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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The engine was disassembled completely (long story, PM me if really interested) and inspected for wear. There was almost none and overall looked very impressive, especially considering the mileage. The parts were "carefully" placed into a large box, but all the fasteners (nuts, screws, and bolts) were dumped in a bucket. I've decided to do a light rebuild and put the thing back together...

Besides being able source parts, which seem to be slowly becoming available again, one of the challenges are trying to figure out where each of the fasteners belongs. I've been trying to match up stuff using online parts websites, but the descriptions and images lack any real detail, same goes for Alldata. And I found a really good "teardown video" on youtube that i think everyone on this site has seen at least once.

Any other suggestions? I'd actually offer to pay someone who has a partially torndown engine to help me with ID'ing some of the questionable fasteners.

Oh, and never mind giving me negative advice on this project - I already know I'm nuts!
 

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I did a small block Chevy that came to me in pieces, rods & pistons in a box, all the bearing caps in another box, I think it took over a week (working after I got home from my regular job) to get them squared around, same with the mains. I know that doesn't compare to the ECODIESEL in terms of difficulty, but people that don't have a clue need to keep their fingers out of things! BEST WISHES!
 

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2020 Ram 1500 Ecodiesel, Limited, 4x4, crew cab, air ride
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Just start by separating your hardware out into like groups. Go through the engine and identify all the larger/high volume bolts first like head bolts, mains, oil pan, etc and then leave the remainder for last after you've whittled through the majority of them. That's what I do with mystery builds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yep done the easy stuff, just as you said. Not my first rodeo lol. I even did a mock build up without the reciprocating hardware. But there’s an enormous variety of very similar length small stuff. Fortunately the key hardware like bearings and pistons is all identified as to their original location. It’s very doable but trying to “cheat” as much as possible!
 

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2016 Big Horn 4X4 Engine and Transmission tuned by no longer available (but truck runs good)
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2019 RAM 1500 Classic Tradesman 4X2 EcoDiesel
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The engine was disassembled completely (long story, PM me if really interested) and inspected for wear. There was almost none and overall looked very impressive, especially considering the mileage. The parts were "carefully" placed into a large box, but all the fasteners (nuts, screws, and bolts) were dumped in a bucket. I've decided to do a light rebuild and put the thing back together...

Besides being able source parts, which seem to be slowly becoming available again, one of the challenges are trying to figure out where each of the fasteners belongs. I've been trying to match up stuff using online parts websites, but the descriptions and images lack any real detail, same goes for Alldata. And I found a really good "teardown video" on youtube that i think everyone on this site has seen at least once.

Any other suggestions? I'd actually offer to pay someone who has a partially torndown engine to help me with ID'ing some of the questionable fasteners.

Oh, and never mind giving me negative advice on this project - I already know I'm nuts!
I'll bet you could buy another broken one cheap and take it apart to see where the fasteners come out! Besides, once you rebuild one, you might as well rebuild another. I've heard there's a demand for running ED motors!!!
 

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+2 for reaching out to @67_Valiant he could write a book on this motor and his attention to detail is impressive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well with that mileage you need new stuff like bearings and pistons anyways I would do a proper rebuild with a shop like freedom racing engines.
so i've measured 3.5-4 thou clearance on the pistons which is about what they should be based on typical piston-bore for forged piston diesel application. run em. AND more importantly, I'm going to check main and rod bearing clearances, and if they are reasonable I'm going to send it with the old 1/4M mile bearings (!!) because I've heard these motors go boom early when those clearances are irregular or the bearings are defective, or mal maintained. "I'd prefer the devil I know than the devil I don't!". So with reasonable clearances and good oil I'm betting I'm good to go for another 250k.
+2 for reaching out to @67_Valiant he could write a book on this motor and his attention to detail is impressive.
yep, I've read that thread and def impressed by his thoroughess and willingness to spread the wealth of knowledge - i will reach out if I get to that point, thanks for the feedback.
 

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I'll bet you could buy another broken one cheap and take it apart to see where the fasteners come out! Besides, once you rebuild one, you might as well rebuild another. I've heard there's a demand for running ED motors!!!
I think this is a really good idea.
 
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Sorry for just tossing this in the first engine thread I came across.....

Wondering if anyone, after blowing their 2nd gen ED, has heard of replacing their ED with either a 3rd gen ED or even a Hemi afterwards???

I'm coming up on the last 3k miles of my bumper2bumper warranty and have no confidence on the reliability of this 2nd gen ED motor. Here's the kicker, besides all the recall BS to deal with, it's been totally reliable, never leaving me stranded once, so I'm kinda conflicted.

Wife's needing a newer car and have considered just trading it in but I still need a truck on occasion so kinda all over the place on my next move. If I learned that upgrading to a 3rd gen was a common move because it's been proven to be more reliable, then I'd likely keep the truck and just hope for the best....finding this thread w/ someone reaching 270K miles is hugely impressive and makes me feel stupid for not believing in this motor but it is what it is.....but knowing that a 3rd gen would fit even if it cost me on the north side of $10k....I'd likely consider it cuz I love the truck otherwise.

Thoughts?
 

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Wondering if anyone, after blowing their 2nd gen ED, has heard of replacing their ED with either a 3rd gen ED
As far as I know, it has never been done, mostly because it's a costly changeover. However, GDE is putting together a kit that will make it possible. It will be costly, but if you love the diesel (as some of us do), then it will be a viable option.
 

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The engine was disassembled completely (long story, PM me if really interested) and inspected for wear. There was almost none and overall looked very impressive, especially considering the mileage. The parts were "carefully" placed into a large box, but all the fasteners (nuts, screws, and bolts) were dumped in a bucket. I've decided to do a light rebuild and put the thing back together...

Besides being able source parts, which seem to be slowly becoming available again, one of the challenges are trying to figure out where each of the fasteners belongs. I've been trying to match up stuff using online parts websites, but the descriptions and images lack any real detail, same goes for Alldata. And I found a really good "teardown video" on youtube that i think everyone on this site has seen at least once.

Any other suggestions? I'd actually offer to pay someone who has a partially torndown engine to help me with ID'ing some of the questionable fasteners.

Oh, and never mind giving me negative advice on this project - I already know I'm nuts!
I see guys on ebay who are parting out engines selling "sets" of used hardware (Oil Pan, CP4, intake manifold, etc). You could probably take a look at their pictures and get a pretty good idea of what goes where
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm really curious what the rod and main bearing clearances are with 1/4 million miles on them....are you able to measure and report back?
The main bearing clearances were all in the 0.0015-0.002" range using plastigage. Although tempted to reuse (those clearances are good and the bearing condition is excellent visually), I've opted to replace the mains with the King bearings.
The rods are a bit trickier since rod bolts are completely unavailable. So the quandary is how many bolt tightening cycles (stretches) am I willing to do?.... If I reinstall the original bearings without measuring, then that's 2 total. If I install aftermarket and check, and then install then that's 3. I've opted to go with "2.5" lol. I plan to install the OE bearings and torque to 75% of max spec and measure. Do same with new bearings. Then do a full TTY torque on the final install. Not much choice here, and I don't think the clearances change much based on that last bit of rod bolt tension.
Kindly post pics of your build... inquiring minds want to see this good yummie stuff!! :)
Yep, will do. Block is honed, cleaned, and painted. Pistons ultrasonic cleaned. Looking like new! (will post photos in a day or two)
 

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@i-Zapp, did you have an engine failure at 270,000 miles or what was the reason for the rebuild?
 

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The main bearing clearances were all in the 0.0015-0.002" range using plastigage. Although tempted to reuse (those clearances are good and the bearing condition is excellent visually), I've opted to replace the mains with the King bearings.
The rods are a bit trickier since rod bolts are completely unavailable. So the quandary is how many bolt tightening cycles (stretches) am I willing to do?.... If I reinstall the original bearings without measuring, then that's 2 total. If I install aftermarket and check, and then install then that's 3. I've opted to go with "2.5" lol. I plan to install the OE bearings and torque to 75% of max spec and measure. Do same with new bearings. Then do a full TTY torque on the final install. Not much choice here, and I don't think the clearances change much based on that last bit of rod bolt tension.

Yep, will do. Block is honed, cleaned, and painted. Pistons ultrasonic cleaned. Looking like new! (will post photos in a day or two)
As an aside, I have reused both the head bolts and rod bolts (of necessity). So far, I haven't had any failures, but it is definitely something I've worried about.

I've also looked for suitable replacements for the rod bolts, and came up empty. I'm sure they could be built, but would probably be costly and have a minimum quantity to run.
 
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