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So, My truck is down right now with a leaking water pump. I have the parts together to go stage 2 and I've also pieced together an external HD oil cooler that will be going behind the bumper (have you ever noticed how much space there is there?!). I figure while I have things torn apart and I'm getting dirty working on it, might as well do it all at once. I'll do my best to post pictures of everything. I'll for sure do a video as well.

My plan was to do MPG comparisons with GDE and SFT for stage 2. I have SFT stage 2 already purchased, but GDE is no longer in the game, so I won't be able to do the comparison between the 2 and just be doing one between SFT stage 1 and stage 2 for MPG.

I pulled my EGR tube today and its pretty clean, no build up. The dealer replaced it about 10k miles ago when they replaced my turbo (including all tubing), upper intake manifold and all of the seals etc. They didn't replace the EGR though, which has been leaking slightly as well. I was going to do the EGR recall, but since there isn't any info yet and I am planning on going stage 2 anyway, I figured I'll just skip it and go straght to stage 2.

If you have any requests on pictures or information about anything I am doing, let me know and I'll do my best to gather the info/pictures for you.
 

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Upper intake manifold wheres the lower one?
Theres just that one. Didn't want anyone to be confused about what I was talking about. If I do find a lower one, however, I will be sure to post about it.

(Too many GM motors owned in the past with upper/lower intake manifolds... )
 

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Tons of real estate behind the front bumper. What's your plan for airflow across the oil cooler?

Links for where you sourced the cooler and adapter plate would be useful for many here. Any plans on using an oil thermostat?
 

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So, My truck is down right now with a leaking water pump. I have the parts together to go stage 2 and I've also pieced together an external HD oil cooler that will be going behind the bumper (have you ever noticed how much space there is there?!). I figure while I have things torn apart and I'm getting dirty working on it, might as well do it all at once. I'll do my best to post pictures of everything. I'll for sure do a video as well.

My plan was to do MPG comparisons with GDE and SFT for stage 2. I have SFT stage 2 already purchased, but GDE is no longer in the game, so I won't be able to do the comparison between the 2 and just be doing one between SFT stage 1 and stage 2 for MPG.

I pulled my EGR tube today and its pretty clean, no build up. The dealer replaced it about 10k miles ago when they replaced my turbo (including all tubing), upper intake manifold and all of the seals etc. They didn't replace the EGR though, which has been leaking slightly as well. I was going to do the EGR recall, but since there isn't any info yet and I am planning on going stage 2 anyway, I figured I'll just skip it and go straght to stage 2.

If you have any requests on pictures or information about anything I am doing, let me know and I'll do my best to gather the info/pictures for you.
My only concern with mounting behind bu.per would be airflow. I saw a post in an fb group where the rams head in the grill was enough to block the cooler and make it useless.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Swap out the bumper and grill for a set from a 2009-2012. there's a slot in the bumper that's perfect for a bumper mounted oil cooler or intercooler. Or if you prefer the body color/sport look, just get a 2013+ sport bumper.

09-12
84295


2013+ sport
84296
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tons of real estate behind the front bumper. What's your plan for airflow across the oil cooler?

Links for where you sourced the cooler and adapter plate would be useful for many here. Any plans on using an oil thermostat?
I picked up the adapter plate from https://www.dandjdiesel.com/. They are local to me so I just stopped by and grabbed on. They sale the entire kit, which I didn't do because I wanted a bigger oil cooler and could build the kit myself for less. The adapter plate is about $200 I think. I ordered a thermostat for the fans and another one for the oil return. Below are links to the parts I ordered for the cooler:
Fans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MXQQW9R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Hose: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GTC6Y8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_47yZDb1EBGJJQ
Thermostat for fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XOQIV4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_37yZDbR3G7ZAM
Thermostat for oil line: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LINCY52/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_27yZDbV13NR4D
Extra fan mounting kit (not sure I'll use this but wanted it just in case):https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VR7K8S3/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_27yZDbQ67PGQG
Oil cooler I chose. I will be doing a push/pull fan setup on it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKHRTL8/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_07yZDbGS76748

Swap out the bumper and grill for a set from a 2009-2012. there's a slot in the bumper that's perfect for a bumper mounted oil cooler or intercooler. Or if you prefer the body color/sport look, just get a 2013+ sport bumper.

09-12
View attachment 84295

2013+ sport
View attachment 84296
Thats a good idea.Hadn't thought about that. I wonder if this will decrease economy slightly? But the air for the cooler would be great. I've already swapped out my grill to a mesh grill with a light bar build in. That improved airflow significantly and I saw about a 6-10 degree drop in overall temps when towing.


How many miles on your truck @Gputah?
My truck has 94k miles on it. Lots of towing. We rent trailers and I deliver, so I've towed 3 different trailers significantly this year up canyons and on the highway.


which stage 2 EGR delete kit did you choose ?
..
BTW , some info on the water pump swap in this thread ,
even from an Australian member , Barboots:
https://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/ram-1500-diesel-mechanical/62248-changed-water-pump-today.html
Yeah, I found that thread. Very helpful. I will be following that while I swap the pump.

I picked up this delete pipe and will be doing a muffler delete on my stock exhaust: https://ebay.us/gCqxek
And this EGR delete kit: https://ebay.us/1RDgSd

Found this info here: https://dieselpowerup.com/deleting-and-tuning-the-3-0l-ecodiesel-dodge-ram-1500/
 

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Nice , exact same design as the Sasquatch kit ( no longer available from Sasquatch ).
just make sure the surface is really flat on the long bracket where you bolt the front tube ,
( some ebay kits were reported to be a little curvy on that surface , and leaked ).
...
If you haven't already seen it , there is a complete "how to " for the stage 2 Sasquatch kit .
many images in it .
 

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Just hope that you are aware that you are largely flying blind with respect to your oil cooler aspirations. First point is that you need to know that the OEM oil to water coolers are very efficient particularly for their size... the fundamental reason that the OEMs favor them. However, there is really no knowledge of the true BTU capability of the cooler. This is a crucial piece of information if you seek to substitute this cooler with an oil to air cooler, you want to at least have the same BTU capability - if not more. Another very critical factor in cooler design is the delta pressure drop across the cooler "system". In the components that you have listed, the heat exchanger is a no-name, Chinese-made cooler. Not only don't you have any specifications regarding the delta pressure drop (a measure of the heat exchanger's efficiency), there is also no specifications for the BTU capability. Given the size (sq-in) of the cooler, I would have serious doubts that it could approach the BTU capability of the OEM unit.... even in optimum air-flow orientations. Regarding pressure drops - the RAM ED bottom-end failures have been well documented and FCA has taken two overt steps to mitigate the occurrence of this catastrophic failure. First, they changed their recommended oil brand and viscosity and, second, the AEM tune's very obvious low-speed dead spot mitigates low RPM load while the engine warms up. Yet, you want to install an oil cooler with no known specifications on pressure drops - which are most critical at low rpms?

I don't at all want to ridicule you and I admire your willingness to experiment for your direct benefit and the benefit of other owners. However, I just want you to know the risks that you are taking - particularly with the components that you have shared. I would recommend;

1. In terms of design, I would try to implement a system that is in series with the OEM cooler and therefore any BTU cooling you provide is, by definition, additive. (Admittedly, this approach does not eliminate the risk of the OEM cooler failing - which I suppose is one of your motivations in the first place.)

2. Although more expensive, you might consider to use a Setrab heat exchanger. ALL of their coolers have full BTU and delta pressure drop spec.

Anyway, wish you the best of luck in whatever decisions you make. Just remember that you are dealing with the life-blood of your engine.
 

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Just hope that you are aware that you are largely flying blind with respect to your oil cooler aspirations. First point is that you need to know that the OEM oil to water coolers are very efficient particularly for their size... the fundamental reason that the OEMs favor them. However, there is really no knowledge of the true BTU capability of the cooler. This is a crucial piece of information if you seek to substitute this cooler with an oil to air cooler, you want to at least have the same BTU capability - if not more. Another very critical factor in cooler design is the delta pressure drop across the cooler "system". In the components that you have listed, the heat exchanger is a no-name, Chinese-made cooler. Not only don't you have any specifications regarding the delta pressure drop (a measure of the heat exchanger's efficiency), there is also no specifications for the BTU capability. Given the size (sq-in) of the cooler, I would have serious doubts that it could approach the BTU capability of the OEM unit.... even in optimum air-flow orientations. Regarding pressure drops - the RAM ED bottom-end failures have been well documented and FCA has taken two overt steps to mitigate the occurrence of this catastrophic failure. First, they changed their recommended oil brand and viscosity and, second, the AEM tune's very obvious low-speed dead spot mitigates low RPM load while the engine warms up. Yet, you want to install an oil cooler with no known specifications on pressure drops - which are most critical at low rpms?

I don't at all want to ridicule you and I admire your willingness to experiment for your direct benefit and the benefit of other owners. However, I just want you to know the risks that you are taking - particularly with the components that you have shared. I would recommend;

1. In terms of design, I would try to implement a system that is in series with the OEM cooler and therefore any BTU cooling you provide is, by definition, additive. (Admittedly, this approach does not eliminate the risk of the OEM cooler failing - which I suppose is one of your motivations in the first place.)

2. Although more expensive, you might consider to use a Setrab heat exchanger. ALL of their coolers have full BTU and delta pressure drop spec.

Anyway, wish you the best of luck in whatever decisions you make. Just remember that you are dealing with the life-blood of your engine.
I have taken much of what you have said into consideration. I know that cooling is the main failure of these engines. I also am concerned about a drop in flow and pressure in my after market cooler. I kept that in mind when deciding on the radiator I purchased after looking into some of the applications its been used in. In my opinion, and many others from my research, the factory cooling setup is not sufficient, and from what I've read, is them one of the main reasons they reduced the towing capacity of these engines, not to mention the failures of the cooler itself, and other components that are cooled by the coolant and engine oil. The new 2020 ecodiesel has a much different design for the cooling system and a 3k higher tow limit.

Earlier this year, my turbo failed. The cause of the failure was a crack in the housing. The main cause of the crack, according to the dealer, appeared to be heat. There were signs of access heat in the metal and the mechanic believed that it was heat that caused the failure. He also voiced his opinion on how inadequate the cooling system is on our trucks. The oil goes through the exchanger and is cooled by the coolant. However, when under load, it is not efficient enough to keep the oil cooled, and the oil over heats, which, because of the design,heats up the coolant. The turbo is cooled by the oil and coolant, as is the EGR system. Both have been documented to fail often. If you look at a Cummins, only under heavy loads does the oil temp get above 200 and will usually top out around 220, and then its back to 180 pretty quickly. Our trucks easily hit 260 oil temps, and I've seen 274 on mine towing 7700lb trailer up a steep grade. I wasn't able to go past 25-30 MPH because of the incline, and the cooling system was not sufficient. I stopped multiple times on that trip to let things cools down as I idles on the pull outs that were avialable.

So, my thoughts are, a push/pull fan setup on an external radiator would provide much better cooling capabilities than a coolant cooled oil cooler that over heats the oil and coolant.

I've read and watched several things related to after market coolers and how they affect the oil temps on our trucks. When you separate the oil from the coolant, the entire system runs cooler. there are a few guys that are running this oil cooler I grabbed on drag v8 trucks and cars, and it has worked well for them. My plan was to test it, make sure the oil pressure was good and things were cool. If that wasn't the case, its easy to upgrade the radiator to a larger unit.

Some of the systems I have seen that have been successful at dropping the oil temps on our trucks used a smaller radiator than the one I purchase. I am taking a risk with the chinese company, but its also a company that has many of these coolers out there in race applications with documented results. I will step up to a larger, name brand radiator should this not provide the cooling capacity I desire.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@Bounty Hunter what setup did you use for your oil cooler? I know your cooler is larger than mine. How have your oil temps been? Do you have a thread with the info about your cooler?
 

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That oil thermostat is nice, I went with the cheaper Derale version.

Good luck with that oil cooler, not sure how heavy you tow but in my experience that cooler will not cool enough for any significant load. I went through 2 smaller coolers before settling on a large 200k btu cooler from www.cftperformance.com .

I'd love to have the bumper slot similar to the '20 model. I think you could get by without a slot if you angle the cooler slightly downward and use fans. Problem is the heat would still go up and through the coolant stack.
 

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First point is that you need to know that the OEM oil to water coolers are very efficient particularly for their size
I disagree. The Ram's limitations on towing capacity is directly relative to it's inadequate cooling and, more precisely, the limitations of the stock oil cooler to transfer heat to the coolant. My oil temps have dropped about 30º across the board since installing an external oil cooler, and have subsequently seen a drop in coolant temps as it's no longer heat-soaked by the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That oil thermostat is nice, I went with the cheaper Derale version.

Good luck with that oil cooler, not sure how heavy you tow but in my experience that cooler will not cool enough for any significant load. I went through 2 smaller coolers before settling on a large 200k btu cooler from www.cftperformance.com .

I'd love to have the bumper slot similar to the '20 model. I think you could get by without a slot if you angle the cooler slightly downward and use fans. Problem is the heat would still go up and through the coolant stack.
I found CFTperformance while I was researching my oil cooler. I sized my cooler the same as the one in their kit here: http://cftperformance.com/e-d-ram-oil-cooler-2014-2019/

Did you go with this one? http://cftperformance.com/26-x-7-x-3-5-inch-cooler/
 

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The one in CFT's kit is grossly undersized, not sure it's even offered anymore. I ran it as a step before going bigger.
 

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I disagree. The Ram's limitations on towing capacity is directly relative to it's inadequate cooling and, more precisely, the limitations of the stock oil cooler to transfer heat to the coolant. My oil temps have dropped about 30º across the board since installing an external oil cooler, and have subsequently seen a drop in coolant temps as it's no longer heat-soaked by the oil.
We agree that the Ram's towing capacity limitation IS directly relative to its inadequate cooling. Simply stated, it DOES need more cooling capacity.

Let's just use an example.... maybe I can get you to agree.

Let's say, for example that the OEM cooler is good for 100K BTU/HR cooling capacity. The specs on your system are 200K BTU/HR. That's a 100% improvement over what the OEM cooler is providing - that's substantial. In your own experimentation, "ordinary" coolers were simply not sufficient.

Virtually ALL OEMs use coolant to cool the oil.... because they are VERY efficient by size/volume over their Air-to-oil cousins. This is why you needed to go to the mega-size coolers to get an advantage.
 

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Just hope that you are aware that you are largely flying blind with respect to your oil cooler aspirations. First point is that you need to know that the OEM oil to water coolers are very efficient particularly for their size... the fundamental reason that the OEMs favor them. However, there is really no knowledge of the true BTU capability of the cooler. This is a crucial piece of information if you seek to substitute this cooler with an oil to air cooler, you want to at least have the same BTU capability - if not more. Another very critical factor in cooler design is the delta pressure drop across the cooler "system". In the components that you have listed, the heat exchanger is a no-name, Chinese-made cooler. Not only don't you have any specifications regarding the delta pressure drop (a measure of the heat exchanger's efficiency), there is also no specifications for the BTU capability. Given the size (sq-in) of the cooler, I would have serious doubts that it could approach the BTU capability of the OEM unit.... even in optimum air-flow orientations. Regarding pressure drops - the RAM ED bottom-end failures have been well documented and FCA has taken two overt steps to mitigate the occurrence of this catastrophic failure. First, they changed their recommended oil brand and viscosity and, second, the AEM tune's very obvious low-speed dead spot mitigates low RPM load while the engine warms up. Yet, you want to install an oil cooler with no known specifications on pressure drops - which are most critical at low rpms?

I don't at all want to ridicule you and I admire your willingness to experiment for your direct benefit and the benefit of other owners. However, I just want you to know the risks that you are taking - particularly with the components that you have shared. I would recommend;

1. In terms of design, I would try to implement a system that is in series with the OEM cooler and therefore any BTU cooling you provide is, by definition, additive. (Admittedly, this approach does not eliminate the risk of the OEM cooler failing - which I suppose is one of your motivations in the first place.)

2. Although more expensive, you might consider to use a Setrab heat exchanger. ALL of their coolers have full BTU and delta pressure drop spec.

Anyway, wish you the best of luck in whatever decisions you make. Just remember that you are dealing with the life-blood of your engine.
You act like the stock oil cooler is actually well designed thats not true. Its designed as cheap as possible and has an extremely poor efficiency. Ive experimented with five different oil cooler tweaks so far and they have all done as well or better than the stock oil cooler. Yes I do think the one he chose is a little small and wont fit the area well but should work if he adds airflow to the cooler.
 
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