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This new Ram Ecodiesel should be a real towing monster. Let us know what you plan on hauling/towing with it!
 

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Just bought a Kodiak Model 291RESL


Unloaded Weight 6,517
Cargo Capacity 2,383
Hitch Weight 717

I am hoping that the 3.0L will have the stones to pull this in the hills without working itself to death.

I plan on getting the air suspension on the 1500 . . . any ideas how this will play out with a weight distributing hitch/sway bars?
 

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Just bought a Kodiak Model 291RESL


Unloaded Weight 6,517
Cargo Capacity 2,383
Hitch Weight 717

I am hoping that the 3.0L will have the stones to pull this in the hills without working itself to death.

I plan on getting the air suspension on the 1500 . . . any ideas how this will play out with a weight distributing hitch/sway bars?
You're pushing close to 7000lbs (unloaded). Once you load it up you'll be over 7k. With that said I'd go with the Hemi.

By the way welcome aboard and congrats on the purchase! Looks really nice!
 

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Just bought a Kodiak Model 291RESL


Unloaded Weight 6,517
Cargo Capacity 2,383
Hitch Weight 717

I am hoping that the 3.0L will have the stones to pull this in the hills without working itself to death.

I plan on getting the air suspension on the 1500 . . . any ideas how this will play out with a weight distributing hitch/sway bars?
Owners of air suspension have reported that a WDH works fine. As far as a loaded trailer (about 8000 lbs?) you will be pushing the tow rating of the 1500, diesel or gas. You will want a 3.92 axle. A diesel will work according to the numbers but you will have to be careful with options that reduce the tow rating. The highest diesel tow rating available is 9200 lbs on an SLT standard cab 4x2 with 8' box. By comparison, an SLT crew cab 4x4 with 6'4" box is 8600 lbs, and a Limited is only 8300 lbs. The Hemi will give you more capacity but you will still want the 3.92 gearing which will drive your mpg down.
 

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A 29 footer should be towed with a 3/4 ton. 1st, what I learned in the RV forums, NEVER go with the fictitious dry weights. That trailer has a GVW of almost 9000 pounds. 2nd, when loaded, you are looking at 900 to 1000 pounds of tongue weight. With the average 1/2 ton Ram 4x4 having a payload of 1400lbs, that leaves you about 400lbs for accessories, wife, kids, dog, you (if you're over 150lbs), and anything in the bed. And, if you get the air suspension, you could get an overload alarm.

When I purchase this truck, my next trailer will 26' or less, and with a GVW of less than 7500lbs.
 

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I cant wait to see what the actual numbers are. I tow a PUP now but am thinking of a light weight TT. 5200# dry with a tongue weight of 585. I Think this would do just fine with weight distrobution and a anti swayu controller installed.
 

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I cant wait to see what the actual numbers are. I tow a PUP now but am thinking of a light weight TT. 5200# dry with a tongue weight of 585. I Think this would do just fine with weight distrobution and a anti swayu controller installed.
Never go with the fictitious DRY weights. Nobody camps with an empty trailer. Always go worst case scenario. Use the GVW and 12% to 15% tongue weight. Just remember, tongue weight counts for payload, and then there is your passengers and cargo in the truck. 1500s don't have a lot of payload, so it is easy to go over payload.
 

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That's too much for a 1500.

I have towed literally hundreds of trailers for delivery with three 2500 trucks. My current Cummins would tow it with no issues. I would not even try with the `1500 diesel I have waiting for the order to be allowed. Your trailer will need a 2500 for the truck payload issue alone.

My current toy hauler is a 7,500 lb gvr. Booked dry at only 5K it's usually 6.5K with a couple bikes, water, "stuff" generator, propane and gear. That will be about max for the upcoming 1500 diesel.

One thing you should also do is weigh the tongue. My generator rides behind the propane bottles. Some waste water tanks sit ahead of the axles. Put it together and you will probably find ...
you need the 2500.
 

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TKO, I think some of the concerns listed above are accurate. The tongue weight of that trailer alone may be close to the payload rating of your truck without family or stuff in truc depending on model, configuration, etc. I am planning to order 4x4, CC, 5.7 bed, rambox, Laramie trim. The website lists base weight as 5922 without rambox. Using the ram boby builder download I will be adding 350 lbs of options. With 6950 the gvw I have about 700lbs payload. The trailer I have been planning to get has a relatively light 375lb tongue weight with base weight of 4890. The truck will have sufficient tow rating (with 3.92) of 8400lbs, but with 2 adults, dog, actual on road tongue weight we will probably be over payload. I am considering no to the ramboxes to gain the 120-150lbs they add. Wish . The truck had a little higher payload.
 

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Owned one of the 5.9 GMC 1500 diesels from 1994. Good engine for me and 160,000 miles. Just not enough suspension to tow much. BUILT THE REAR SPRINGS UP.

Just thinking it might be reasonable to add shocks with helper springs to the back of a new 1500 and increase the payload? Don't know if that LEGALLY increases the payload but in my case with the old 1500 diesel, it worked.

Traded that truck after 8 years for a Duramax 2500. Huge towing difference. Two years later I "saw the light" and have had my Cummins for over 10 years. I hope this new VM Motori 1500 will be reasonable as I no longer tow heavy.
 

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Anyone have any real world milage numbers on Ram 5.7 Hemi towing a boat? Reason I ask is because I have been running some numbers. Ram claims 17 mpg combined fuel economy (non towing). Where I live, premium gas is $3.28/gallon which equates to a little over 19 cents per mile. If the Ecodiesel can get 22 mpg combined, for example, and Diesel is $3.78 per gallon that means about 17 cents per mile. This all means that it would take 142,500 miles to get back the $2850 premium!
I am now rethinking the EcoDiesel, unless I can get significantly higher fuel economy while towing my 5000lb boat and trailer.
Thoughts??
 

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Resale on diesels are traditional higher. Hard to say with this one but you should be able to sell it for $2500 more than the same hemi.
 

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FYI a friend has a new 2013 Ram 1500 with hemi. He also has a 30ft. travel trailer and another at my camp in Georgia. He towed his new trailer there from south Florida. Going north on I 75 he did 7-8 mpg. About as soon as he crossed the Georgia line, hit a few hills, he dropped to 6 - 7 mpg.

When he hauled it back he told me, "never again". He's looking for another truck and it's NOT gonna have a hemi.

That's not unusual. Friend has a new Ford V8. He gets 8 mpg towing his 28 ft. trailer. Another bought a 2500 Ford with a big V8 to tow his 5th wheel. Went from Florida to the Grand Canyon. About had to get a loan to get gas to return. 5-6 mpg and the engine is "screaming" under tow.

I have no clue why so many are so dumb to try and tow anything with a gas engine?
 

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G.Cc.W.r.

The Ram 1500's GCWR (gross combined weight ratio) is 13,500 lbs. That is truck & trailer combined. my trucks wt 2014 slt 4x4 long box reg cab 5 th wheel hitch 32 gal gas 5.7 hemi 17 in wheels empty custom aluminum tool box " 5700lbs " 13,500 - 5,700 = 7800lbs - 2 people 300lbs = 7500 lbs My trailer (fully loaded} and hitch weight better not exeed 7500 lbs or buy buy warrenty. diesel weighs 150lbs more than hemi.
 

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thats assuming that you have a failure that would be covered under warranty that Ram would suspect that the cause of the failure was overloading and then they weighed your trailer "fully loaded". not impossible but fairly low odds.
my buddy pulled my boat with his 05' 6.0 gas and got somewhere around 6-8mpg. with my duramax i get 15-16mpg. thats about $270 in one 1200 mile trip, i make 2 of those a year plus some shorter hulls here and there.
 

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I plan on towing a #1700 flatbed trailer with one of my vehicles on it. The racecar weights #2750, my 72 chevy step side truck weights #3700, my 64 nova SS weights #2700 and the 41 Chevy Coupe streetrod weights #3400 -- 99% of the time I'll be towing my racecar so i'm looking at #4450 which should just be wonderful with this truck and the weight Distribution hitch system. Even worst case the pickup and i'm only at #5400 so I am waiting eager for the day I can buy one. I have been towing with a Chevy Tahoe and getting 14 MPG city -- 19 MPG highway and 11 MPG towing -- that hurts...
 

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I have been looking at a 4x4 CC 6'4" box Laramie. The payload is only 1140 lbs. That number has me back looking at a 2500/3500. My 20' enclosed car trailer weighs 3300 lbs the car that I load into it weighs 2400 lbs.( approx. tongue 570 lbs) that only leaves 570lbs for passengers (there are 2 besides me) and gear.

I don't think that the EcoDiesel would have any problem pulling that weight but I would go over on payload. Not good.

Olli
 

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I have been looking at a 4x4 CC 6'4" box Laramie. The payload is only 1140 lbs. That number has me back looking at a 2500/3500. My 20' enclosed car trailer weighs 3300 lbs the car that I load into it weighs 2400 lbs.( approx. tongue 570 lbs) that only leaves 570lbs for passengers (there are 2 besides me) and gear.

I don't think that the EcoDiesel would have any problem pulling that weight but I would go over on payload. Not good.

Olli
The Ram 1500's low payload ratings are jaw dropping. With common options your actual rating would probably be even less than 1140. On some models the payload rating is so low--5 occupants would overload the truck!--that it does not make sense. Given that Ram will not say how they arrive at the GVWR and that it is difficult to find reports of problems from moderate overloading, many owners just ignore it. Of course, it is reasonable to look for a truck that stays within its official ratings, so a 2500 may be best in your case. Good luck with whatever you choose.
 

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at $0.10 per litre difference, the Ecodiesel still saves money over the Ecoboost. Def fluid tops on on Oil Change which is on wider intervals than the Ecoboost. I did the math and fuel/fluids alone the Ram is on top.

Work it out yourself. I live in Canada, but fuel is roughly $1.25 per litre for gas and $1.35 for diesel(its not that big of a gap, but that's what I used for my math. If you divide it out, that's a fuel cost difference of about 7%.

Then, take the fuel numbers (28 mpg and 21 mpg), that's a fuel consumption difference of 25%. If you consider towing: V-8s don't drop down to their 4-cylinder economy mode so you can't even hardly include them and Ecoboost is already beat before it begins. The Ecodiesel's adaptive engine mapping makes it barely notice a fuel difference at 7,000 lbs load (drops to about 24.5 mpg according to "Alex on Autos'" Independant video review, who also said he was hitting 30 mpg unloaded in slow-and-go traffic for an hour with fully equipped 4x4+air suspension)

I'll pay the fuel premium all day long to get the diesel power curve and the fuel savings. PLUS I'll pay the engine premium.

Here's a link to that independent review I used as a source for my fuel numbers:
 
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