Greetings everyone! In my quest for ensuring I changed my transmission properly I reached out to ZF for instructions and they kindly sent back the attached file. Just wanted to pass along the knowledge. I recently changed my transmission fluid and followed these exactly, I also installed the PPE all aluminum pan with replaceable filter (figured I'd give it a shot since it was the same price as the plastic OEM pan; PPE pan holds 2 extra quarts though). All went well. If anyone needs pointers or has questions feel free to ask! http:https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58e07b7e808e4/ZF Trans Service Instructions.pdf
ZF 8HP70 Transmission Service
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Manofmeyham
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Does the old gasket transfer over onto the PPE pan or is it best practice to order a new pan.
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The gasket is a rubber type and it transfers over just fine. You'll also need to reuse the stainless spacers in each pan bolt hole.
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For those using the PPE pan, did you reuse the old OEM gasket and bolts with spacers? If not, where did you source new ones?
- Also, which finish did you go with? The black pan is powder coated (as per PPE stated in an email exchange I had). I'm buying this pan to help cooling. Powder coating adds a layer that inhibits heat transfer. They should have anodized.
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Wow. This was answered literally the post before yours. SMDH.
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Bolts and spacers are reused. OEM gasket will be reused. Or your local Ram dealership has them for 13$.
I went with raw finish because it was cheaper. Doubt powdercoating has any measurable difference in heat release. swaintech.com offers a heat release type coating that may help by 1-3 degrees. They mostly use the coating on intercoolers and brake calipers.
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finish only for looks , this transmission is coolant cooled , and heated to help bring up to temp ,
has a termal bypass valve attached to it . the heat '' exchanger '' bolted to it looks a little like the
oil cooler on the engine .
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Recognize your Thumb Captain ?????????????? LOL .
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post # 3 in this linked thread talks about " normal " temperatures for the transmission .
====> Trans temps
normal temp operating range is 175-212f. .. posted on site here somewhere.
![84972]( "84972")
![84973]( "84973")
has a termal bypass valve attached to it . the heat '' exchanger '' bolted to it looks a little like the
oil cooler on the engine .
--------------
Recognize your Thumb Captain ?????????????? LOL .
-----------------------
post # 3 in this linked thread talks about " normal " temperatures for the transmission .
====> Trans temps
normal temp operating range is 175-212f. .. posted on site here somewhere.
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Yes "Ziggy", I realize that. There was however no mention, that I could find, about the bolts. I also was curious of everyone's choose of finish and the reason for that choice. So the question in it's entirety was not "literally" just answered.
Thanks "overlook", exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks "overlook", exactly what I was looking for.
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I reused bolts, spacers, and gasket. I went with the raw finish, it's a beauty.
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2,772 Posts
Sorry. I'm curmudgeonly and sometimes jump the gun.
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Changed pans yesterday.
Huge improvement in 1-2 gear shifts. Maybe placebo, but the other gears shift better as well. 1-2 shifts before was almost harsh like a shift kit in a old Camaro, to the point i often used 2nd gear when starting off. Used Amsoil fluid with 1/2 bottle of Slick50 transmission additive. About 7 liters was used. About 1/2 liter drained back out as I was warming the transmission up.
I should had done this sooner. Truck has near 80k miles. Last 15k was GDE trans tuned.
I was shocked at how much metal was on the factory pan magnets. I cleaned them and glued them back into the bottom of the PPE pan. Extra magnets can't hurt.
Huge improvement in 1-2 gear shifts. Maybe placebo, but the other gears shift better as well. 1-2 shifts before was almost harsh like a shift kit in a old Camaro, to the point i often used 2nd gear when starting off. Used Amsoil fluid with 1/2 bottle of Slick50 transmission additive. About 7 liters was used. About 1/2 liter drained back out as I was warming the transmission up.
I should had done this sooner. Truck has near 80k miles. Last 15k was GDE trans tuned.
I was shocked at how much metal was on the factory pan magnets. I cleaned them and glued them back into the bottom of the PPE pan. Extra magnets can't hurt.
Good comment on the metal pan. I would recommend that for those in the desert regions or other parts of the deep south. In Canada, I am using the ATP PPE aftermarket pan - I need the transmission to warm up to operating temp when it is -30F outside.
As far as the manufacturer recommended lifetime no service hair brained idea, I think the goal is to meet their concept of a 5 year 100,000 mile lifetime and also to keep the “perception” of operating costs low. You are also expected to trade it in lbefore the 5 year mark. My idea of life time is in excess of 500,000 km and about 10 to 12 years.
A final two nails for the coffin containing the lifetime no service mantra:
1) ZF has some pretty clear ideas about changing the fluid. They do not believe in lifetime and it is their design. 80,000 km for severe service and longer of light duty service.
2). you need to remember these are the same people (Fiat Chrysler) who thought it was a good idea to use 5W30 for engine oil. They woke up one day when there were too many main bearing failures and revised their spec to 5W40 Shell T6. If you change the ATF and try not to abuse the equipment, your ZF Transmission will last a true lifetime 500k + km and 10 to 12 years.
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Does this pan fit on the jeep? I just hit 50k on the wifes jeep and would like to service the tranny before or at 65k....
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1,990 Posts
Thought I would post a Tranny UOA taken at 150,000 miles of the OEM fluid. At the time replaced with OEM fluid. Given Vern uses Valvoline Max Life every 100k may switch to that. Valvoline 5w40 in the crankcase and Valvoline 75w140 in the rear now.
Attachments
Thanks for posting.
It is very good to see that the results at 150k miles are not terrible. Another positive is the “in fluid” oxidation levels are on the lower side - there is likely some varnish build up but the new fluid will dissolve it.
The wording about the fluid being on the older side reinforces the need to change it as per ZF recommendations.
The results show that it will not crater if left unchecked at least for 150k miles but it also shows that there is an end poInt out there. The choice is up to the owner - change the fluid with some regularity or make sure to sell it before the clock runs out.
I’m on the side of changing; and if I were to buy a truck with 150k miles on it - the results suggest that I could simply refresh the fluid and carry on.
Is the transmission still working ok ?
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How is your transmission shifting now after waiting 150K to change your your transmission fluid?
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Remains flawless, now has 265k total so 115k on this fluid.
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