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Discussion Starter #1
With U.S. ordering still several weeks away we might as well familiarize ourselves with the 772-page Owner's Manual and 330-page Diesel Supplement. When our truck arrives in the spring we'll be ready!

If I was wondering how Ram could produce over 1100 pages the first paragraph of the Owner's Manual gives a hint:

VEHICLES SOLD IN CANADA
With respect to any Vehicles Sold in Canada, the name Chrysler Group LLC shall be deemed to be deleted and the name Chrysler Canada Inc. used in substitution therefore.

I hope Ram is better at engineering and manufacturing than they are at writing!

The Canada section is followed by a DRIVING AND ALCOHOL warning, a coincidence perhaps?

The first page wraps up with this sage advice: Please disregard any features and equipment described in this manual that are not on this vehicle.
How will I know what options I am missing if I disregard them?

The manual is divided into 9 sections and an index. If I was planning to jump in the truck and drive off with a silly grin on my face, the first section would stop me cold: Things To Know Before Starting Your Vehicle. At 114 pages this should keep me busy for a few days!

Share what you have learned from the manuals. I'm sure there is much useful info in there. :cool:
 

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Where are you finding the manual? I'd actually read that. Is it online? Is my dealer holding out on me?

Actually I found it, I googled it and your blessed American website had it.
 

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I LEARNED SOMETHING GOOD!

If you use a biodiesel blend greater than 5%, you can extend your oil change intervals to as much as 12,500 KMs. Daaaaaaaaaaang.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I LEARNED SOMETHING GOOD!

If you use a biodiesel blend greater than 5%, you can extend your oil change intervals to as much as 12,500 miles. Daaaaaaaaaaang.
I thought it was the other way around: greater than 5% required more frequent changes not to exceed 8000 miles. The only place I find 12,500 miles mentioned is for the Cummins engine in 3500+ chassis cabs. :confused:

On a side note, a Ram feature that gives me pause is the "automatic engine oil change indicator system" that monitors operating conditions and driving style to alert me to a required oil change that can be as early as 3,500 miles under "Severe Operating Conditions" (unclear why they capitalized that term). That could be very annoying if I don't agree with it or if I am on a long trip where servicing is inconvenient. One thing I will learn is how to reset the warning if I am not distracted by one of the 100+ other possible EVIC messages! According to the manual these include such useful items as "Remote Start Aborted Trunk Open" (the Ram has a trunk???) and "Off Road 2 Watch For Clearance" (as a tall person I always do!).
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
SORRY GUYS! CANADIAN! I misread KMs as Miles!
You and NASA! :p
I never understood why the U.S. could not adopt metric like most of the world. We tried twice but went back to our old ways each time. The stupid thing is that most things are now built with metric units but we still refer to them with English units. A few things are mixed units so we have to have two tool sets. :mad:
 

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Clever guys those authors of the manuals..... must be the same guys who write the lawn motor manual, 'keep feet and hands clear of blade during operation".....

Used to keep manuals in the glove box, as reference, good idea to have.... that lasted until about 2006, when the darn thing took up too much space...... .
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Clever guys those authors of the manuals..... must be the same guys who write the lawn motor manual, 'keep feet and hands clear of blade during operation".....

Used to keep manuals in the glove box, as reference, good idea to have.... that lasted until about 2006, when the darn thing took up too much space...... .
The Ram manuals would take up half of our payload capacity. They should store them in a searchable database in on-board memory, viewable on the big display.
 

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They don't even divide it up by trim-level, so you basically have to read everything and decide what to remember. Nutjobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
They don't even divide it up by trim-level, so you basically have to read everything and decide what to remember. Nutjobs.
The manual may be a victim of Ram's screwy model lineup. Ram has 11 models or trims made up from hundreds of options. They arbitrarily restrict what options, colors and styles can be ordered with each model. That makes little sense in today's computer-controlled manufacturing.

We can't build what we want (or find it in the manual). We have to pick the closest model, add and delete options allowed for that model to get closer, and then try to work with the dealer on things the factory won't do. Even simple things like wheels and tires are special to certain models for no apparent reason other than to frustrate us. I want some options from a Laramie, some from an Outdoorsman and some from a 2500. confused0024.gif

The manual is produced in Adobe InDesign which assists good layout, indexing, graphics and links. But poor editing makes it hard to use. Half the words are unnecessary. I even see references to things like a trunk and a radio antenna in the right rear glass that must have been copied from car manuals.
 

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Don't know where you are finding this manual. What's bugging me about the engine is the quantity of oil it holds and that's it's expensive synthetic oil. Then there's the issue of where the fuel filter is located.

Can't find information on either issue.
 

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Use this link:

My Ram Trucks: Ram Owners Service Manuals - Ram Cars, Minivans, SUVs

Drop-down menu explains it all. There's the manual itself and then the "Diesel Supplement". I found it by googling "2014 Ram1500 manual".

Enjoy!


Now, as per the "syhthetic oil" requirement: due to the construction of this parcitular engine, there is no break-in time. Warm-ups are required but no actual initial break-in time. That means the mileage will begin working for you almost immediately. Take that and the longer service intervals(vs hemi), and the slight added cost of synthetic oil is easily negated.

Enjoy!
 

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Oh man! Thanks for the information.

I downloaded the Diesel Supplement and it's huge. On my topics of interest I see the oil capacity is "only" 8 qts. That's 5 qts less than my Cummins. Since I usually changed it around 10K miles, even with the extra cost of synthetic, it will come out about the same in cost.

As for that fuel filter, it's something to look at for me.

First issue I think of is it's location ON the rear axle. Man I'm thinking, after looking at the Georgia clay all over my truck and pine branches stuck under my quad from this weekend, it will get caught up in crap and damaged. Add to this the fuel lines that now have to run backwards (away from the engine) to this filter, then out of the filter foreward to the motor. That's a lot of line possibly prone to damage. Now what about the wiring required for this darn "water-in-fuel" warning?

Next thing is how to service the thing. It actually looks like it opens with a Phillips-head screw??? No way can that be right. It has almost no torque capacity and would be prone to damage just opening and closing it. Then there's the issue of access. I've seen dumb before and this might fit right down there with them.

For you guys in the cold, with lines that long and exposed, get ready for some cold-related fuel issues with that design.

I'm starting to think that some of these engineers were dropped on their head at a young age.

Wonder where they have a fuel pump to get the fuel from the tank, through all those lines and up to the injector pump? Wonder how it's all primed? My only main failure in 210,000 miles now on my Cummins was a fuel pump they put on the firewall to SUCK fuel from the tank to the injector pump. Left me stuck with trailer in Texas. Two days, two tows (trailer and truck) and a grand total later for all expenses, the new one is pushing from inside the tank.

These are all issues that sometimes take a few model years to work out for reliability. Hope this truck does not have many "first year blues".

Now it just occurred to me that the rear axle is moving up and down during operation. That means some kind of 'flex' system has to be built into those fuel lines both to and from the filter. Unlike brake lines, these are holding fuel. Maybe they really were dropped on their head at a young age?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
As for that fuel filter, it's something to look at for me. ...
Calm down. ;)

I believe the fuel filter is mounted above the axle on the frame near the fuel tank. A relatively safe place. It has a heater for extreme cold to help keep the fuel moving.

The screw is to drain excess water, although I hope I don't ever have to do that in the field because it could be really unpleasant.
 

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As far as the oil is concerned. The engine is speced to use 5w30 synthetic. I really hope that owners (and the dealer lube techs!) do some reading about the oil requirements beyond the viscosity. The VM 3.0 reguires the use of LOW ASH or low SAPS (sulfated ash,phosphorous,and sulphur) synthetic oil. The oil should meet Chrysler MS-11106, Fiat 9.55535-S1, ACEA C3 specs. SAPS make up a significant portion of an oil's additive pack. Emissions equipment such as diesel particulate filters (DPF) and catalysts are sensitive to SAPS content and require low SAPS oil to function properly over an extended period of time.

Personally, I would ask the service dept. to show me the oil that they would be using for the VM 3.0.

Olli
 

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Discussion Starter #16
As far as the oil is concerned. The engine is speced to use 5w30 synthetic. I really hope that owners (and the dealer lube techs!) do some reading about the oil requirements beyond the viscosity. The VM 3.0 reguires the use of LOW ASH or low SAPS (sulfated ash,phosphorous,and sulphur) synthetic oil. The oil should meet Chrysler MS-11106, Fiat 9.55535-S1, ACEA C3 specs. SAPS make up a significant portion of an oil's additive pack. Emissions equipment such as diesel particulate filters (DPF) and catalysts are sensitive to SAPS content and require low SAPS oil to function properly over an extended period of time.

Personally, I would ask the service dept. to show me the oil that they would be using for the VM 3.0.

Olli
Good point. Those of us--like me--who are unfamiliar with diesels could easily overlook a simple thing like this with expensive consequences. An oil that should work is Mobile 1 ESP (Emission System Protection) for about $8.50 a quart. Cheaper alternatives must be out there.
 
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I would most likely use the Amsoil European Car Formula 5W30 as well. Another option is the Pennzoil EuroL 5W30. It meets the Chrysler spec.

Olli
 

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If it gets down to dollars and cents, I'll start blending my fuel to push my oil changes farther. There's kits galore out there for making waste oil fuel or biodiesel. The smaller displacement also calls for less oil if you compare side-by-side to an engine with similar power figures. I ran Royal Purple in all my sports cars so I'm not looking at a few dollars more per quart as a problem. I'm just excited to no longer be able to physically watch my fuel gauge move.
 

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Did read that manual again and it shows the fuel filter and calls the location "above the rear axle". Guess now that's on the frame above the axle. Real curious to see the location.

Also noted the fuel pump is inside the tank so it's a push pump to the injector pump. Good.

Now what the heck is an, "air conditioning filter"? Supposed to replace it every 20K. Could not find anything more on it for now. Also noted comments related to a regeneration cycle. Heard that was when they injected raw diesel fuel into that particulate filter. That dropped the fuel mileage significantly in the Cummins that had it before this urea system. Thought the urea (DER) was a replacement for that.

This thing is pretty technical for someone like me.
 
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