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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm planning to use a hole saw for the main hole, then drilling the three 'screw' holes. This would require replacing the self tapers that came with the receptacle with three stainless bolts/nuts. I taped the receptacle cap to the bumper to show possible drilling location.

Any tips? Any concerns? Any recommendations? Any last words before I make a permanent decision that I could potentially regret, lol?




 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Use a center punch and a sharp HSS drill bit or better yet maybe cobalt or titanium carbide.
You mentioned drill bit, but what about the hole saw?
 

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After holesawing, file off any edges so they are nice and smooth then clear lacquer the cut edges to prevent corrosion. Afters its dry spray the inside and out with Fluid Film.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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I used a similar bit to put the hole in my cargo trailer for that receptacle, worked like charm and it went through 3/16 steel, no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I used a similar bit to put the hole in my cargo trailer for that receptacle, worked like charm and it went through 3/16 steel, no problem.
That's good to know. The bumper seems paper thin! I can't imagine the chrome coating being very thick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah. slow RPM is the ticket.
That was going to be my next question. So, a cordless drill will be fine? Should I set the cordless on (1) or (2) speed?
 

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I might add you need a good drill motor, 1/2 inch with the extra handle to get a good grip. I used those small hole saws on metal before, if that bit grabs it can twist your wrist and hurt yourself. Going at a slow speed is great advice. I would never use a hole saw with a smaller drill motor without the extra handle.

I would also drill a pilot hole first with a small drill bit, like 1/8 inch. It will be easier to keep the bigger drill point from "wandering".

I like this plug in deal you have. I need something like that for my 2021 CTD, it was originally right behind the license plate and on your knees in a not very convenient place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Good news. The punch worked well and the drilling went smooth, much smoother than I anticipated. The key was slow speed (#1 on the drill). Time to get the deburring tool out and clean up the edges. Then I need to drill the 3 'bolt' holes, although I think I'm going to drill the holes just big enough so the self-tappers can thread in. Eventually I'll source some bolts that I find suitable.

A big thank you to everyone who responded in this thread post. I've done a lot of wood work, but very little metal work. I didn't know what to expect. I really thought the hole saw drilling was going to be difficult, but it was actually very smooth and easy.
 
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