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Tips on ordering your own build and How much off MSRP should you pay?

6K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  John Bartley 
#1 ·
I'm looking to purchase 2020 ecodiesel Limited, when I spec it online it came out $67,325 what do you guys think is a fair purchase price? I've seen some dealers here locally (oregon) selling they're trucks at 10k off msrp.

Also is it true when you spec your own truck, they can't give you a price until the truck arrives?
 
#2 ·
I spec'd my truck off the web and ordered it after getting a firm price quote from the selling dealer. Mine listed at $72k CDN before extended warranty and all prep/taxes on the web. I paid $62k CDN all in and got the 84/160km warranty, six years of zero interest financing and a lifetime perforation warranty by getting it sprayed by FCA. I put $10k down and flew 700km to pick up the truck. I bought mine over the internet by email and telephone and ordered it the last week of Dec 2015. I picked it up the third week of Feb 2016
 
#4 ·
Thanks for all the replies, I can't seem to find any 2020 ED Limited build how I wanted online, searched the whole USA. I'm looking for 2020 ED 4wd Limited 6'4", 33g tank, offroad package, limited level 1 and plus other options.

One dealer offer me to order one, but they can't guarantee me a price, because they would not know what rebates available when the truck arrives. I didn't want to order one and having the dealer charged me full msrp when the truck arrives, they did say my deposit is refundable if I cancelled. Can you guys share how to negotiate the price on ordered truck?

I got around 20% off msrp on my 2016 ED that was sitting on the lot already.
 
#5 ·
The standard rules for Chrysler orders for a long time have been you get either the rebates when you order or the rebates when the truck is delivered. You get the sticker price the vehicle has when it is delivered. Mine increased $100 in nominally 8 weeks between order and delivery. You should negotiate for a certain $ amount or percentage below invoice and invoice is what it is when the truck arrives. It is unlikely to change much. Although when I ordered mine they did not have the employee pricing program nor did they have the free 0% financing for 36 moths so the truck price I agreed to pay dropped significantly when it actually arrived plus, instead of paying cash I got free financing for 36 months.

The numbers for my Pentastar Longhorn with a mid October order date and a mid December delivery date were as follows original sticker 67340, negotiated price 60200 less 2500 in rebates and dealer coupons yielding a price of 57,700

actual upon arrival sticker 67440, employee plus pricing 58201 plus 3000 in rebates for apurchase price of 55,201 or 12,239 below sticker. The original deal had 2 dealer 250 coupons in the rebates and I managed to get 4 of those coupons in the final deal. Plus I got the free financing which, if I consider it at 2% interest amounts to about another $1500 on the deal since the financed amount was less the tradein.

None of the above numbers include tax or fees etc. Two things I would advise, watch out for dealer 'documentation' or 'processing' fees and recognize that dealers have these magic $250 coupons FCA gives them to dole out as they see fit and your job is to get more than your fair share of them. I have seen the documentation/processing fees vary from $50 to $999. I have never been able to negotiate them but be aware of them since some low priced dealers quote a great price then get a bunch back with the processing fee.

It is all a bit of a game, do your homework, don't be desperate and most of all don't be afraid to bargain hard, it is your money.. You can always go up a bit on your offer but can never come down once you have put a number on the table!
 
#6 ·
I ordered my '16 and they told me I'd get whatever rebates were available at the time of delivery. 4wks from order to delivery and the rebates didn't change. I ended up with 15% off MSRP, which from what I've seen is about average.
 
#9 ·
About 15% here, sure I maybe left some on the table but looking at the big picture (scroll down for summary LOL):

-I got 100% the truck I wanted at the time but without special ordering. I finally sat my butt down at my desk one night and scrolled through Ram's inventory, selected what options I could select, sorted by distance:nearest, and clicked on each truck and viewed the window sticker (more reliable than dealer descriptions which change on a whim). I went through over 100 trucks probably. This was the 2nd closest but the dealer was willing to work with me.
My only regret is not shopping for a Big Horn or something. Once I looked at a Tradesman, the rest seemed like "fluff" I didn't need. But it seems the Big Horn gets discounts and rebates more heavily than the base model, so it would have cost about the same in the end. There was just some things in the Big Horn I intentionally did NOT want.

-My local dealership had zero interest in stuff, and I never trusted them - their sales tactics include the outdated-but-works-on-stupid-people method of the "Added Dealer Markup" sticker to make customers feel like they got a good deal while they apply the Vaseline.

-Dealer asking price was already a few thousand off MSRP, minimal negotiations over phone and email they dropped it further then applied some of these "magic coupons" (dealer cash incentives) totaling $1500.

-At the Ram booth at a local rodeo, I filled out the truck sweepstakes entry. A few weeks later I got an email incentive $500 off a new truck. For people not shopping for a truck, $500 off a $40k-$50k truck is silly and not going to magically get me in a dealership. For someone actively shopping, like me, it was another $500 in "free money" just for entering a drawing. I forgot about this coupon during the original negotiations, so it wasn't made up elsewhere. They had to apply it at the end, on top of all the rest of the discounts.

-They charged $80 for paperwork which seems to be the standard lowest rate.

-They quoted $550 to deliver the truck to my front door in Fresno, CA from Cottage Grove, OR...over 600 miles driving. When the paperwork was done the delivery was only $500 and they did not hide the other $50 somewhere else. Funny, truck showed up on a flatbed trailer being towed by a 2010-ish 2500. Driver not a dealer employee, but does jobs for them. The 2500 was a used truck on the dealer's lot. He wasn't picking up another truck on the return trip. My truck was a deadhead job. The dealership provided a driver with a truck, did a one-way delivery, and drive it back empty, racking up over 1200 miles on a used truck they were actively selling. They definitely didn't make any money off the delivery fee.

-No add-ons, no pressure.

-I got 0% over 5 years that was offered at the time. I'm not paying any interest so there is absolutely zero incentive to pay it off early.

-Unfortunately, I still had to bend over and pay California sales tax and registration, no matter where the truck was purchased. The dealership, through no fault of their own, miscalculated the reg fee (not realizing CA charges all pickups a commercial weight fee) so I had to pay a little more at time of DMV paperwork, and also had to smog it. Cost of doing business here.

TL;DR: look at the big picture.
Price of truck. Including, is it what you want?
Is there anything missing that you're going to have to pay more for to have installed after delivery, or constantly wish you got?
Does it include anything extra you don't feel like paying for?
Paperwork fees, add-ons, extended warranties, tax, registration, delivery fees, loan interest. It all adds up.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
#11 ·
You are all leaving money on the table. You can rope a salesman easy by this, look for the youngest sales guy. Start with a cheap model, get the salesman excited go through the numbers and then ask what can you do if I model up? Your trade is worth what it is worth. KBB it before you get there to know where you stand and be honest with yourself about condition. Dealerships are crooked in that if YOU leave to much off the trade or on the table that is your fault not theirs, you didn't fight for it. And for Gods old and new bring your wife/GF/WE and let her be pushy about her making part of the decision. She is your best friend at a dealership and when they say there is no more left tell her to say lets go. NEVER ADD THE REBATES UNTIL THE COME TO A FINAL NUMBER ON THE TRUCK/CAR/SUV/WE! In my state the dealer fee is a BS charge to get yet another dollar out of you. It's their game doesn't mean they should win everytime.
 
#12 ·
I just went through the process and here's what I've learned.
If the truck is on the lot the discounts range all over the map depending on the dealer's situation.

If you order the truck the best discount possible is probably 11-12% off MSRP. Plus whatever rebates or incentives are available when the truck arrives. Don't let the dealer play with you on rebates. Whatever they are upon delivery you own them. Plus any increase in the MSRP. My ordered truck increased $100.00 over the MSRP at the time of my order.

When you order, make sure the dealer gives you a copy, with pricing, of what he ordered . His ordering document is called a POC (Price Order Confirmation). That will show you what kind of deal you got. Att is a picture of my redacted POC. It may help you. Note the EP (Employee Price) price, that is going to be your best discount on an ordered truck.
 

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