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Discussion Starter #1
Tried a search but maybe I'm searching too specific terms. Recently noticed an odd noise under rather specific conditions.

Truck warmed up completely, oil and coolant 195+, at ~2k rpm with ~8PSI boost per Torque. When I hit that RPM and Boost PSI I hear a noise that sounds like two pieces of something vibrating just right, sort of like when you put the blade of grass between your thumbs and blow. Go to higher RPM and higher boost and it sorta fades but is noticeable still, fall under 2k RPM and lower than 8PSI boost and it goes away. I'm guessing some piping on the intake side post turbo being loose? Thoughts?
 

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2015 Outdoorsman EcoD CC w/6.4' 4X4
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I'd look for a loose heat shield. It could be a crack in one of the turbo tubes going to/from the intercooler. If you try to make it happen while parked, have some one rev the engine while you listen to see where it's coming from. Check the exhaust flange bolts also, seems a few have had broken ones of those.
 

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Yeah , some have seen that exhaust leak melt the wiring going to the DEF injector , $$$$$
easy to look at , to avoid the bad news .
 

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May also want to check your idlers on the serpentine belt, my wifes son had his lock up and he burnt the belt off it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Broken flange bolt makes sense if it really is, that gasket if intact could make that vibrating noise. I'll crawl under tomorrow with the rain in the garage to peak at it. What type of hardware is best if one or more are broken? I would think if one is broke replace them all, probably a new gasket too?
 

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see what others did ... 2 threads
1 -
2 - Broken Exhaust Bolt
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After I posted again I went searching more, I should have luck with using AEM warranty hopefully, if not then will have to follow that. One stud is definitely broken though can't see the actual break, there is some separation on the side away from the def injector. Thanks all for the help! Now to get it fixed somehow?
 

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Thanks all for the help! Now to get it fixed somehow?
If you have to do it yourself , drive 2 wheels on passenger side on 2 pieces of wood to give you room to work
  • a hammer and punch to try and remove the studs from one side ,
  • if that does not work ,a metal saw or better yet a grinder with a metal cutting wheel to cut off the heads of the stud ( round head ) ,
  • a drill to make the holes where the studs are ,
  • hardware store for 3 graded bolts and nuts , the gasket is probably still there , if not get another one at dealer.
  • reward = Beer.?
 

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If you have to do it yourself , drive 2 wheels on passenger side on 2 pieces of wood to give you room to work
  • a hammer and punch to try and remove the studs from one side ,
  • if that does not work ,a metal saw or better yet a grinder with a metal cutting wheel to cut off the heads of the stud ( round head ) ,
  • a drill to make the holes where the studs are ,
  • hardware store for 3 graded bolts and nuts , the gasket is probably still there , if not get another one at dealer.
  • reward = Beer.?
My gasket was was disintegrated. New one $14 Cdn.
 

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Since you had to deal with this Steve , can you tell us if the round head are '' press fit bolts '' in the flange ,
were they easy to remove to replace with bolts ???
 

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Yes. They are press fit. I was told spline type. I have yet to complete the whole job. I drilled the broken stud which was the one in the lowest position. Drilling was a pita. The other two bolts still need to be done and will be very difficult to drill as they are higher with many obstructions to get a drill up there. I was told the best way is to heat them up and pound the studs out but have yet to try this. The one replaced bolt helped but did not seal the flange completely because of the bad gasket. While I still have two feet of snow that is gradually melting, my new road and driveway is a squishy mess and it's not ready to drive the truck into the garage to work on yet.
I would leave terrible ruts that would hold rain etc.
Hopefully I will be finishing this job in the next couple weeks......driveway permitting.
 

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you could use a big clamp , heat the flange around the broken spline ,
put a big 3/4 inch socket around the round head of broken bolt ,
and use a bolt that fits inside the hole on broken nut side , to push the broken bolt out into the big socket ,
so you don't have to swing the sledgehammer under there ,
I fear the flexible part near the flange would not like the hammering ....
looking forward to this failing on my truck ..........:rolleyes:
 

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Once you break all 3 bolts which is easily done since they are already falling apart, the bellow part from the dpf muffler drops low enough to easily drill all 3 of them. Start of with a very skinny drill bit and drill right through the centre of the bolts, then use a bigger drill bit to make your life easier.. Little bit of engine oil on the tip of the drill bit also helps.
 

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Yes. They are press fit. I was told spline type. I have yet to complete the whole job. I drilled the broken stud which was the one in the lowest position. Drilling was a pita. The other two bolts still need to be done and will be very difficult to drill as they are higher with many obstructions to get a drill up there. I was told the best way is to heat them up and pound the studs out but have yet to try this. The one replaced bolt helped but did not seal the flange completely because of the bad gasket. While I still have two feet of snow that is gradually melting, my new road and driveway is a squishy mess and it's not ready to drive the truck into the garage to work on yet.
I would leave terrible ruts that would hold rain etc.
Hopefully I will be finishing this job in the next couple weeks......driveway permitting.
Just pull the scr it well make life much easier.
 
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