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Hi All,

I am just about to hit 100k miles on my Eco Diesel and am looking to do Transmission filter and fluid change. Does it need it? Has anyone done one and how did the fluid look? Where to buy the cheapest or is it important to get Mopar part? I saw a couple poor youtube videos out there showing how they did it.

I also am curious about any other maintenance suggestions. I have already changed transfer case fluid and differential fluids. I also obviously do both oil and fluid filter changes regularly.


Looking forward to comment and recommendations.
 

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Hi All,

I am just about to hit 100k miles on my Eco Diesel and am looking to do Transmission filter and fluid change. Does it need it? Has anyone done one and how did the fluid look? Where to buy the cheapest or is it important to get Mopar part? I saw a couple poor youtube videos out there showing how they did it.

I also am curious about any other maintenance suggestions. I have already changed transfer case fluid and differential fluids. I also obviously do both oil and fluid filter changes regularly.


Looking forward to comment and recommendations.
Changed mine at 148,500 attached UOA below. Replaced with Mopar pan not larger aftermarket. Someone on here bought 2 Mopar pans 1 for an 8HP70 and the other for 8HP45. Different parts #, looked identical, difference in $$, don't recall which one they used.

I bought Mopar ZF fluid then Ziggypooh said he bought the actual ZF fluid itself for about $10 less per qt. Same fluid...different labeled bottle.

Lots of opinions mine being...use ZF fluid and not Valvoline. Took supplies to Trans Shop charged me 1 hour labor took 5.5 qts. Temp post change 2-4* cooler so I am sure they did put enough fluid in.

Your the guy who will NOT challenge fluids life expectancy (nor I) so 125-135 should be fine. Personally will pull a sample at 250k for UOA and hope for 300k+ service based on results.

View attachment ZF Lab.pdf
 

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IMG_5956 by Larry Malinoski, on Flickr

This is what I used when I did mine. It was a difficult experience doing it at home without a lift. If you are going to try, read the information about just how to do it. After draining you cannot just remove the fill plug and fill to the top. There is a shifting and heating sequence you have to go through to get it properly filled.

As for the transmission filter, it's part of the pan. I gave it much thought, finding out how darn expensive a new pan with filter is. Then said "NUTS" to that.
 
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one bit of info I found when reading on this , " don't go out of your way to try and remove all the old oïl "
the little abrasive particules in suspension in the transmission oïl serve a purpose , you need some in there with the new oïl .
..
sort of like changing water in an aquarium , keep some of the old water
..
here is the ZF tutorial in the PDF link .
..
a thread with info : https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum...3218-how-change-transmission-fluid-check.html
..
a video to Watch , to make sure you check fill level twice , and why , explained starting at around 12:15 :
 

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Lots of opinions mine being...use ZF fluid and not Valvoline.
Why is this?

I ordered the oversized PPE trans pan with replaceable filter. My reasoning, 2 or more trans services and you're money ahead over replacing a stock trans pan each service. Extra capacity and cooling helps. Plastic is an insulator, while the aluminum pan will dissipate heat.
 
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I bought my stuff on Amazon. Got the part numbers here and did a search.

I used the ZF fluid because I figured that the manufacturer would have the correct juice. And since it doesn't get changed very often, I wasn't overly concerned with the cost. But it is cheaper in the "7 pack" they have on Amazon. The only problem is that I was okayed to return the unused liter and still have not been refunded several months later. It was an outside vendor selling the stuff on Amazon.
 

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Why is this?

I ordered the oversized PPE trans pan with replaceable filter. My reasoning, 2 or more trans services and you're money ahead over replacing a stock trans pan each service. Extra capacity and cooling helps. Plastic is an insulator, while the aluminum pan will dissipate heat.
Several reason from my perspective:

1). 8HP's do not have the MS Spec...that is an Asian and Mopar spec.
2). Valvoline is a thicker fluid than ZF...IDK the bore size of the fluid passages within the German Trans...I do know German Engineers are VERY precise by nature.
3). Valvoline Max Life is (IMO) superior in quality/price point ratio to other domestic fluids and use in my F150, Patriot CVT, and beloved 2002 X.
4). Valvoline is 'fully synthetic' where as ZF is 100% synthetic. 100% synthetic is a higher grade base stock oil...see Amsoil vs. delo 5w40 for base stock definitions (Delo5w40 superior in quality/price point ratio).
5). PPE $120+ and 3 additional qtz ZF $100+ = an extra $220 at my first 150K service was not rational to me.
6). PPE is based on the assumption the 3.0L will not poop a bearing out tailpipe and/or truck will not be totaled in an accident by next service at 300k.
7). My next servive at 275-300k (depending on UAO sample at 250k) will cost me $450 - $220 = $230 out of pocket with next service due in the 400-425,000k range.

My personal preference in vehicle ownership is to service playing long ball versus small ball and not to out think oil and auto engineers. In retrospect I did waste $300 for a full coolant flush and exchange at 150k because I factored in the miles and NOT age of the coolant itself.

Have always run my vehicles hard and fast but never abusively. 252k on an 2008 Genesis 3.8 with a perfect UOA (Mobil-1) at 245,000 before it was murdered on I-10 by a swerving tractor trailer. 274k on my X with perfect UOA (t6 now Delo 5w40) at 273k. 162k on my 2016 ED with immaculate UOA at 157.5k (Delo 5w40 proven superior to T6...Amsoil 0w40 Signature Series now at 160K oil change).

Purchased a new Mercury Cougar in 1988...sold in 1998 with 152K using Castrol 20w50, engine ran perfect...car spent lifetime in Florida. My dad said to use that oil...I was 18 at purchase and had no idea what any of it meant.

Religiously did oil changes every 3,500 miles so thicker oil never hurt engine. In my opinion the Valvoline Max life will not hurt our 8HP70's either however, I certainly would not attempt 135-150k runs if it was in my transmission. Honestly would be very interested in seeing a UOA with the Valvoline from our truck with 100k of the fluid.

This insight certainly would be consideration for me to change my opinion. If our trans were not an exotic German based setup with the Valvoline spec acceptable I would without question welcome the use of the V.
 

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I thought someone on here posted a while back that the Valvoline does meet the specks required for the transmission?

I have read it several times that the Valvoline is thicker, but I am curious about that, I remember changing the trans fluid on my wifes escape with the Valvoline and thinking the stuff was as thin as red water.
 

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^^^ I did in the past post the MS spec was on the Valvoline Max Life bottle. Not sure if I am the only person who posted that or not. Later while trying to verify IF the MS spec was comparable with the ZF I could not find anywhere it was. The stealership told me if was not...checked at several...still did not trust them....

Ultimately I did speak with a Tech who was 'certified' to work on the ZF and he stated in training he was taught the MS and ZF were different. If they put the ZF accidentally in the Asian or 68RFE is could result in damage to these transmissions.

Since the new information concluded our 8HP70 is not rated for the MS spec, I have clarified. Others with this knowledge choose to use Valvoline anyway resulting in ZERO harm to their transmission.

IMO Valvoline should be OK however personally don't want to test b/c plan to keep truck many years and replace engines/parts if/when needed. Rides/Looks new and long paid off.

If I led anyone astray OR am wrong in a post regarding facts (not opinions) please know it is not intentional and accept my apology.
 

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Hi All,

I am just about to hit 100k miles on my Eco Diesel and am looking to do Transmission filter and fluid change. Does it need it? Has anyone done one and how did the fluid look? Where to buy the cheapest or is it important to get Mopar part? I saw a couple poor youtube videos out there showing how they did it.

I also am curious about any other maintenance suggestions. I have already changed transfer case fluid and differential fluids. I also obviously do both oil and fluid filter changes regularly.


Looking forward to comment and recommendations.
Here is a pretty detailed video which covers everything about this subject
 

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Hi All,

I am just about to hit 100k miles on my Eco Diesel and am looking to do Transmission filter and fluid change. Does it need it? Has anyone done one and how did the fluid look? Where to buy the cheapest or is it important to get Mopar part? I saw a couple poor youtube videos out there showing how they did it.

I also am curious about any other maintenance suggestions. I have already changed transfer case fluid and differential fluids. I also obviously do both oil and fluid filter changes regularly.


Looking forward to comment and recommendations.
Hi there is a new (pretty long) but very detailed video on this subject... lots of good info in it. Fluid specs, part numbers, and options for servicing... worth checking out
 

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Changed mine at 148,500 attached UOA below. Replaced with Mopar pan not larger aftermarket. Someone on here bought 2 Mopar pans 1 for an 8HP70 and the other for 8HP45. Different parts #, looked identical, difference in $$, don't recall which one they used.

I bought Mopar ZF fluid then Ziggypooh said he bought the actual ZF fluid itself for about $10 less per qt. Same fluid...different labeled bottle.

Lots of opinions mine being...use ZF fluid and not Valvoline. Took supplies to Trans Shop charged me 1 hour labor took 5.5 qts. Temp post change 2-4* cooler so I am sure they did put enough fluid in.

Your the guy who will NOT challenge fluids life expectancy (nor I) so 125-135 should be fine. Personally will pull a sample at 250k for UOA and hope for 300k+ service based on results.

View attachment 75412
 

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Shawnclan,

I have a 2016 ED GDE 2.0 4x4 Lonestar, with 151K on it now, gong to do my first Trans fluid swap, (thank you for all the info). I see that you have 231K on yours... Amazing, I've had no problems with mine except the tone ring failure. I am encourage by your mileage.. can you elaborate about any major repairs you may have encountered, as I am planning to keep mine for a while and am scared about all the mechanical breakdowns I read about. I.E. bearing failure, cam sprocket stripping, etc... I love my truck, and its in immaculate condition, I was considering trading it in at this mileage but again you and your mileage are encouraging me to keep it. Please share any thoughts... thank you (Sean R. Ramman10)
 

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I went with the PPE pan because I go off road and the ZF has the cheapest plastic pan I have ever seen on a full size truck. If you don't go off road it will work fine.
 

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Im not sure if that is a reason to go with PPE or not? Doesnt the PPE pan ride lower? While it is "plastic" the pans are not flimsy thin, I wonder if you would have better luck with the plastic pan flexing or scraping a fin off and not failing than the aluminum pan cracking etc. With aftermarket replacements available for less than $30 its a whole new ball game.
 
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