Well, it is a fact that the OEM cooler is well designed though the quality control of the heat exchanger is obviously flawed. And, it has a very high degree of efficiency. Enough for the high towing needs of the Ram? No... but nevertheless a very high efficiency cooler. This is why virtually all of the OEMs use oil coolers that are substantially similar to this oil cooler for their performance cars. I'm sure there are dozens more, but the Ford GT supercar uses a substantially similar oil cooler as does the Mustang GT with the performance package, as (did) the Boss 302's during their years or production. The OEM's have chosen this design for many reasons - but one of the principal reasons is efficiency.You act like the stock oil cooler is actually well designed thats not true. Its designed as cheap as possible and has an extremely poor efficiency. I've experimented with five different oil cooler tweaks so far and they have all done as well or better than the stock oil cooler. Yes I do think the one he chose is a little small and wont fit the area well but should work if he adds airflow to the cooler.
The exact mileage when I took the truck to the dealer was 81588. I know it started leaking before this, maybe around 75000 but got really bad right before I took it in. So watch for coolant leaking near the back of your engine. I know there is an inlet pipe for the coolant going into the turbo that the dealer said has gone out in a few trucks they have worked in (as well as others reporting this online). That's what we were hoping for but it ended up being the turbo itself.I'm at 76,000 miles and I've done a lot of heavy towing. I wonder if the day is coming that my turbo might fail, too.
Bob,I don't have the technical chops to weigh in on the oil cooler discussion but I am interested in the delete path you're taking...
Since GDE isn't able to play in the sandbox anymore, how are you able to go full delete with your current Hot Tune? In other words, I'm under the impression that a full delete is not possible with the 'Hot' GDE tune since there is still some EGR and regen functionality and the off-road tune is required for a full delete. Is that not correct?
My testing was towing up a 6% grade and it didn’t take that big of a cooler to perform like the factory cooler. Also if the factory cooler was efficient it wouldn’t have 30 degree delta under load but it does. If one added a larger water to oil cooler then the cooling system would be inadequate and would over heat the coolant. So a large air to oil cooler is the easiest fix.Well, it is a fact that the OEM cooler is well designed though the quality control of the heat exchanger is obviously flawed. And, it has a very high degree of efficiency. Enough for the high towing needs of the Ram? No... but nevertheless a very high efficiency cooler. This is why virtually all of the OEMs use oil coolers that are substantially similar to this oil cooler for their performance cars. I'm sure there are dozens more, but the Ford GT supercar uses a substantially similar oil cooler as does the Mustang GT with the performance package, as (did) the Boss 302's during their years or production. The OEM's have chosen this design for many reasons - but one of the principal reasons is efficiency.
You say you have experimented with 5 different "oil cooler tweaks" so far. By design, a coolant based cooler is going to maintain oil temperatures that are very close to water temperatures. This "attribute" of a coolant-based oil cooler is not at all indicative of its overall BTU capability. As an example, if the ED cooler was ~3X its current size and perhaps double its overall BTU capability, you would still see oil temps during "normal" driving that were substantially similar to water temps.
In contrast, in your testing of an air-based oil cooler(s), steady state cooling will no longer be tied to coolant temps and likely can be (steady state) much lower than coolant temps (depending on if an oil thermostat, if employed.) BUT... maximum BTU-shedding capability has nothing to do with steady-state oil temperatures. These lower steady-state temps can lull you into a false sense of security where you believe an improvement has been made.
If modestly sized (<100 sq in) air-based oil coolers could provide the same or better BTU cooling as a coolant-based cooler, then all of the OEMs would use those. They don't. They don't because the coolant-based coolers are simply way more efficient. (Don't take my word for it - just do some reading.)
But, let's get back to the OP. All that I am saying is that the OEM cooler has a pretty high BTU/hr capability. If you were to add a cooler to be in series, whatever additional cooling you provide will be additive. But, most if not all oil cooler kits elect to replace the OEM cooler. If the objective is to increase cooling capacity, then obviously you need to replace the existing cooler with a cooler that has a higher BTU/hr capability than the OEM. My point is that this threshold is quite high.... perhaps higher than common sense would dictate. To wit, Bounty Hunter is nicely saying that the Oil Cooler Kits as offered, have been insufficient. He had to put together a system that uses a SUBSTANTIALLY larger heat exchanger to make an improvement over the OEM system. Let me be explicit about the scenario I've been trying to caution the OP about.
1. You bypass the existing cooler.
2. You replace that cooler with a modestly-sized air-based cooler
3. You drive the ED for a couple of months and notice that oil temps are consistently lower than they were as OEM
4. You are happy/satisfied.
5. On a hot day, you tow a 7.000lb load up a long grade.... and oil temps skyrocket
This last tow-load test is the ONLY test that will reveal the true max cooling capability of the cooler.... and will be the first time you can confirm (or not) that your air-based cooler is doing a better job than the OEM cooler. Point 3) above is simply a characteristic of an air-based cooler and can dangerously lull you into a false sense of accomplishment.