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I ran dual sway control like that with a cheap Curt hitch when I first got my Toy Hauler. Pain in the rear to install and remove all that, and you have to loosen them before backing. Have to clean the bars every so often with steel wool. Just a major headache for marginal sway control.
 

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I dunno, I'm not wild about that Anderson design. How it controls sway is obvious enough, but I don't see "weight distribution" functionality.

First, lets talk about what weight distribution is. It's "anti-porpoising". So when your rig hits a dip or something up/down uneven, you don't want a sudden increase in hitch weight making your truck's front wheels light.

This is a draw bar design WDH. https://www.harborfreight.com/10000-lb-capacity-weight-distributing-hitch-system-67649.html
When you tighten the draw bars, you get 150 ish lbs xferred from rear to front wheels. I've tested this on scales. Look closely at the pic and visualize how the chains are tight and that makes those draw bars put a twisting action on the hitch that lift's the truck's rear wheels a bit and pushes the front wheels down. That twisting action on the hitch is called "moment". The length of the draw bars is a couple feet so you've got a pretty good lever arm there.

Now go back to the Anderson design. Visualize how tightening those chains puts that same kind of twisting action (moment) on the hitch. Sure, there will be some, but you've got almost no lever arm therefore almost no twisting action on the hitch. You won't end up with spit worth of force pushing down on the front wheels.

The bottom line is that the Anderson design looks like it focuses on anti-sway. It's easy to see how sway would be resisted by the chain and bushing design, but it doesn't look like it has hardly any weight distro functionality. Read some reviews of the Anderson hitch. Look for the posts that seem to be written by engineers and describe weight distro functionality and the design. The reviews by engineer seem to agree that the Anderson design really isn't WD.

2nd issue. There's a couple posts here that show draw bar hitches with additional anti-sway bars. You can probably lose the anti-sway bar. The draw bar design has pretty good anti-sway functionality. Hook up your hitch and draw bar, then turn your rig a bit. Get out and look at how the turning action has stressed a draw bar. That bar is resisting trailer sway, and will therefore help you keep it at a minimum.

That HF hitch is what I've been using for a decade now in my once/month long tows (usually 8-16hr round trip). My 24' trailer weighs 7400-7800 depending on loadout.

3rd issue. Most people don't get their draw bars tight enough. I have to raise the center of my rig a couple inches in order to fasten up the draw bars in order to xfer ~160lbs to the truck's front wheels. If I didn't raise the center of the rig to install the draw bars, I was only getting about 50lbs xferred, which probably isn't worth doing.
 

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2nd issue. There's a couple posts here that show draw bar hitches with additional anti-sway bars. You can probably lose the anti-sway bar. The draw bar design has pretty good anti-sway functionality. Hook up your hitch and draw bar, then turn your rig a bit. Get out and look at how the turning action has stressed a draw bar. That bar is resisting trailer sway, and will therefore help you keep it at a minimum.
From my research and experience, the draw bar hitches that hang the draw bar from a chain provide zero sway control. It's the draw bars that rest in a frame mounted bracket that provide the sway control.
 

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From my research and experience, the draw bar hitches that hang the draw bar from a chain provide zero sway control. It's the draw bars that rest in a frame mounted bracket that provide the sway control.
Like I described, turn your rig a little and see if the action of turning has increased the load on one of your draw bars. If yes, then it has anti-sway functionality. If not, then doesn't. Don't trust other opinions unless they can describe the physics of what's going on.

Can you post a pic of the "frame mounted bracket" that you mentioned?
 

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On the road so from memory also fwiw I’ve posted the scale slip here before.
Scales show my unloaded steer weight is 3,300 pounds.
Towed a 9,100 pound travel trailer.
Scales showed it added 1,140 pounds to my truck via the tongue/WDH.
My loaded steer weight after only WDH adjustments 3,300.

Wish I had weighed it without the WDH to see how much weight it returned from the drive axle weight back to the steer & TT axle weights.
Might try it before you knock it Ranger my good man. :)
 

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The bracket mounted to the trailer frame on the left end of this pic.
View attachment 83118
Do the draw bars slide thru those brackets that are holding it to the trailer? If so, they wouldn't tighten as you turn the rig, yes? That tightening as the rig turns is how a WDH can provide anti-sway.
 

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On the road so from memory also fwiw I’ve posted the scale slip here before.
Scales show my unloaded steer weight is 3,300 pounds.
Towed a 9,100 pound travel trailer.
Scales showed it added 1,140 pounds to my truck via the tongue/WDH.
My loaded steer weight after only WDH adjustments 3,300.

Wish I had weighed it without the WDH to see how much weight it returned from the drive axle weight back to the steer & TT axle weights.
Might try it before you knock it Ranger my good man. :)
I'm not attempting to say the Anderson design sucks, I'm saying that it doesn't look like the design adds load to the front wheels. It's anti-sway functionality is obvious enough. If the design doesn't put significant moment on the rear hitch, then it will have no anti-porpoising action. The physics are unavoidable. So lets go find an authoritative discussion re. how the Anderson designs works. Won't be the first time that I missed something. When the theory doesn't agree with observation, that just means something is being overlooked. Could be on the theory side, could be on the observation side.
 

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Do the draw bars slide thru those brackets that are holding it to the trailer? If so, they wouldn't tighten as you turn the rig, yes? That tightening as the rig turns is how a WDH can provide anti-sway.
Yes. As I said, the design with the load bars resting on frame-mounted brackets DOES provide sway control. Hanging the ends of the load bars from chain does NOT provide sway control.
 

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I'm not attempting to say the Anderson design sucks, I'm saying that it doesn't look like the design adds load to the front wheels. It's anti-sway functionality is obvious enough. If the design doesn't put significant moment on the rear hitch, then it will have no anti-porpoising action. The physics are unavoidable. So lets go find an authoritative discussion re. how the Anderson designs works. Won't be the first time that I missed something. When the theory doesn't agree with observation, that just means something is being overlooked. Could be on the theory side, could be on the observation side.
The anderson hitch does transfer weight for and aft and it does it the same way as the rest, by adding a rotational force onto the hitch itself. The chains pull back on the hitch which adds the rotational force the more load you apply the ball the more force it adds. The anti sway is from the friction of spinning the ball in the mount and has little to due with the chains. Greasing the ball on the anderson hitch would hinder its anti sway function.
 

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The anderson hitch does transfer weight for and aft and it does it the same way as the rest, by adding a rotational force onto the hitch itself. The chains pull back on the hitch which adds the rotational force the more load you apply the ball the more force it adds. The anti sway is from the friction of spinning the ball in the mount and has little to due with the chains. Greasing the ball on the anderson hitch would hinder its anti sway function.
What you describe for WD operation has a lever arm of maybe 3". That's not gonna put much moment on the hitch. That's a helova lot less lever arm than draw bars that are about 3' long. If you feel that the Anderson hitch has significant WD function, find a write up that describes the forces. But focus on the small lever arm, that is to say, the distance form WD arm attachment point and the center of the hitch shaft.

The "spinning the ball in the mount" is goofy. The way to counter sway is to have a mechanism that adds corrective centering force proportional to the angle of sway So the more the sway, the more the centering force. That's why systems that are based on friction suck because all they have no centering force. They just resist all movement a little bit. Both movement off center and then they resist movement towards neutral. What makes this centering ball idea especially bad is that it's so weak. Visualize a trailer that sways by 5deg at the moment that some proposing makes the hitch light. The ball friction idea won't hardly resist that at all because 5deg is so little movement. But the driver would sense 5deg as a serious problem. At least a sway control bar will resist 5deg a fair bit more.
 

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What you describe for WD operation has a lever arm of maybe 3". That's not gonna put much moment on the hitch. That's a helova lot less lever arm than draw bars that are about 3' long. If you feel that the Anderson hitch has significant WD function, find a write up that describes the forces. But focus on the small lever arm, that is to say, the distance form WD arm attachment point and the center of the hitch shaft.

The "spinning the ball in the mount" is goofy. The way to counter sway is to have a mechanism that adds corrective centering force proportional to the angle of sway So the more the sway, the more the centering force. That's why systems that are based on friction suck because all they have no centering force. They just resist all movement a little bit. Both movement off center and then they resist movement towards neutral. What makes this centering ball idea especially bad is that it's so weak. Visualize a trailer that sways by 5deg at the moment that some proposing makes the hitch light. The ball friction idea won't hardly resist that at all because 5deg is so little movement. But the driver would sense 5deg as a serious problem. At least a sway control bar will resist 5deg a fair bit more.
Dont need a write up Ive tested mine both at scales and with first hand towing experience, it works well. Yes the weight transfer is a little less than some other styles but unlike the others there is no spring action that causes bouncing over uneven terrain. Also the friction works well thats how bar styles work as well the bars pivot on greased points they resit moving by friction at the contact points.
 

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Greasing the ball on the anderson hitch would hinder its anti sway function.
Greasing the ball would have no affect, as the bottom plate controls ball rotation inside the hitch, and all friction is in the conical polymer insert, not the ball.
 

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Greasing the ball would have no affect, as the bottom plate controls ball rotation inside the hitch, and all friction is in the conical polymer insert, not the ball.
In theory yes but under some conditions the tension on the chains are a little loose thats when the friction of the ball is important. It did make a noticeable difference when i tried it hoping to quite mine down at low speeds when it was cold out.
 

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In theory yes but under some conditions the tension on the chains are a little loose thats when the friction of the ball is important. It did make a noticeable difference when i tried it hoping to quite mine down at low speeds when it was cold out.
Can't imagine any condition in which my chains would be a little loose. Have you gotten the improved ball mount and bottom plate yet?
 
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