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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have experienced the compressor freezing, getting the “service/repair air suspension immediately,” and blowing the 40 amp fuse twice in the last week. I found this YouTube video of what I consider a temporary bandaid that worked to clear the message and make the system operational after being plugged in with the block heater for about an hour.


I have also ordered a 12v 100 watt filter heater, thermostat, switch, relays, and in-line fuses. When I have a chance to get the truck in a heated garage I will figure out where to trigger the relay so heater and thermostat Are only powered when engine is running and switch is on. I’m considering putting the dc heater against the compressor and wrapping it with the battery blanket for insulation and maintaining the option to plug it in with the block heater.

Any thought on what temperatures to set the thermostat to shut down so I don’t cook the compressor?
 

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I have experienced the compressor freezing, getting the “service/repair air suspension immediately,” and blowing the 40 amp fuse twice in the last week. I found this YouTube video of what I consider a temporary bandaid that worked to clear the message and make the system operational after being plugged in with the block heater for about an hour.


I have also ordered a 12v 100 watt filter heater, thermostat, switch, relays, and in-line fuses. When I have a chance to get the truck in a heated garage I will figure out where to trigger the relay so heater and thermostat Are only powered when engine is running and switch is on. I’m considering putting the dc heater against the compressor and wrapping it with the battery blanket for insulation and maintaining the option to plug it in with the block heater.

Any thought on what temperatures to set the thermostat to shut down so I don’t cook the compressor?
if you are under warranty, save your money and bring it to the dealer... you have a bigger issue.

That system is supposed to be nitrogen charged as far as i know... NO air and thus no water vapor to freeze. If you bought the truck used, someone f'd with your suspension system and re-filled it using an air compressor.

if its NOT under warranty, you need to evacuate the system (much like an AC) using a vacuum pump and refill with pure nitrogen only. It will never freeze up again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’ve owned the truck since it was brand new in August of 2014. This is the first time I’ve had problems with it blowing the fuse, but I’ve gotten service air suspension alarms several times in the past. It usually happens about 30 minutes into my hour commute when the temperature is below -10 Fahrenheit. It is easy to diagnose the fuse failure because the suspension drops to the bump stops and turns your plush ride into a tank. The dealerships I’ve taken it to say The system is sealed and they won’t get into it unless the suspension will not cycle after it warms up and the fuses have been checked. My local dealership (48 miles away) had another truck come in that was froze up last week. I have not been impressed by FCA’s answer to the issues with this system.

From what I’ve been reading, I believe the system is supposed to be sealed, but it does have an exhaust line that goes up into the fender, so I wonder how it retains pressure after a release. My theory is that the compressor and/or valve body have tight tolerances because of trying to keep the system sealed and when the body super freezes it may be causing parts like the rotor or valves in the block to hang up, which in turn causes the compressor motor to overload from being dead headed. The control module senses there is an issue and throws the service code, or gives notice the compressor is hot and needs to cool down which usually saves the 40 amp fuse. I think I got the fuse this week because I started and stopped the truck several times before I was able to get it thawed out.

I have access to gauges, vacuum pumps and nitrogen and am willing to try evacuating the system and recharging it, but I haven’t been able to find specifications for what fitting is on the system, nor what pressure this system should be charged to. Any help in this direction would also be appreciated.
 

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I’ve owned the truck since it was brand new in August of 2014. This is the first time I’ve had problems with it blowing the fuse, but I’ve gotten service air suspension alarms several times in the past. It usually happens about 30 minutes into my hour commute when the temperature is below -10 Fahrenheit. It is easy to diagnose the fuse failure because the suspension drops to the bump stops and turns your plush ride into a tank. The dealerships I’ve taken it to say The system is sealed and they won’t get into it unless the suspension will not cycle after it warms up and the fuses have been checked. My local dealership (48 miles away) had another truck come in that was froze up last week. I have not been impressed by FCA’s answer to the issues with this system.

From what I’ve been reading, I believe the system is supposed to be sealed, but it does have an exhaust line that goes up into the fender, so I wonder how it retains pressure after a release. My theory is that the compressor and/or valve body have tight tolerances because of trying to keep the system sealed and when the body super freezes it may be causing parts like the rotor or valves in the block to hang up, which in turn causes the compressor motor to overload from being dead headed. The control module senses there is an issue and throws the service code, or gives notice the compressor is hot and needs to cool down which usually saves the 40 amp fuse. I think I got the fuse this week because I started and stopped the truck several times before I was able to get it thawed out.

I have access to gauges, vacuum pumps and nitrogen and am willing to try evacuating the system and recharging it, but I haven’t been able to find specifications for what fitting is on the system, nor what pressure this system should be charged to. Any help in this direction would also be appreciated.
My truck is also a 2014 which I ordered/configured from the Factory. I did not have issues during the first two winters. Started acting up in 2016/2017 but it would be very random. This past season however the minute it would get cold, I would get all sorts of messages (Service Air Suspension, Air Suspension Cooling Down, Disabled due to Load, etc.). Truck would also go down on the left side. If I drove it for a while it would sometimes just "fix" itself. Each time I would take it to the dealer it would fix itself as well, before I got there (Service Adviser saw it, but not the Technician).

Finally got it to a proper Technician who did more than say- "it is because of the Cold". Turns out there was a leak in the system, which required them to replace the Air Compressor (I believe the is where the leak actually was). Moisture was in the system, which was causing the Compressor to freeze up (I had told them before when I heard the Compressor running it did not sound right).

As the other poster mentioned, it is a closed system. Moisture should not get into the Compressor - and if it does it will start to cause more and more problems.
 

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Thanks for sharing your information. I’ll have to do some more troubleshooting with snoop while it’s in a heated shop. I’m well out of warranty
I had an almost exactly same problem as you and have posted here about it in a couple threads which you can find. It took 3 or 4 trips to the dealer including them discussing with Chrysler to get the problem resolved. It was diagnosed as a failure of the control module that is located under the front seat. It was replaced under warranty and have had no problems since. I bought the truck new and itnow hasabout 76,000 miles on it.
 

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I have said this before but sadly I suspect many who have recuring issues with the suspension are most likely victims of dealers who don't know what they are doing.

As others have mentioned, the system is sealed and utilizes nitrogen. If it is frozen, water has been introduced to the sealed system and the only way to fix it is to find the leak, then evacuate the system and recharge.

It sucks though when it goes down as I had a Range Rover that had the most unreliable air suspension and you can't go very fast on the bump stops.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Quick update:

Installed the 120 volt battery blanket 11 days ago, and have plugged it in at night along with the block heater. 5 of the last 7 days, the truck has seen temperatures that were setting the air suspension code in the past without issue. One night I forgot to check the gfci outlet after I plugged in and everything was frozen when I got up in the morning. I plugged the blanket into the inverter receptacle on the dash, and after 15 minute idle then idling while getting fuel, the compressor was warm to the touch and no warning that morning either. I had the truck in a shop Sunday and checked what I could on the struts and valve block and couldn’t find a leak. Also ran wiring for the two heaters in wire loom from the compressor along the frame and into the engine compartment. I installed a splitter for the 120 heater to run off same extension cord as the block heater.

Today I finished wiring in the 12v dc fuse box and fuel filter heater minus the thermostat that I mentioned previously. I will be staying where I cannot plug in this weekend and it’s supposed to get cold, so I’ll get to test it soon.

It looks like there is an intake line and filter behind the right tail light, but I’m not positive. I’ve also ordered the tech manual for my truck and plan to dig deeper into preventing future issues
 

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Quick update:

Installed the 120 volt battery blanket 11 days ago, and have plugged it in at night along with the block heater. 5 of the last 7 days, the truck has seen temperatures that were setting the air suspension code in the past without issue. One night I forgot to check the gfci outlet after I plugged in and everything was frozen when I got up in the morning. I plugged the blanket into the inverter receptacle on the dash, and after 15 minute idle then idling while getting fuel, the compressor was warm to the touch and no warning that morning either. I had the truck in a shop Sunday and checked what I could on the struts and valve block and couldn’t find a leak. Also ran wiring for the two heaters in wire loom from the compressor along the frame and into the engine compartment. I installed a splitter for the 120 heater to run off same extension cord as the block heater.

Today I finished wiring in the 12v dc fuse box and fuel filter heater minus the thermostat that I mentioned previously. I will be staying where I cannot plug in this weekend and it’s supposed to get cold, so I’ll get to test it soon.

It looks like there is an intake line and filter behind the right tail light, but I’m not positive. I’ve also ordered the tech manual for my truck and plan to dig deeper into preventing future issues
Good for you. It is nice to have someone with some mechanical knowledge and ability dealing with this on their own to report. Hope you can find the time to tell us what you find and conclude after you get the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got the service air suspension warning over the weekend, but it never went to the bump stops or blew any fuses. Had the 110 volt system plugged in last night and today while running errands, the truck went to the bump stops, no warnings, all fuses are good and it just flashes the height selection lights without any movement if I select anything besides normal ride height. Hopefully the manual I ordered shows up before I get off shift and I can troubleshoot this before I can get it to a dealership
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got an opportunity to investigate and found the valve block leaking where the line comes from the compressor. Cannot purge the system without wilink , so off to the dealership for replacement. I got a quote for purge, r&r the pump and valve block assembly and refill the system for about 1450, but can’t remember exact amount. 2-5 business days for the parts to get to dealer and then I’ll hopefully be good to go for another 140,000 miles.
 

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Got an opportunity to investigate and found the valve block leaking where the line comes from the compressor. Cannot purge the system without wilink , so off to the dealership for replacement. I got a quote for purge, r&r the pump and valve block assembly and refill the system for about 1450, but can’t remember exact amount. 2-5 business days for the parts to get to dealer and then I’ll hopefully be good to go for another 140,000 miles.
Thanks for this very thorough review of your air suspension. I'm at 115,000 miles on a 2014 limited crew cab and until this winter never had any suspension issues. Once this winter I had the message about getting the system reviewed, but it resolved itself within about 5 minutes of driving. If it continues at least I am not going into a shop blind to the possibilities, and again, thanks for all the information and feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for this very thorough review of your air suspension. I'm at 115,000 miles on a 2014 limited crew cab and until this winter never had any suspension issues. Once this winter I had the message about getting the system reviewed, but it resolved itself within about 5 minutes of driving. If it continues at least I am not going into a shop blind to the possibilities, and again, thanks for all the information and feedback.
If you pull right rear wheel and liner, the compressor and valve block are inside the felt compartment along the frame. Some soapy water might help find a small leak that can be fixed before it gets expensive
 

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So my suspension is borked again. Error is ride height not permitted due to payload. I am down on all 4 corners - so really bumpy ride in today :(. The weird thing is when it went. I arrived home after driving the truck all day - with zero issues. I pulled it out of my Driveway to blow the snow - and backed it up a bit into snow piled on the road - so it was not sitting level.

When I started it back up - suspension was all the way down. It wasn't very cold when it happened (though it is now). I am wondering if it tried to level itself, but because of how I parked it, it could not - so shut itself off to avoid damage. Would be really nice if there was a reset (other than pulling the fuse, which so far I have not been able to do).

Found an item on another post, that I am going to give a try. A number of sworn by it (though I cannot see why it would make a difference. Their thought is it is related to how the Truck Starts, and the Electronics come online;
1) Do not use Remote Keyfob to start truck.
2) Get into the truck, push the ignition twice to get all Electronics online. Wait 10 to 15 seconds.
3) Press brake pedal and start truck.

Like I said, I don't know why this would work, but people feel that starting the Truck creates too much of an electrical draw - so the Suspension Electronics do not initialize properly.

Worth a shot I guess.

By the way - what is the best way to pull the fuse? I tried the stupid little tool that is in the fuse box, but I cannot get it work.
 

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So my suspension is borked again. Error is ride height not permitted due to payload. I am down on all 4 corners - so really bumpy ride in today :(. The weird thing is when it went. I arrived home after driving the truck all day - with zero issues. I pulled it out of my Driveway to blow the snow - and backed it up a bit into snow piled on the road - so it was not sitting level.

When I started it back up - suspension was all the way down. It wasn't very cold when it happened (though it is now). I am wondering if it tried to level itself, but because of how I parked it, it could not - so shut itself off to avoid damage. Would be really nice if there was a reset (other than pulling the fuse, which so far I have not been able to do).

Found an item on another post, that I am going to give a try. A number of sworn by it (though I cannot see why it would make a difference. Their thought is it is related to how the Truck Starts, and the Electronics come online;
1) Do not use Remote Keyfob to start truck.
2) Get into the truck, push the ignition twice to get all Electronics online. Wait 10 to 15 seconds.
3) Press brake pedal and start truck.

Like I said, I don't know why this would work, but people feel that starting the Truck creates too much of an electrical draw - so the Suspension Electronics do not initialize properly.

Worth a shot I guess.

By the way - what is the best way to pull the fuse? I tried the stupid little tool that is in the fuse box, but I cannot get it work.
Let us know if that works. Was -34*F here yesterday am and part way through my drive I noticed that really stiff ride you get in the lowered position. When I finally pulled back in the garage, I noticed the drivers front wheel all the way compressed down. After letting it set in the (warmer) garage for a few hours I noticed the truck leveled off by itself. Just for added assurance before going out again that afternoon, I ran a heater under the truck back by the compressor assembly. Everything worked fine the rest of the day. Although I love the air suspension, it has to have costed RAM some good money for all the cold weather issues owners have had.
 

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The air suspension on my '14 has acted up the past two days thanks to the 'vortex' but it never goes down to the bump stops and I think I've found a method to keep it from going all the way down - though this could just be coincidence.

During a cold spell last winter the suspension dropped to the bump stops when I was on the highway and I had the Aero Mode engaged. I stopped for a customer visit and when I came out and started the truck the suspension came back up to normal. I turned off Aero Mode and the truck didn't misbehave the rest of the winter.

Fast forward to the current vortex... the Aero Mode is still turned off and though I do get an error message in the EVIC the truck maintains normal ride height and rides fine. The truck won't let me raise it to Offroad 1 or 2 (and I don't try to lower it to Entry/Exit height in case it won't come back up to Normal) but other than that it rides normally. The error message goes away after it flashes just after startup but no obvious signs that the air system isn't working properly.

Do any of you with air suspension issues have your Aero Mode engaged?


Bob
 

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I personally do not use the aero mode at all in order to avoid that the suspension has to work too much by raising-lowering the truck ; especially when the truck is moving.
 
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