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Good morning all,

I have had a couple of turbo under boost codes now. I think they were P0299 but not really sure as the paperwork is in my truck at the dealership. Very happy with the truck 2016 Laramie 4X4 I will have had it 2 years coming up in August. It has just a touch over 52K miles and this is the only issue I have ever had. My dealer, whom I am happy with as well, has told me they need to replace the turbo due to the amount of "dirt" that built up on the turbo sensor they cleaned the first time I had this code. Only a few hundred miles and the sensor is dirty again and he said it would ordinarily take about 20 to 30K to see that kind of dirt on that sensor so they are gonna replace the turbo. It is covered by the power train warranty so I have no issues there. He says they will have to remove the bed and the cab to change the turbo. My initial thought is OH CRAP!!! my truck will never be the same again, as that seems like a ton of work and with as many electronics and therefore connectors that seems scary.

My question for you all is this. Are there questions I should ask my dealer before, during and after this procedure? Are there things to check/look for when I get the truck back? Anyone on here had this procedure and have any good or bad results? I have a long trip coming up at the end of June. From OKC to Madison WI pulling a stock trailer with a small heifer and all the required gear to be at a livestock show for a week with my family and this calf. Not really looking forward and I am a little uneasy about a trip like this so soon after such a major repair. While it will be one heck of a test, I don't want to have my wife, daughter and her calf stuck on the side of the road somewhere between here and there. This is by far the best truck I have owned in a long time and I am looking forward to many more miles. I have not taken the step of a GDE tune as yet. It is on the radar and was planning on doing it before the trip but this may or may not change that. I have read the numerous threads about it and think it would definitely help, I have also seen good and bad stories about warranties and such with that tune. I suppose it depends on if you keep your original ecm and install it before taking it to the dealer. Thanks in advance for any input you may have.
 

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Glad to hear at least repair covered under warranty...
 

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My dealer, whom I am happy with as well, has told me they need to replace the turbo due to the amount of "dirt" that built up on the turbo sensor they cleaned the first time I had this code. Only a few hundred miles and the sensor is dirty again and he said it would ordinarily take about 20 to 30K to see that kind of dirt on that sensor so they are gonna replace the turbo.
This doesn't make any sense to me. So, how is the turbo bad? Is the theory that there is something wrong on the exhaust side - where the turbo is not coming up to speed? Or, do they think the exhaust side is OK but the problem is on the compressor side? I simply don't understand their "theory" as to why they think the turbo is bad. What sensor are they talking about?
 

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The boost sensor is in your intake manifold its called manifold absolute sensor or map sensor. Also there is no reason to pull the bed even for an entire engine swap but pulling the cab is a lot faster then dropping the transmission and exhaust manifolds.. It sounds like your service writer has no clue what there talking about, hopefully the technician does.
 

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This doesn't make any sense to me. So, how is the turbo bad? Is the theory that there is something wrong on the exhaust side - where the turbo is not coming up to speed? Or, do they think the exhaust side is OK but the problem is on the compressor side? I simply don't understand their "theory" as to why they think the turbo is bad. What sensor are they talking about?
I unfortunately don't know the answer but I will be calling to ask for some clarification. The first time it was in with this code they told me that the protocol was to clean the turbo sensor and replace the air and fuel filters. The second time (a couple weeks later) they told me what the original post states, that the sensor was dirty again and should not be and the protocol (i assume something in the service manual) was to replace the turbo. Both instances when the code appeared, I had been parked and the engine off for a few minutes and when I started my truck to go about my business the service electronic throttle control message came up in my display along with the red lightning bolt indicator and the yellow engine indicator. I am going to follow up with them for a little better explanation. Thanks for your input, that is exactly what I needed to know since I am not sure exactly how all this works..
 

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I get a sense that your dealership lacks experience with diesels.
A gas mechanic will always reel with shock at the condition of diesel exhaust systems.
You may like them, but I’m doubting their tech’s ability.
 

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Still not sure what sensor they are speaking about. If it is the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, I'm not sure how a "dirty sensor" can be attributed to a bad turbo. (Not saying that it is not possible, I just can't get my mind around the theory they have.)

Further, "Both instances when the code appeared, I had been parked and the engine off for a few minutes and when I started my truck to go about my business the service electronic throttle control message came up in my display along with the red lightning bolt indicator and the yellow engine indicator.." This DOES NOT sound like it can be contributed to a bad turbo. Once again, I suppose it may be possible but to me it sounds really improbable. This, and knowing the dealership may be motivated to dive in and get some profit margin on warranty work on FCA's nickle. But my chief concern is that they are not yet on the right problem and chasing this wild hare of a bad turbo isn't likely going to resolve your problem.
 

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Still not sure what sensor they are speaking about. If it is the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, I'm not sure how a "dirty sensor" can be attributed to a bad turbo. (Not saying that it is not possible, I just can't get my mind around the theory they have.)

Further, "Both instances when the code appeared, I had been parked and the engine off for a few minutes and when I started my truck to go about my business the service electronic throttle control message came up in my display along with the red lightning bolt indicator and the yellow engine indicator.." This DOES NOT sound like it can be contributed to a bad turbo. Once again, I suppose it may be possible but to me it sounds really improbable. This, and knowing the dealership may be motivated to dive in and get some profit margin on warranty work on FCA's nickle. But my chief concern is that they are not yet on the right problem and chasing this wild hare of a bad turbo isn't likely going to resolve your problem.
A bad turbo can absolutely cause excessive soot. Electronics mitigate that, but basically - the ecu is programmed to deliver a certain amount of fuel given temp, RPM, pressure etc... if the turbo is taking a long time to spool or not quite spooling enough to generate the needed MAP you can get excess soot (un-burned fuel).

Personally, i'd ask the dealer to change the sensor first before ripping the truck apart. Especially if no codes are thrown. If that doesn't fix it, Turbo is a plausible next step. Surprised they aren't doing any data-logging to check the boost pressures under load.
 

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Since you do not have GDE, your EGR system has been dumping soot into the engine and more into the exhaust.

Just wondering if cleaning out the EGR system might help. More help would be to shut the darn thing off both physically and electronically. Call GDE and ask if they have an opinion on your problem. They are quite helpful even if you do not have their product.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Since you do not have GDE, your EGR system has been dumping soot into the engine and more into the exhaust.

Just wondering if cleaning out the EGR system might help. More help would be to shut the darn thing off both physically and electronically. Call GDE and ask if they have an opinion on your problem. They are quite helpful even if you do not have their product.
Thanks,
Based on all the reading I have done here the last week or so I should have installed GDE from the beginning, I did call and ask the dealer if my EGR valve was a possible problem and did it need to be cleaned or replaced. I will give GDE a call.
 

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Got my truck back yesterday morning. Great news is that the bill for a new turbo and all the associated seals and gaskets was $0.00. The dealership had provided me with a loaner truck while mine was in the shop for repair, also $0.00, and since they had it for 3 weeks the guy said he had it detailed, washed, vacuumed, etc. Was in great shape when I got it back. Only had it a little over 24 hours and the first 200 miles have been good. Seems to run well and I guess only time will tell if it stays fixed. The work order states that there was an "actuator sticking in the bore" of the turbo charger. I did ask them repeatedly to check/clean the egr system and they told me they did that, as that was a "no brainier since we had everything apart" It fails to list that on the work order however. I have contacted GDE and will be sending them the required photos of the VIN and injector codes probably tomorrow at the latest. Thanks for all the input and I hope this episode is over but we shall have to wait and see. Looking forward to many more miles!!
 

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If you don't mind sharing, which dealer did you use? I've used BM on NW Expwy and they seemed pretty competent and treated me well when I had an oil leak at 10K even though I didn't buy the truck from them, but work closer to them. I was using them to do my oil changes, but at 300 bucks a pop for lube, def, and TR, I started doing it myself.
 

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If you don't mind sharing, which dealer did you use? I've used BM on NW Expwy and they seemed pretty competent and treated me well when I had an oil leak at 10K even though I didn't buy the truck from them, but work closer to them. I was using them to do my oil changes, but at 300 bucks a pop for lube, def, and TR, I started doing it myself.
I bought the truck in Shawnee at Automax and they are the ones that I have taken it too for all things, other than the new tires I put on about 60 days ago. They do my oil changes and tire rotations. I bought a package that included 4 oil changes, (oil, filter, labor, rotate tires) and it cost me just a little over $400 for the package. I have had to pay for fuel filters, air filters and things of that nature when they were needed in addition to the package price. I have been very happy with the service department overall and they seem to be competent on the diesel. Other than this last issue with the under boost, I have only had one other issue with the truck and that was a week after I drove it off the lot the battery died. They changed it and other than routine service it has given me 53K good trouble free miles.
 
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