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Changed my oil last night (Rotella and installed a Fumoto drain valve - Oh, and also installed a GDE tune) . . . bought the truck used at 21,602 miles and I was told the (Ford) dealer changed it but I just felt better doing its myself.

So, the first thing I noted was that the old filter housing was on there very tight. It was tightened down all the way. Took a while to get it off with my ratchet/socket. My new Mopar oil filter had a torque spec stamped on the top of 25 lbs/ft of torque. My old school ways taught me to hand install an oil filter to get the threads right then hand tighten and then a half turn or so of tightening with a filter wrench, etc. Well, my torque wrench would not fit at any kind of angle to get a reading on it, so I just used my ratchet/socket to tighten it back down as I had found it.

But I'm a little spooked by how tight that thing is on our truck.

Ran it last night and saw nothing amiss - oil pressures seemed normal, and no leaks. So we're hitting the road later today for a 5 hour run up to north Texas . . . want this to be right . . .

Thoughts?
 

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Changed my oil last night (Rotella and installed a Fumoto drain valve - Oh, and also installed a GDE tune) . . . bought the truck used at 21,602 miles and I was told the (Ford) dealer changed it but I just felt better doing its myself.

So, the first thing I noted was that the old filter housing was on there very tight. It was tightened down all the way. Took a while to get it off with my ratchet/socket. My new Mopar oil filter had a torque spec stamped on the top of 25 lbs/ft of torque. My old school ways taught me to hand install an oil filter to get the threads right then hand tighten and then a half turn or so of tightening with a filter wrench, etc. Well, my torque wrench would not fit at any kind of angle to get a reading on it, so I just used my ratchet/socket to tighten it back down as I had found it.

But I'm a little spooked by how tight that thing is on our truck.

Ran it last night and saw nothing amiss - oil pressures seemed normal, and no leaks. So we're hitting the road later today for a 5 hour run up to north Texas . . . want this to be right . . .

Thoughts?
Run it down til it stops

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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What kind of torque wrench you trying to use? I use a click type on mine with no issues. Probably not many people bother to use a torque wrench on the oil filter cap but I had one on a car shatter trying to remove it many years ago(the previous oil change on the car was done at a shop).
You definitely don't want to overtighten the oil filter cap.
 

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This isn't your typical spin-on oil filter that goes 1/4 turn past flush. It's just a plastic housing with weak plastic threads. I use my hands and sometimes a crescent wrench until the cap stops turning. Do not go any further. Tight is good, let the o-ring do its thing.
 

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This isn't your typical spin-on oil filter that goes 1/4 turn past flush. It's just a plastic housing with weak plastic threads. I use my hands and sometimes a crescent wrench until the cap stops turning. Do not go any further. Tight is good, let the o-ring do its thing.
Good to know, I am doing my first oil change this weekend and was thinking a 1/4 past hand tight.
 

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Ditto: Someone else on the forums just asked this same question a month ago. I make sure to add a bit of oil to the O-ring so it doesn't stick and then hand tighten until it seats. I use the socket wrench to just finish seating until it stops turning...place your palm over the top of the wrench handle to prevent over-torquing. The gasket seal works really well.
 

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I use the socket wrench to just finish seating until it stops turning...place your palm over the top of the wrench handle to prevent over-torquing. The gasket seal works really well.
I did oil it with my finger first, and I had to use a socket wrench as well...I mean I could have continued using my hand, but the wrench made it far easier.
 

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Some of the other posts have hinted at it but nobody came right out and said it so I will. Typical spin on oil filter canisters have aflat faced rubber gasket that seals against a smooth flat faced surface on the oil filter mounting. That type requires sufficiently compressing the flat faced gasket onto the smooth flat faced surface. Our trucks use an O-RIng seal. That type of seal typically does not require a fixed torque to make the seal and to compress the O-ring.to make the seal. I tighten mine on the truck and my Pacifica until it is snug using a socket, universal joint and a flex handle or ratchet. If you are worried snug it again after it has cycled hot and cold once. It is much less likely to leak than an filter with a throwaway tin spin on. I love these filters.
 

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Undertightening has never been an issue with the oil filter. Reading all the above and they are all right. Just don't crank it down too much.

As stated, tighten until you feel something "touch". That darn thing sure seems to take lots and lots of turning on those threads. Then it just seems to stop. When that happens, you stop.
 
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