else needs to be happening to get the oil where it goes. Hence my key to run thought.


Lastly, whats the fuel filter range?
There is a screen on the oil pickup, then to the oil pump, which is usually immersed in the oil pan and oil. I believe that air pockets may hinder the new oil to refill the pump as it flows in. Giving things a bit of time allows those air pockets to bleed out, thus giving the mechanically driven oil pump something to pump immediately.
 

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I would never rely on the EVIC or ever go 10,000 miles on an oil change. There are many variables to each individuals driving habits. Short term stop go driving has always been a culprit to cause stress on motor oil. Considered extreme driving conditions. Longer term highway driving by far is less stress full on today’s motor oils. Short term not allowing proper engine warm up plays havoc. That applies to both today’s modern gas engines and particularly today’s modern diesal engines. Though oils today have come along way over the years they still get contaminated. Short term driving With diesels (and gas engines) you have fuel dilution, soot that is created, and condensation. All play a major factor in the breaking down of motor oil. Heat is another enemy of oil. Combined that with contamination and you loose the protective properties and the outcome is your oil actually shears out and looses its viscosity and wear protection. Condensation is another factor and creates acids. Acids wear on the metal parts of an engine. This is why it is critical to make sure you are using a quality diesal oil that has the proper TBN number.
A simple analogy but effective is to think of your crankcase of your vehicle as a toilet bowl. The longer you continue to put contaminates in it and prolong the flushing it continues to further pollute the water. Your crank case is the same! The more you pollute your motor oil the more It looses its protective properties and thus causes engine wear on vital parts of your engine. Examples: cam shaft wear, piston scuffing, from silicates (soot) etc. Oil is the life blood of your engine. So keep it clean. Though manufacturers will tell you 10,000 mile oil changes it is all based on your driving habits. If you just change your oil at least twice a year you will hopefully insure longevity of your expensive ECO DIESAL. And we all know their are issues with this engine!
My 17 factors all that in and shortens the life on the meter. Drastically if you make nothing but short trips.

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We worked with these manufacturers. I turned in many, many, oil samples for various customers representing all the majors both gas and diesal. Wasteful in what since? Majority of used oil is recycled and much used as bunker oil, or at one time cleansed and resold. For me I’m hoping to prolong this engines life.
My last oil sample was taken between 9000-10000 miles. It came back with very low wear metals, no issues with contaminants and they suggested the oil was fine and to run longer on it. My use does get the oil up to temp most drives, but I drive 20-30 miles one way mixed, its not all hwy.

If the oil is perfectly fine at 10,000 miles I consider changing it at 5,000 to be wasteful.
 
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