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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2015 that has about 180k on it. I’ve had a GDE tune and been EGR, DPF, Cat, and DEF deleted for about 80k miles I think.

I was driving home 60% of the way through a 12 hour trip. Houston to Albuquerque. HOT HOT HOT and HOT again. Truck was running fine/normal until I crossed the TX/NM border and it threw the CEL, Throttle Control warning and Exhaust Service see dealer. Now I don‘t have a DPF or an EGR that can be plugged. So I’m trying to figure out what to look at before I dig in.

The only thing out of the norm with the truck is that night before last, I pulled over at a rest stop to catch a quick little 20 minute nap, and woke up 7 hours later when someone called me. No idea how it happened, but it did. And its east Texas so temp was still low 90s and high humidity so naturally I had left the truck running with the A/C running. But I stretched my legs, hopped back in and took off down the road and it drove fine for 8 hours before it gave me the codes, so maybe its unrelated.

Unfortunately, where I broke down is the middle of nowhere. I tried resetting my codes but my reader wouldn’t do it. Tried disconnecting battery and discharging things and still didn’t do it. Checked on a tow and it would have taken them 6 hours to get to me, then another 4-6 home and not sure how much my insurance would cover. So I said to hell with it and decided to drive it home in limp mode. I found a way to feather the throttle to get it to shift and even with absolutely zero boost I could get it up to 65mph on flat ground. Going up hills wouldn’t drop below 40 mph. Oil pressure and temps all stayed acceptable throughout this stressful, long and drawn out 5 hours in limp mode to get home.

So what parts should I be checking? I saw a recent post that mentioned the map sensor so that will be where I go first I guess. But then after that, I’m not sure what to dig into.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just watched those videos and officially nervous. So after my initial issue, I got home, cleaned the plugged MAP, cleaned the MAF and put a new air filter in. Then I cleared the code, drove it. Made it about 800 miles before it came on again. I reset the code and drove normal again. I’ve reset it twice more since then trying to pinpoint it, but collectively have driven about 2k miles since it first popped up.

I don’t have a DPF or EGR. I deleted all that stuff around 100k miles.
I have a GDE tuned ECM. I called them and they told me there is nothing they can do to help me due to the EPA issues. Can’t even offer support.
I got a thermostat rationality code on one instance.
My coolant is low.

I’m now worried that my intake is melted or my turbo is bad. I may just go trade this pile in next week. I make fun of Ford guys for having to lift the cab to pull things off. Apparently thats the case on these turbos too according to that first video.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry , on the road and I read the rest of your early posts . See freeze frame you posted but I need actual vs commanded map or boost when code sets
MAP sensor being wet was just due to when I took the picture right after spraying it with the electronics cleaner. But, I will say I noticed quite a bit of oil in my CAC tubes. Not sure how much is normal in these things.

As to the exhaust message with the code, I can’t say. I’ve been deleted (EGR, DPF and Cat) and turned off (DEF) for about 80k miles, so nothing is there to be plugged and unless the ECM is randomly throwing a fault for missing equipment reading the wrong parameters I can’t understand that message either.

I’m using the OBD Link app for the MX+ scanner I use. I’m not sure if Alpha OBD would provide any more clear info/action there. Admittedly, data logging is not something I do much of, so I’m not positive exactly what to look at, but I can try and check that out later after work and get some more. Getting it when the code sets is going to be just shy of impossible. I’ve driven almost 2500 miles since it first set on me when I posted this thread a month ago. After clearing the code the first time, it took about 800 miles to come on again. Since then, each time I clear it, its random how long it takes to come back. Once it happened almost immediately while I was backing out of my driveway, and other times it will take 200-500 miles. It doesn’t seem to show up under any specific condition or throttle position, just randomly at various speeds, in various gears at various RPMs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Agreed. In a condition where I’d assume there should be little to no boost at all it sets that code. That code is the only one that is consistent. There have been a few random others that pop up with it, but don’t repeat like it does when I clear the code.

Honestly, I can’t tell if it is running right or not. I’ve always thought this was a gutless pig of a truck. Tuning and deleting made no difference. So I have no clue if I am getting any boost at all, or enough or what. I thought about putting a mechanical boost gauge in, but don’t really want to if I don’t have to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I haven’t seen P00AE or P00AF at all any of the times it has gone into limp mode on me. I really hate to start throwing parts at it but I guess I can if there is no other recourse. I can’t have them flash the truck back to stock though due to everything being deleted. That would send it haywire and limp due to missing EGR, Cat and DPF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When I say I deleted I mean deleted. Removed entirely from the truck. For me to return to stock I'd have to buy a new EGR and that's a ton of work and money to see if a problem is fixable in stock mode. Plus I've run the same software tuned and deleted for 80k miles without issue before this so I'm not real quick to believe it's a tuning problem just popping up 2 years later.

As for buying a monitor, that's 500 to a non essential piece of gear on a truck that may need a few hundred bucks worth of parts so doesn't make much sense.

Code came back on as I left work. About 25% throttle as you mentioned. As you can see though, 8 warm ups and 200 miles since the last time I cleared it.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have replaced about eight of these turbos. They always seem to set the ender burst under load around a quarter throttle. The P00ae it’s not even occurring that should be popping up and it’s internal Chart. P00af is and if that’s the color that you have gotten that also points to the turbo. In this case if I had to roll the dice I may try a used mass airflow that’s maybe not that much money. Also wouldn’t be a bad idea to have the dealership reflash ( put back to stock )the PCM even though it’s up-to-date. And if that doesn’t change anything you can also try a known good map sensor.
Can I ask you to dumb this down a little for me. What exactly am I supposed to be looking at? I don’t follow “2 & 4 are over dueling” maybe you meant cylinders 2 and 4 are over fueling? But even if that is correct, how do I look at that? Please, if possible, simplify the process as if you’re explaining it to someone who knows almost nothing about it. I’m trying to figure out which data I need to be looking at for answers.

As a secondary note, I threw a new MAP sensor at it. Set off the code the next morning getting on the highway. So no go there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
P0299 gets set when the turbo underboosts at 4psi. the question is why the turbo is under boosting which both a long and distinquished list of tests. the other codes can be helpful but get some flights (telemtry) on systems to see if 2 & 4 are over dueling for example.
I just realized that I misquoted a previous response intended for you. If I could trouble you to take a look at post #18, my questions were actually directed to you, rather than the quote I put on there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
yeah I said 2 and 4 for brevity on my phone, but a tech can run a flight and plot the fueling for each cyclinder and they should all be similar, typically 2 &4 for whatever reason Ive read seem to get more carbon and they foul up the rings which can cause reduced compression and therefore over fueling.

0299 is barely better than idiot light to be honest. the laymans translation is that “the pressure on the turbo side of intake is under 4psi, good luck!”. lol

my swirl valves are working perfectly at 80k and the tech was shocked. if you have low soot, now intake leaks, a good alternator and battery its probably the turbo or a sensor
I’ll have to see if my buddy can bring the scanner by this weekend. I don’t think any of what I have will log that info.

I’ve got no idea if the intake is soot filled or the valves work or don’t. I can only say that I didn’t see any obvious leaks area with my smoke machine hooked up. How difficult is pulling the intake manifold? Is it worth yanking it off the truck and trying to clean it up? I’m only seeing some super cheap looking ones on eBay and Banks ones for $7-900 So I don’t think intake getting replaced as a ”maintenance” item is going to happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
On all my past turbodiesels, a P0299 code is always an underboost condition. This can be from many things: from a blown hose, to a stuck wastegate controller or actuator, to a blown turbo. You need to find a way to inspect everything in the pathway of the air going to the intake: exhaust manifold to turbo, turbo itself (including variable vane system and wastegate controller and actuator), any boost pipes/hoses before/after the intercooler. Maybe run a smoke test for longer to see where the leak(s) is.

In the end, it will be limited to a boost leak somewhere, a physical fault with the wastegate controller or actuator, a bad sensor, or the turbo has just shat itself. But if that were the case, you'd likely have experienced more than just limp mode; you'd have black/blue smoke out the exhaust, or could've had a runaway condition. Since you mentioned nothing else other than limp mode, I'm guessing it's a boost leak somewhere and the ECU isn't happy until it's fixed.
Maybe I didn’t let the smoke run long enough when testing. I really expected it to billow out of the intake manifold and when it didn’t, I was actually a little disheartened because that would have at least been an answer. I’d definitely prefer a boost leak somewhere to the turbo being bad. I’m just not positive about either since that sort of failure isn’t really intermittent like the problem seems to be. Worries me that it could possibly electrical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Dropping an update to say I don’t have anything figured out. I have tested more, logged but can’t get the data off the scanner due to it being too large of a file size to send. I’ve pushed the truck hard and can feel a lack of boost compared to what it should be. I haven’t replaced anything else other than the MAP sensor, air filter and the battery.

At this point I’m guessing its the turbo. So I’m trying to save up for buying a two post lift so that I can lift the cab and replace it.

Anyone ever swap this drivetrain out for a more reliable/more powerful one? 12 valve? LS - lol? Seriously, I don’t hate the body of the truck I’ve got, but I’ve been nothing but disappointed by the ecodiesel for years now. I tried trading it in, but dealers don’t even want it without giving me pennies on the dollar. Said they have a hard time getting rid of them. I’m too far upside down to do anything other than keep driving this turd at this point.
 
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