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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For all my northern climate friends I was wondering who believes in rustproofing their vehicles still?

I see quite a few mid 2000s rams with rusty fender wells. And my parents 2003 Silverado has quite a few frame rust issues due to all the salt they see.
 

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On my 2007 F-150, I am in the mid atlantic and we get a bit of snow in the winter and they salt like crazy. I was shocked at how much rust I had when I crawled under the truck a few weeks ago. The sheet metal was fine, but 2 of my exhaust clamps had rusted through and the drive shaft looked like it came fresh out of the junk yard. Frame and shock mounts had quite a bit of rust as well. I decided on my new Ram to get the under coating. Dropped it off yesterday to the dealer for the undercoating and spray in bed liner. Hopefully that will help a lot with the corrosion.
 

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I was (am) thinking about having our RAM rustproofed at Ziebart. This is the first brand new vehicle I've owned so I feel like I should be doing what I can to keep it nice as long as possible. However, the engineer/farm boy in me doesn't want to spend money on something that doesn't pay. Having always owned used vehicles I've never thought about doing it, so not sure how well it really works.

Generally speaking I would say vehicles now days are much better than even 10 years ago and the thing that will most likely affect it the most is an owner that takes care of his/her truck and does a detailed job cleaning it often.

I priced out my '14 RAM CC 6'4 box at Ziebart for the rustproofing and it is $450. We have spent enough money in the last couple months now on the truck that we are going to hold off for a bit. Maybe by Sept/Oct I'll look at it again and decide before the rain/sleet/ice/snow falls. Right now today, I am leaning towards doing it and then maybe having it re-applied the first couple years and then let it go. I plan on keeping this truck for at least 10 years.... if I were the type that typically trades/sells every 3-5 years I wouldn't do it and invest the $450 instead. Just my thoughts...
 

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I definitely do and am debating what to use on my new truck. Currently leaning towards "FLUID FILM" underneath since it is non petroleum based and will not attack rubbers and plastics. FOr internal cavities debating between LPS products, Boeing Boeshield T9 or a Swedish product. Currently leaning towards the Boeing product. Long term evidence here in Northern Wisconsin shows that you can prevent the rusting that typically occurs at the bottom of the doors, rocker panels, bottom of tailgate, over rear fenders etc with an owner applied product. I know vehicles 20 y5 years old that the owner has applied drain oil or similar every year and have no rust. I want to avoid the constant dripping and mess of oil. The Boeing T9 is a solvent carried wax that has a good industrial history.

I definitely do not believe in the old time tar type undercoating. It tends to crack and peel off and actually holds salt and moisture against the body.

I would appreciate hearing from anyone with actual experience with various rustproofing products.
 

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I just picked up my truck last week and had the Chrysler Canada Undercoating done at the dealer. It has a lifetime guarantee. (Max $5000 payout) I was under the truck yesterday to check out the job. Deplorable! I could have done better with 2 rattle cans from Walmart and 15 mins!! It is going back to the dealer on Friday.
 

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I thought about Ziebart and another similar system but they both drill holes in the sheet metal. The metal is galvanized dipped by the factory. when you drill you expose bare metal. I'm not sure if I like that idea.
I'm not knocking it just unsure.
 

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I have used "rust check" here in ontario on my old 2003 ram and even though it had 11 years of winters it still looked pretty good, when I got rid of it it had a bit of scabbing on the drivers side, others of that generation I have seen driving around look horrible some totally rotted right out.
 

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My 2004 was done at Ziebart and not a bit of rust on her @ 147,000. Will do the new truck also.
 

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I have used Krown for years, and will continue to do so. Truck will be going to gets its treatment in the fall.
 

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I had the dealer rustproof mine. They did a very clean and thorough job. Came with a 10-year warranty and they'll touch it up for no cost if I ever add accessories or have panels replaced because of an accident. This is my first new vehicle so I though it was worth it. I take good care of my vehicles and my last two still rusted on me pretty bad.
 

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I think Japbike has hit the nail on the head perfectly. The outcome of the rustproofing is highly dependent upon the skill of the applicator and whether or not he/she gives a sh*t. The product they use may be excellent but the insurance payment doesn't come out of the applicator's hide. That is why I believe the owner that cares can do the best job. I had Chrysler sponsored rustproofing put on my 2010 Dodge minivan and the tailgate and hood edge foldovers were festering and bubbling the paint after 4 years. No rustproofing was done in the hood and the side foldovers of the tailgate had also not had anything put on them. Only the bottom of the tailgate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I thought about Ziebart and another similar system but they both drill holes in the sheet metal. The metal is galvanized dipped by the factory. when you drill you expose bare metal. I'm not sure if I like that idea.
I'm not knocking it just unsure.
Agreed nailem! I really don't like that either. Galvanized metal is only treated on the surface. Seen many holes with bubbled up paint around them.

I definitely do and am debating what to use on my new truck. Currently leaning towards "FLUID FILM" underneath since it is non petroleum based and will not attack rubbers and plastics. FOr internal cavities debating between LPS products, Boeing Boeshield T9 or a Swedish product. Currently leaning towards the Boeing product. Long term evidence here in Northern Wisconsin shows that you can prevent the rusting that typically occurs at the bottom of the doors, rocker panels, bottom of tailgate, over rear fenders etc with an owner applied product. I know vehicles 20 y5 years old that the owner has applied drain oil or similar every year and have no rust. I want to avoid the constant dripping and mess of oil. The Boeing T9 is a solvent carried wax that has a good industrial history.

I definitely do not believe in the old time tar type undercoating. It tends to crack and peel off and actually holds salt and moisture against the body.

I would appreciate hearing from anyone with actual experience with various rustproofing products.
I have heard of fluid film before but vaguely remember it. T9 I have used on my bikes before but dirt seems to stick to it. Where would you use this at?.
 

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i used to work for Carwell and we used T32 on military ground equipment ( everything but plaines). I under coated my 04 Ram 1500 with it and it had no rust whatsoever after 10 years. It is petroleum based and looks like a fine red hydronic fluid.
 

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Used to live in PA (first 22 years of my life) and never had an issue with rust. I always washed the car/truck during the winter. Just find that no touch car wash with the belly wash for the winter time.

Then again, Cathodic protection on the frames would rock.
 

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The electronic rust inhibitor is a joke...researched them quite a bit and the only way it would make a difference is to run a grounding strip with the device, other wise a scam and a waste of cash.!
 

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CB919, Skiff Man & NDTGUY,

I would use the T9 in the doors and tailgate to protect the foldover areas at the bottom and edges. I would also use in the box cavities to protect the areas over the wheels and in front and back of the wheels. Need to get underneath to see if I can get into the rocker panel areas. I do not want to drill holes in anything. It is thin when sprayed and creeps really well. Once the carrier evaporates it leaves a waxy surface that is a bit sticky so it would collect dust. But it will not plug drain holes.

Ref Skiff man's comment on T-32 I do not know anything about it but will research it too. I have a couple months to decide.

Ref NDTGUY's comment on cathodic protection, it is a great concept that is reliable for offshore platforms and buried pipelines. However, to work reliably there needs to be an electrolyte connecting the anodes to the areas wanting to corrode. That doesn't exist reliably on a truck. Additionally, cathodic shielding is a real problem on a truck with all its nooks and crannies.

All the best,
 
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