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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Performed a drain and fill on the transmission this weekend, drives smoother now. I'm at 100k miles I could feel the difference. Wish I did it sooner.

I used Valvoline Synthetic Maxlife ATF, needed 5 quarts. Walmart $17.91 a gallon.

Tools:
8mm right angle allen key (socket won't fit)
10mm allen socket for the drain plug.

I did one bone head mistake, when I went to loosen the fill plug with the engine off, it was tight, I broke it loose and decided to remove it before draining. It poured out fluid, doh... Spun the plug back in.

Drain the trans, went to fill it, about 2 quarts in started pouring out... more fluid on the floor.

Start the engine put the remaining amount in till it dribbles out... more fluid on the floor.

Ran through the level check procedure, took out the fill plug gave it an extra pump of fluid, level was already fine, more fluid on the floor.

Buy some pig mats or put down some cardboard for this job.

Next time i'll change the pan, which I like the OEM pan more, has the magnets installed to trap metal particles, ATP pan doesn't have magnets.
 

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You did a major boo boo. There are multiple posts on this forum detailing the proper procedure for draining and re-filling the transmission. In short you can drain the transmission at any temperature. Never touch the fill plug while the transmission is full and/or cold. Only loosen that fill plug after bringing the transmission up to about 115* and going through the proper sequence of changing gears while doing that.

As for filling you ONLY used 5 quarts on at least an 8 quart fill? Wrong again. To properly fill you again fill to the top of that fill plug. Then put the plug back in. Now you again go through the proper temperature and transmission shifting procedure while the temperature level is below that 115* range. Now you can open that fill plug again and add another 2-3 quarts BEFORE the temperature gets much above that 115* range. it takes about 8 quarts done properly. There is no way you can check the level unless you first get things cold then start the engine, go through the shifting procedure and then check when things are at the right temperature.

Real PIA. Do some reading on the topic here. You may have not done it properly and do not have it properly filled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You did a major boo boo. There are multiple posts on this forum detailing the proper procedure for draining and re-filling the transmission. In short you can drain the transmission at any temperature. Never touch the fill plug while the transmission is full and/or cold. Only loosen that fill plug after bringing the transmission up to about 115* and going through the proper sequence of changing gears while doing that.

As for filling you ONLY used 5 quarts on at least an 8 quart fill? Wrong again. To properly fill you again fill to the top of that fill plug. Then put the plug back in. Now you again go through the proper temperature and transmission shifting procedure while the temperature level is below that 115* range. Now you can open that fill plug again and add another 2-3 quarts BEFORE the temperature gets much above that 115* range. it takes about 8 quarts done properly. There is no way you can check the level unless you first get things cold then start the engine, go through the shifting procedure and then check when things are at the right temperature.

Real PIA. Do some reading on the topic here. You may have not done it properly and do not have it properly filled.
Have you done this procedure yourself or did you have someone else do it?
 

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Oil Burner , did you go thru the steps in this tutorial , some important temperature range when checking level
of oïl after refill , if it gets a little warmer , the fluids gain volume and over flow , there is also the detail of bringing transmission up to temp ,
to make the thermal bypass valve open and bring back any air in the lines that are going to the oïl cooler in front of the rad ,
after that recheck level when temp is back within the needed temperature range .

Oil Burner , did you go thru the steps in this tutorial , some important temperature range when checking level
of oïl after refill , if it gets a little warmer , the fluids gain volume and over flow , there is also the detail of bringing transmission up to temp ,
to make the thermal bypass valve open and bring back any air in the lines that are going to the oïl cooler in front of the rad ,
after that recheck level when temp is back within the needed temperature range .

the double check is mentioned in here , starting at 12:15 :

..and ZF instruction in link :
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Followed all those steps. Drove around till it hit 172*/80C trans temp, past the point it takes the thermostat to open... Jeep has trans temp on the cluster. Then let it cool down and ran through the procedure again.

When I drained the transmission I measured what came out.... 4.5 quarts... add what came out when I removed the fill plug... pretty close to 5 quarts... Have no clue where Captainmal is talking about 8 quarts... He didn't even use 8 quarts for his drain and fill????

You did a major boo boo. There are multiple posts on this forum detailing the proper procedure for draining and re-filling the transmission.
BTW... I mentioned this to help someone else, so why are you judging me for something you did yourself?

For a fill I would dump the drain plug first. 10mm hex socket is fine. Pull the plug and dump. Never touch the fill plug cold. NEVER, The proper fluid level is inches ABOVE that fill plug cold. Pull the fill plug and you get a mess. I know. I did that yesterday.
.

https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/diy-how-section/43258-how-change-transmission-fluid-check.html
 

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Performed a drain and fill on the transmission this weekend, drives smoother now. I'm at 100k miles I could feel the difference. Wish I did it sooner.

I used Valvoline Synthetic Maxlife ATF, needed 5 quarts. Walmart $17.91 a gallon.

Tools:
8mm right angle allen key (socket won't fit)
10mm allen socket for the drain plug.

I did one bone head mistake, when I went to loosen the fill plug with the engine off, it was tight, I broke it loose and decided to remove it before draining. It poured out fluid, doh... Spun the plug back in.

Drain the trans, went to fill it, about 2 quarts in started pouring out... more fluid on the floor.

Start the engine put the remaining amount in till it dribbles out... more fluid on the floor.

Ran through the level check procedure, took out the fill plug gave it an extra pump of fluid, level was already fine, more fluid on the floor.

Buy some pig mats or put down some cardboard for this job.

Next time i'll change the pan, which I like the OEM pan more, has the magnets installed to trap metal particles, ATP pan doesn't have magnets.
Thank you for the detailed post. I learn best through trial and error which is why this forum is the best. Other's trial has greatly reduced my personal chance for error. Kazimodo is the volunteer thesaurus of the forum and keeps and index of prior threads. I appreciate his efforts; save me time and brings up tools and references from years ago.

I purchased discounted ZF fluid and Mopar pan from local dealer who matched Amazon Prime. My longtime Transmission shop charged my 1 hour labor ($95...under $500 OTD. From my understanding the only way to do a true FLUSH is to tap line anf push pressurized fluid through on this Trans hence the lower fill volume vs capacity. I could be wrong however 2 different shops said this. They also are NOT EXPERTS with ZFs...rarely have seen failed ZFs out of warranty and majority never change fluid because they don' reach 15k or trade before truck does. Others do not understand the 'lifetime' also means at 150k IF still yet others simply refuse period.

They have some form a lazer tool that measures level when full for Trans w/o dipsticks. Overfilling can burst gaskets...mine took 5.5 qts of ZF. Since shop recommended 6 I bout 7 and returned 1 to dealer. Have 1/2 qtz ZF in garage. Changed at 148,500 and sent sample to Blackstone for the fun of it. Now at 158,768 and trans temp dropped by 4-6 degrees post change. UOA on trans fluid below...

View attachment ZF Lab.pdf
 

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Followed all those steps. Drove around till it hit 172*/80C trans temp, past the point it takes the thermostat to open... Jeep has trans temp on the cluster. Then let it cool down and ran through the procedure again.

When I drained the transmission I measured what came out.... 4.5 quarts... add what came out when I removed the fill plug... pretty close to 5 quarts... Have no clue where Captainmal is talking about 8 quarts... He didn't even use 8 quarts for his drain and fill????


BTW... I mentioned this to help someone else, so why are you judging me for something you did yourself?




https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/diy-how-section/43258-how-change-transmission-fluid-check.html
What's with all the "putting words in my mouth"?

I did the transmission refill myself. Major post on that procedure here. Do the search, find and read. Also used about 8 1/2 quarts to do the complete refill. Not sure you did your homework on that service but surely I am not going to take more of my time and effort to help and wind up in an argument. Do your own thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for the detailed post. I learn best through trial and error which is why this forum is the best. Other's trial has greatly reduced my personal chance for error. Kazimodo is the volunteer thesaurus of the forum and keeps and index of prior threads. I appreciate his efforts; save me time and brings up tools and references from years ago.

I purchased discounted ZF fluid and Mopar pan from local dealer who matched Amazon Prime. My longtime Transmission shop charged my 1 hour labor ($95...under $500 OTD. From my understanding the only way to do a true FLUSH is to tap line anf push pressurized fluid through on this Trans hence the lower fill volume vs capacity. I could be wrong however 2 different shops said this. They also are NOT EXPERTS with ZFs...rarely have seen failed ZFs out of warranty and majority never change fluid because they don' reach 15k or trade before truck does. Others do not understand the 'lifetime' also means at 150k IF still yet others simply refuse period.

They have some form a lazer tool that measures level when full for Trans w/o dipsticks. Overfilling can burst gaskets...mine took 5.5 qts of ZF. Since shop recommended 6 I bout 7 and returned 1 to dealer. Have 1/2 qtz ZF in garage. Changed at 148,500 and sent sample to Blackstone for the fun of it. Now at 158,768 and trans temp dropped by 4-6 degrees post change. UOA on trans fluid below...

View attachment 74822
True, the only way you can flush a transmission is to remove both the cooler lines and connect them to another fluid source basically, generally transmission flushes involve 12 quarts of fluid, not crazy about flushing a transmission, specially 100k+ miles, drain and fill is more than enough to replenish the additive, the brown color in the fluid is clutch and band material, having clutch material in the fluid helps create the right amount of friction. In rare circumstances an old vehicle with very brown trans fluid, fully flushed will slip after a transmission flush.

Overfilled transmission will cause the fluid to cavitate, the red fluid turns bright orange and can cause slippage in clutch/band application, air is not compressible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Since he didn't change the filter, there's probably a quart of old juice there. Seems like most of us are able to squeeze in juuuuuuuuust about 6 quarts.
One thing I thought, mine is 4x2. The tail housing is different than 4x4, not huge but may account for a slight difference in the fluid quantity.
 

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....., having clutch material in the fluid helps create the right amount of friction. In rare circumstances an old vehicle with very brown trans fluid, fully flushed will slip after a transmission flush.

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then making extra efforts to drain the torque converter would only remove usefull clutch material in suspension in oïl .....
so , I guess no extra work for actual negative result. ((just wondering , this is technical stuff )) .
 

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I just changed my pan and fluid yesterday as well, at 63k miles. Mine only took about 5-5.5 quarts as well. Easy peezy procedure. Only issue I had was the hard metal lines on the front side of the pan area, getting to those bolts was a little pain in the butt, careful as not to strip those torx bolts. I used valvoline max life ATF. Drove 75 miles already, no change in temps, but all is well! My temps have always been "normal". 175-180. towing 190.
 

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Followed all those steps. Drove around till it hit 172*/80C trans temp, past the point it takes the thermostat to open... Jeep has trans temp on the cluster. Then let it cool down and ran through the procedure again.

When I drained the transmission I measured what came out.... 4.5 quarts... add what came out when I removed the fill plug... pretty close to 5 quarts... Have no clue where Captainmal is talking about 8 quarts... He didn't even use 8 quarts for his drain and fill????


BTW... I mentioned this to help someone else, so why are you judging me for something you did yourself?




https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/diy-how-section/43258-how-change-transmission-fluid-check.html
What's with all the "putting words in my mouth"?

I did the transmission refill myself. Major post on that procedure here. Do the search, find and read. Also used about 8 1/2 quarts to do the complete refill. Not sure you did your homework on that service but surely I am not going to take more of my time and effort to help and wind up in an argument. Do your own thing.
If you take a careful look, Oil Burner provided the link to your write-up and was just mentioning what you had posted

"Yesterday I filled to overfill cold and buttoned up. Only took 3 quarts. Today after the shift cycle, I opened the fill plug and was shocked when nothing came out. Started to fill and another full quart went in, then another and then after 2/3ds of the third, it started to dribble out. The transmission did take about 5 2/3 qts. total. My cold fill yesterday was at least 2 1/2 quarts low, even though it looked full. "

Some of us took your post as using 5 2/3 qts. total and not 8+ quarts.
 

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..
then making extra efforts to drain the torque converter would only remove usefull clutch material in suspension in oïl .....
so , I guess no extra work for actual negative result. ((just wondering , this is technical stuff )) .
My trans shop did say this was possible when I had them service the 2000 F150 with OEM fluid my dad gave my daughter with only 76k on it in 2015 after he bought his ED. Their preference was to leave it alone. Problem was this past March started skipping in OD on highway runs. So was forced to do filter/fluid and the F150 has been smooth sailing since.

Seems there is a fine line with over changing fluid wasting money VS doing nothing and waiting if/when a problem develops.
 

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If you take a careful look, Oil Burner provided the link to your write-up and was just mentioning what you had posted

"Yesterday I filled to overfill cold and buttoned up. Only took 3 quarts. Today after the shift cycle, I opened the fill plug and was shocked when nothing came out. Started to fill and another full quart went in, then another and then after 2/3ds of the third, it started to dribble out. The transmission did take about 5 2/3 qts. total. My cold fill yesterday was at least 2 1/2 quarts low, even though it looked full. "

Some of us took your post as using 5 2/3 qts. total and not 8+ quarts.
As I read through the thread...this comment would have pissed me off period.

ONLY used 5 quarts on at least an 8 quart fill? Wrong again

Working for a national/international organization, Communication is more of an art than a given...thought the Lovely Bride and I speak English....after 25 years I still do not know how to communicate seamlessly with her. If others have perfected the art of Communication between a MAN and WOMAN please PM me. I might even send you money if it works...
 
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