That was pretty good, they may have mentioned it, and I may have missed it, but it was taken out of service while still operational?? I find it very bizarre there are as many engine failures as there have been reported and some engines do fine, Another thing I have not heard or read about the Eco, do they incorporate Low-tension rings, the reason I ask is because of the condition of the cylinders and a comparison of some other engines I have torn down or worked on with low cylinder wear and a lot of cross-hatch still evident, that engine appeared to have still been in decent shape, would be interesting to know if it had been tuned and some of the other history with it A lot better than looking at the ones that have "Grenade'd"

 

Hi: keiths487too... Glad to know there may be hope for ME and my ECOD. yet. Even on Rotella T6 Eh?
Dieseldragon North shore of Lake Erie.

 

Not surprising. Expect to see and hear about many more of these from well taken care of Engines as they get older.

 

kinda makes me want to switch to Guardol XT Full synthetic... interesting about the lack of soot!

 

Take all criticism with a grain salt, remember you're more likely to have success than failure with this engine.....why?

You'll hear repeatedly from anyone who is facing a major expense and that's fair no one is ever filled with joy if it happens, but you'll never see the same level of exuberance from someone who's been fortunate which is the majority of gen 2 engines.

We've seen it all this engine 9 years in, and this forum is getting its share of one and done's:
-help requests from auto flippers
-auction specials purchases
-trucks with prior multiple owners
-resold junk title buyback trucks
-US / CAN resold trucks

I'm taken back by the audacity exhibited by some folks buying anything AS-IS and expecting perfection and ignoring the disclaimers, unsound judgement is no excuse for blaming the world for a bad decision you made.

 

Well said brother!!

 

Call me out but it all boils down to soot and clean engine,,, people will argue no excessive soot was found in Blackstone etc etc,, but show me an engine that had a bottom end grenade with a clean running tune that was tuned when young..

 

My 2 cents= it had the original GDE tune. That's only based on driving mine with the stock tune for the first 5,000 miles.

 

Had to be tuned. Way too clean.

Could not see an egr at the start so no clue if ones even on the engine.

 

Why didn't they show the intake? That would be the tell all about the engine as the oil shouldn't touch the intake. Oil itself doesn't do anything to limit soot.

 

The reason why I posted it was I think in the end if you take care of it with proper oil and filter changes it shows that there is not so much wear in the bottom end. I know when I was looking to buy one the main thing I was looking for was a good

 

Oops hit post lol. I was looking for a good maintenance record. Also a bonus was mine was a one owner too. Carfax reported oil changes every 5000 to 6000 mile oil changes and every 20,000 on the fuel filter. Also the truck had 120,000 miles on it so I knew it was driven. I now hav

 

O my God, I keep doing it. I now have 157,000 and I wouldn't hesitate to drive the truck across the country.

 

If you click on the three dots, you can edit to continue your comment.

 

Curious if this oil meets the MS-11106 spec?

Answered my own question:

... so it is possible for an engine to survive (or even thrive) on an oil other than Rotella T-6 LOL

 

It would be interesting if after Bosch fixes the problem, if they will ever re-debut the EcoD (or any diesel) in the RAM 1500 in two/three years?

I've been told that GM is planning a long-term existence for their mini Duramax in their 1500 series, even though the big government wants to get rid of ICE engines altogether especially diesels.

What that all means, well, I don't know... but it begs me to question these EPA "issues" including electrification... these auto manufacturers certainly know a lot more about it than we all do in terms of the regime. Is it all lies to put folks in fear?

With that being said, I read a good article about manufacturers and people's desire for electric/hybrid vehicles. At the end of the day, it appears 85% of people don't want electric or hybrid for that matter. Due to many factors and views on them.

AFAIK, all the dealers I went to in the 100 mile radius looking for a diesel truck, they said that folks are holding on to them after they buy them. Including fixing them if it's beyond the cost of the vehicle itself. I guess diesel owners are a special breed, and not in a bad way.

 

Long time members will remember these pics. Tuned from day one EGR turned off. 10k interval T6. 423k miles engine cracked a head. Heat killed both of my motors ie no bearings/crank failure. If you go to a Ram dealership and have them do a nationwide search you may still find a few 2023s that were built earlier this year. Although I read they were recalled for the fuel pump some may be put back into availability for dealerships once the fuel pump has been replaced. May take a little digging on the dealerships part. To me this could make acquiring one special and very cool.

 

Dad’s ‘15 bone stock and 110k miles.
SIL’s ‘17 bone stock and 105k miles.
My ‘16 bone stock first 50k then GDE. Ran Rotella and four other brands. Weights include 5w30, 5w40, and now 15w40. Seems to me 99% of failures may simply be bad luck.
What I’ve always wondered about being failures and did they roll of assembly line together in lots or completely random with no discernible patterns.

 

It should be noted:

1) This truck operated out of Phoenix, AZ.
2) This truck was operated by a parts and supply distributor.
3) The operator also used it as a "daily driver". Assume that means "deliver the kids to school, pickup the little one, etc"

What does this mean? This truck operated out of a typically warm environment. Most of its operational miles would be done after warm up period and the engine would be kept warm all day long. Perhaps not running all day but warmed up all day before being put away for the night. Weekends might be a bit more up and down but the warm environment will promote heat retention.

Why do I point this out? This is not a typical use pattern for most passenger vehicles. Heat cycling is a big issues when it come to the life of machinery.

I have about 76k miles on this engine; previous owner lost the engine at 72k miles and traded in. I fully expect to have issues at 100k+. I change oil every 6k to 8k miles with one exception at 10k. I use only the correct spec oil and I keep the coolant bottle within the proper range. The truck spends most of its life hauling me and the kids to and from school/work but I tend to use the gas Durango when just doing a short drive here in town. I work in the next town over so that gives it time to "warm up" but with our climate that is almost a joke. It hauls and tows a bit and I take it to Ohio/Wisconsin to visit the relatives each year at least once. Yet, I still don't expect much out of it past 100k. I want 200k but I'll just keep working until I can.

Does give me some other options.

 

I fully expect to have issues at 100k+.

Yet, I still don't expect much out of it past 100k.

Your expectation is 50% less than mine. I'm at 112,500 miles on my 2015. I short trip it every day (7 miles one way). We take a few long trips each year and do a fair amount of towing. My expectation is 200,000 miles. I figure it will take 8 more years before I reach 200,000 miles. I'll be happy if the truck remains mostly free of major problems for 16+ years/200,000 miles.

 

"Heat cycling is a big issues when it come to the life of machinery" I agree best is full normal operating temps and less complete cool downs and reheats. Too often I pushed mine too hot too long. IMO If you are pushing 230+ water often or long periods of time gaskets, composites & plastics, lol plastic tanks glued to aluminum radiator core, rubber, hoses even metal fatigue sets in and you will eventually pay a price for it. Even just crazy sunlight heat drys stuff out to become brittle.

This is one reason big trucks and the 6.7 Cummins is so durable. It takes a hell of load to get their coolings systems to be overwhelmed and allow for it to run above normal operating temp. Are the engines shoe horned into a tiny mostly sealed engine bay to cook. No lots of open space and air flow. All the other I use X additives change my oil every week blah blah are icing. You still need quality design, components, materials avoid excessive rpm etc but really all the additives short oil changes baby it etc meh some a little good some a little bad just keep the main thing the main thing.

 

Comparing the 6.7l Cummins to the 3.0l EcoD in terms of room in the engine compartment is amazing. I can almost fit myself in front of the motor on my 2020. Sometimes I still can't fathom how that little motor can push 480 ft/lbs of torque, but it does.

I do wish the motor was a little more forward to reach some back items and keep tabs on things without the use of lights and mirrors.

 

I honestly feel like it is luck of the draw on these engines.

 

I've been saying this for the last 5 years. I've got a buddy who just turned 420,000 miles on his EcoDiesel. He takes care of the truck, but he isn't easy on it. Earlier this year, he towed 17,000 lbs for 176 miles.

 

I believe the early failures are the people who get a bad one. The failures trickling in past 100k miles I tend to believe are due to abuse/incorrect or lack of maintenance.

Ive had good luck with mine and while I don’t feel like I abuse it I certainly use it. I’ve towed 7-8 thousand pounds several times and it has done well. I’ve had double the rated payload in it numerous times with no ill effects. I keep up on maintenance don’t push it when it’s cold and drive.

 

The heat cycles definitely play a roll in life span, the last VP44 I replaced I went with a Blue Chip??? pump, while talking to them they mentioned the life expectancy of those pumps to be a certain number of heat cycles, 2500 or so IIRC, I was kind of shocked

 

for what it is worth, I believe mine is about that clean and if you are that clean at 100k you should be at 200k. I took the EGR tube off last year when I was having the turbo-shutdown problems (intake tube leak) and there wasn't but a just a tiny dusting/film of powder on it and the intake had some light powder in it, not much slime. I'm no guru but this is my 2nd ecodiesel, we had an early Jeep which "polluted at highway speeds" lol.... for 80k and sold it before dieselgate. that thing did a whopping 5 miles a day for 4 years.

i have watched the live data on a scan tool to see the egr functioning and the more you can either keep that thing closed or the hotter you can run the combustion, the better off I think we are. Additives increase the chamber temps and sort of defeat the EGR in that way especially when you run long trips and get full long duration temps. it takes some time to get all the intake parts saturated with heat but i did measure the hood strut and some parts with a heat gun last year in 90 degree ambient air, after 30 miles highway the strut was 130F, it'd blister your hand. there is no way you're getting 130 F hood strut going 10 miles, the intake cover was 154, i have the photos saved on my phone.

heat is your friend right up to about 230F on oil then it's our enemy it seems lol. It really operates well in a very narrow temp, 215-230.

I will be doing a very tough tow of a 35' white box Jayco out of southern new england elevation like 150 above sea level, over the berkshires to 1,729 feet, 2nd highest point on I90 east of north dakota on Mass Pike, it's brutal for east coast and then all the way up to adirondacks. i go from elevation 150, up to 1700, back down to elevation 500 and then back up to 1800 in a 4hr trip and 100' rollers along the way, plus 15mph head winds from the west. she'll bake a cake under that hood for sure. its so easy to hit 240 or 250 with the 3.92 gear, can't even use all of the pedal lol. i'm also rolling with 60lb e-rated all terrains,doesn't help lol. anyways, heat is good if you can keep your foot out of it and be patient. i try to stay below 240 oil and just go as fast at she will let me like a 90's silverado lol.

 

I will be doing a very tough tow of a 35' white box Jayco out of southern new england elevation like 150 above sea level, over the berkshires to 1,729 feet, 2nd highest point on I90 east of north dakota on Mass Pike, it's brutal for east coast and then all the way up to adirondacks.

When will you be making that trip?

 

Our 21 ED has taken our Grand Design boxy style travel trailer across the country four times. Its towed that trailer up to 10,500 feet, and into 30 to 40 mph headwinds. This month we went over the pass from Victor ID to Jackson WY and then out Yellowstone thru the eastern pass to Cody WY.

I've never had a "light duty" tow vehicle power thru the mountains and/or into a stiff wind as well as my current Ram 1500 with the ED. My Hemi Durango came close, but it was awfully loud and had trouble at high altitude. The ED can maintain 65 MPH easily on the steepest grades, and even with the cruise control. Yes, when the wind really picks up the MPGs drop.... but the worst MPG I ever had towing that box was heading west across Nebraska... and that was still 10 MPG. Normal MPG is 13 or 14 when towing. On a steep uphill multi-lane grade the Ram 1500 ED can stay at 65. I still have to steer around all the trucks, motor-homes, SUVs and pickups who can't maintain speed. It's particularly obvious that at altitudes above 4,000 feet that the Ram's little 3.0 liter turbo diesel is performing better than even larger displacement gas engines.

 

@DADEO, do you know what your highest temps were while towing? Here's mine:

 

No really. And I have to admit I will never be taking pictures of my dash while driving! ;-) But I did reset the dash display so I see oil, water and transmission temps in the 4 corners (replacing the compass, outside temp, and battery indicators). They've never gone above the mid-point.

I admit to being really conservative when towing. I put the truck in tow haul mode, stay below the speed limit and use the cruise control as much as I can. I keep the speed at 65, even if the limit is 70-85. (And why do some states even have 85 MPH limits anyway?) I also use cruise going down long grades because the truck automatically shifts down to hold the speed, saving the brakes (and my nerves) for real emergencies.

Frankly, I'm more concerned about how fast I can stop when going down a steep grade than how fast I can go up. Years ago the brakes faded to nothing on the F-450 stake rack I was driving on Rt 20 south of Syracuse. I was towing a sand blaster hopper trailer and a full load of sand to a job site. I learned real young and fast that one does NOT ride the brakes going down a steep long grade, especially one with a curve at the bottom! Truck had a manual. I found 2nd, then 1st gear real quickly!