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2019 Ram 2500 mega cab. Silver, night edition.
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I ended up needing new breaks all the way around. I guess this is what happens when you purchase an older unit. If it really did sit for 7-8 years. Would the break unit just naturally wear and need replacing? I only have the information that the previous owner provided. The tires did look brand new, and we’re from 2013 but had a lot of cracking in the threads. I just hope the shop isn’t just saying I need new breaks and not just redoing them to do them.
 

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2015 RAM 1500 CC 4x4
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I would say there is a HIGH probability they are just saying it needs new breaks. Our TT was 23 years old when we parted ways with it in 2020 and had the original functioning brakes on it. We have had a gooseneck with dual axle brakes for 14 years same story original brakes. Both would still lock up the tires if set aggressively.

Ours were not subjected to potential corrosive road coatings or mountain terrain. They did not experience high mileage but still get around. If you take something to a shop and ask if it needs to be replaced there is a high probability its gonna need to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
T
I would say there is a HIGH probability they are just saying it needs new breaks. Our TT was 23 years old when we parted ways with it in 2020 and had the original functioning brakes on it. We have had a gooseneck with dual axle brakes for 14 years same story original brakes. Both would still lock up the tires if set aggressively.

Ours were not subjected to potential corrosive road coatings or mountain terrain. They did not experience high mileage but still get around. If you take something to a shop and ask if it needs to be replaced there is a high probability its gonna need to be replaced.
they said they were corroded and deteriorating from years of sitting. As much as I don’t want to pay to have them done. I am going on a 200 mile drive with steep grades and don’t want to take that chance. Ahh the joys of trailers.
 

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No doubt, safer to have it done than not know.

Im a cheap SOB and a tinkerer by nature. A few minutes with a jack and some hand tools and you could see for yourself. I know not everyone is into that kind of thing, but it makes my world go round. In the end you made the right call checking or having it checked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I am right there with you. I am cheap as well. My kids even tell me how cheap I am, all the time. 😂, I just don’t have that equipment or space to do it my self. or the time with such short notice. I will be resealing my own TPO roof though. Not going to pay anyone to do that.
 

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2019 RAM 1500 Tradesman 4X2 EcoDiesel
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With a gooseneck and all trailers, The closer the axles are to the hitch, the Better the turning radius...Axle placement is Everything...
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I had a gooseneck that turned like crap and It was hard to get into small driveway entrances without tearing down mail boxes or gates ...I sold that one ...
It was a 35ft deck 40ft overall length ..The axles where almost all the way to the back of the trailer...I Hated that trailer...It was A Beautiful Trailer Just handled like crap ...

RV 5th wheels axles are slightly to the rear but almost centered, They Turn and Handle Very Nice.....
Isn't the recommended pin weight for a 5th wheel 20-25% vs 10-15% tongue weight for bumper pulls? That would mean the axle(s) would be further back on the trailer. It seems like your trailer with the way-back axles would have had much higher % pin weight, which could have made for problems.
 

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Regarding trailer brakes - DO NOT OVER-GREASE.

What happens is the inner seals get blown out by the grease pressure and you don't know that. The seals open into the brake cavities. Then grease gets flung all over the brake shoes, forming a hard coating on the shoes that literally stops (hate to use that work with brakes) them from working well.

The solution is obviously new inner seals to go with total brake assembly replacement. The trouble is not only the brake shoes but the inner drums where the shoes are scraping against. If you grease responsibly, that may just be a bad thing to do. Finding the happy medium for greasing those hubs is touchy.

Now, don't ask me how I know. My current toy hauler is a 2008 model. E Trailer has complete brake assemblies at good prices. I found that out. Bummer.

** 11.4 mpg towing that toy hauler about 2,500 miles on a mountain and interstate trip the past month. The Cummins pulls easily but I pull too fast up hills and on interstates, increasing wind resistance dramatically.
 

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Over the years of having checked and maintained trailer brakes, I would recommend going with double lipped seals, definitely for boat trailers. They keep the water out and grease in. Chicago Rawhide are the company ones I use.
 

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MAS Rick you know what they call a dad who isn’t “cheap”.. broke. Remember when your parents were stupid & lacking until you had your own kids and you began to realize how wise your parents really were. See there is hope. 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
MAS Rick you know what they call a dad who isn’t “cheap”.. broke. Remember when your parents were stupid & lacking until you had your own kids and you began to realize how wise your parents really were. See there is hope. 🙂
😂 I agree
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Regarding trailer brakes - DO NOT OVER-GREASE.

What happens is the inner seals get blown out by the grease pressure and you don't know that. The seals open into the brake cavities. Then grease gets flung all over the brake shoes, forming a hard coating on the shoes that literally stops (hate to use that work with brakes) them from working well.

The solution is obviously new inner seals to go with total brake assembly replacement. The trouble is not only the brake shoes but the inner drums where the shoes are scraping against. If you grease responsibly, that may just be a bad thing to do. Finding the happy medium for greasing those hubs is touchy.

Now, don't ask me how I know. My current toy hauler is a 2008 model. E Trailer has complete brake assemblies at good prices. I found that out. Bummer.

** 11.4 mpg towing that toy hauler about 2,500 miles on a mountain and interstate trip the past month. The Cummins pulls easily but I pull too fast up hills and on interstates, increasing wind resistance dramatically.
[/QUOTE
That is 100% what happened to mine. The shop told me the previous owner had pumped so much grease into them that the seals ruptured. Also got grease all over the break pads and drum. Along with the interior springs and other components. He tried cleaning the drums but opted for new ones. Said it would take him longer to clean them. And the price difference was minimal. He did show me the old break system, the pads were Literally brand new from sitting and never being used. But some times too lube is also not good. I’ll remember that for the bedroom. 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
That’s also what happened to my breaks. The previous owner pumped to Much grease. Over all the shop said new breaks, seals and bearings. So I am good to go. I guess to much lube can be a bad thing. But remember that doesn’t apply in the bed room. 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Regarding trailer brakes - DO NOT OVER-GREASE.

What happens is the inner seals get blown out by the grease pressure and you don't know that. The seals open into the brake cavities. Then grease gets flung all over the brake shoes, forming a hard coating on the shoes that literally stops (hate to use that work with brakes) them from working well.

The solution is obviously new inner seals to go with total brake assembly replacement. The trouble is not only the brake shoes but the inner drums where the shoes are scraping against. If you grease responsibly, that may just be a bad thing to do. Finding the happy medium for greasing those hubs is touchy.

Now, don't ask me how I know. My current toy hauler is a 2008 model. E Trailer has complete brake assemblies at good prices. I found that out. Bummer.

** 11.4 mpg towing that toy hauler about 2,500 miles on a mountain and interstate trip the past month. The Cummins pulls easily but I pull too fast up hills and on interstates, increasing wind resistance dramatically.
Also how do you know how much grease?
 

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My opinion, since the inner seals are not visible to see, is just a couple pumps "on occasion". Brakes do not mate well with grease. That is a fact. Pump grease in and the seals blow out the back. Well, they can also blow out the front.

If you have a form of Bearing Buddy, stop when the spring just starts to compress. Even that may be too much. Now I just pump a couple times and look to see there is no compression. Maybe every couple to three thousand miles at most do I do that.

Here is a case when it may be better to not have grazable hubs. Just take out the bearings, slap some grease on both inner and outer, then put the mess back together with proper torque. Oh ... that is a Royal PIA of dirty work. Agree so see the paragraph above.
 
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I shoot a few pumps in a couple times a year. I repacked them a few years ago when I did the backing plates. I slathered some fresh grease into the void between the bearings and called it a day.

I also check the hubs during every tow. I just feel for temperature. So far so good and they barely get warm.
 
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