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Hello All,

First off, I know doing this delete is fairly risky, and that I will be towing a thin line. But my reservations about the general runnings of the vehicle warranted the delete. I can attest GDE is probably the best tuner to go through for Deletes, or Standard equipment. If you are going to do the removal, please plan ahead, plot out the items needed to be removed. Another factor is if you already a "DPF" back system already installed. Something to note right away is the importance to A. Get a GDE Tune (Disable EGR Valve) B. Clean your DPF Injector/ Area. By my mileage and estimate, a person should obtain a tune within the first 20k or less miles. If you are running a stock tune, I know the manual states change oil at 10k miles. But I would personally change oil near 7.5k miles, and around 5k miles if you use B20 blend at least 50% of the time. Near 15k miles no more than 20k miles on a stock tune, I would service you DPF Injector. If you are running a GDE tune, I would estimate 30k-40k miles before servicing the injector. I cannot stress enough to learn from experience and do maintenance religiously on any piece of equipment you operate and depend on.

1. Planning - A couple weeks before my window of time to do the removal, I made sure to plan VBand clamps, Flange Gaskets, and Tune before the job. I also used a paint pen and got underneath the truck to plot out which connections I'd be needing to remove, and how I would go about it.

2. Protecting and plotting - After the pipe was removed I took time to remove, unplug and tape up the old incase I needed to reinstall later. There are 2 "Box like" sensors that are at the end of the DPF that are a pain to get to. I ended up having to cut those wires, but not before marking each end for later use.

3. Adapting the DPF Back pipe - I already had an MBRP 3.5in running out the rear. It was tricky but I had to cut both ends of the DPF replacement pipe, and flare out the MBRP pipe to fit to 3in opening. If you are using a stock pipe set up I believe you have to cut 7in off that particular pipe to fit for a 5.7ft bed.

4. Adding additional support - There is an exhaust hanger that attaches to the frame where the 2nd replacement pipe is attached. There is too much room for "up/down" play when the truck is going down the road. Only 1 of 2 openings on the bracket are used stock, so I took some bar laying around the house that fit the opening and bent it so there would be more support for that motion. I believe this will help since I did not add a flex pipe like others.

5. Figuring EGT Sensor - If you run an Ultra Gauge or like device for vehicle readings, you will lose the ability to read those temps. I have traced which line and sensor to use, but sadly, the main bus on the driver side frame rail is where you disconnect the DPF equipment which is where the EGT sensor that is readable is unplugged in that same process. If I can figure a fix for this in the future I will let others know. But as of now, may not be needed really at all. The temps I have read have been as follows. @ Turbo DownPipe - 300~f. @ Exhaust immediate 170-230~f. @Mid way 145-165~f. Checked after a decent semi intense road test.

Fuel consumption is down, especially on the highway. My work trip average is right around 25.5mpg, and thats roughly 65% Hwy, 35%City. Prior my average was 21mpg~ If you decide to do this, take your time, think things through, and do it right. The truck runs better I feel, and actually sounds like a truck. I call it the "Hair Dryer" now.

If you read this far, thanks!
-Cherry
 

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Which aftermarket replacement pipe did you use? I plan on accomplishing the off road conversion as soon as the power train warranty expires or when my DPF or SCR craps out. Whichever comes first.
 

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Theres no need to cut any wires the two sensors on the end are nox sensors and they are hard wired to the box. Its easy to just remove the box and sensors as one.
 
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