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ZF 8HP70 Transmission Service

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78K views 60 replies 29 participants last post by  Jerome11  
#1 ·
Greetings everyone! In my quest for ensuring I changed my transmission properly I reached out to ZF for instructions and they kindly sent back the attached file. Just wanted to pass along the knowledge. I recently changed my transmission fluid and followed these exactly, I also installed the PPE all aluminum pan with replaceable filter (figured I'd give it a shot since it was the same price as the plastic OEM pan; PPE pan holds 2 extra quarts though). All went well. If anyone needs pointers or has questions feel free to ask! http:https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58e07b7e808e4/ZF Trans Service Instructions.pdf
 
#5 ·
I'd service it. I did mine at 38k miles because I'm big into preventative maintenance. FCA says that this is a fill for life transmission but that's BS; ZF recommends changing the fluid every 40k to 60k miles depending on the driving conditions. If you tow you definitely want to change it around 40k.
 
#7 ·
It will be interesting to check that out. My 5 series BMW had an almost identical transmission..the earlier generation. It contained what BMW referred to as 'lifetime' fluid although they later amended that. The real problem is that while the fluid may be 'lifetime' the gasket is definitely not..the gasket leaks, you end up with a couple quarts less fluid and start having problems. nobody puts a dipstick on anymore so you never even know..unless you have stains on your driveway. The earlier generation transmission had the filter attached to the pan..so you bought a new pan and bolts in order to replace. I'm also curious if the refill procedure is the same..you had to pump the fluid up into the transmission with all 4 wheels off the ground..then run it through the gears to pull it up into the torque converter..then fill again. Also its worth noting that the only way to drain the entire transmission was with the computer that could instruct the vehicle to eject 100% of the fluid..otherwise if you want to get 100% replacement you might have to drain, run, and refill 3 or 4 times since about half of the fluid remains in the torque converter. I am due for a fluid change on my Ram now..so this information couldn't have come at a better time.
 
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#8 ·
It sounds similar to the BMW. Wheels don't need to be in the air though. It also isn't a flush, that isn't recommended and I don't know if it's even possible. I took about 6 quarts out and put 8 in (new pan has higher capacity). There were a few quarts left in there but that's also why I decided to do it early, keep the life of the oil going. I'll end up doing it every 40k miles at a cost of about $200. I bought Ravenol ATF (same as lifeguard 8 but less expensive). The step by step instructions are straight forward and I replaced the gasket for $15. Good luck!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
M
#10 ·
Why on earth cant they develop a transmission with a spin on filter only and a cold level or hot level check plug and be done with it?

For years and years transmissions had dipsticks and it was a piece of cake.

I changed the transmission fluid on my wife's ford escape followed directions, it didn't have a dipstick and shortly after we started having problems. Fortunately it was still under powertrain warranty and it was determined to be an electrical issue which I couldn't have screwed up because all I did was pull drain and fill plugs.
 
#12 ·
My cluster displays trans temp. I was going to use my scan tool but couldn't find the trans temp display, so after warming it up per the directions I got under the truck and opened the fill plug. I topped it off and let the oil stream until single drops and put the plug back. It was in the temp window (86F to 126F or close to that) for at least ten minutes at idle, plenty of time.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
M
#13 ·
So you just used the temp read out from the truck? Would be interesting to know if the temp read out on the instrument cluster was the same as the one with a scan tool, same sensor just a different screen.

Thanks for sharing I saved it!
 
#14 ·
You're welcome! I did just use the truck readout, even if it's a few degrees off it'll be fine. I opened the fill plug at 90F and closed it at 120F. You don't need to have it open the whole time, that's just the window to fill and check. From my understanding it starts to expand higher than 126F. Glad you found the doc helpful.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
M
#16 ·
Why would the seal go out? Ive never seen a transmission pan seal fail that hadn't been reused.

I have several vehicles that we change trans fluid at 100k that see tow service regularly that are still running strong at 200k. One of our vehicles we don't tow with has never had a trans change at almost 200k and it runs great and the fluid is still bright and smells good.

I think 60k is overkill for modern fluids and transmissions unless your putting it though some extreme use.
 
#17 ·
MAS said:
Why would the seal go out? Ive never seen a transmission pan seal fail that hadn't been reused.
Click to expand...
Are you joking ? Every seal on an automobile eventually leaks..you just think they aren't because its a tiny amount. Gaskets start breaking down almost immediate and have significant deterioration after after even 50K. The problem with a sealed system is you never know you're low until damage is done. Its correct that synthetic fluids last much longer but they are not infallible. Sure plenty of vehicles can last over 200K before their transmission pops but believe me..plenty don't. The AVERAGE is 7 or 8 years and 100-150K. Contaminants enter even a sealed system through vents and even minor breakdown of the fluids can leave deposits on the internal parts. Changing more often is just insurance..may pay off and it may not but it cant hurt. As far as the color and smell of the fluid..every one of my vehicles that blew a transmission was like that...right up till the point that it blew.
 
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M
#18 ·
If we were talking cork gaskets I would believe they break down in 50k miles. Modern gaskets are much better. I do most of my transmission services at around 100k miles on modern vehicles 2000 or so and newer depending on use and none have had any seepage or build up around seals. I also find that the seal/gasket that comes from the factory on new cars is usually a much higher quality than what you get in a filter/gasket set from the parts houses.
 
#19 ·
MAS.

I had a Subaru Legacy with a spin-on transmission filter AND a dipstick/filler tube!
 
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#20 ·
Hey guys ordering the filter / pan from Rock Auto (replaceable) and using approved amsoil fluid (13$ cad per L) . This service is going to be affordable. Finally. Lol how many liters are you guys putting in ?
 
#23 ·
Is that the PPE aluminum pan? It will take at least 8 liters. I'd get 10 to be sure. You won't be fully swapping fluid, about 4 liters will stay in there unless you do the service a few times in a week, but that seems wasteful.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
#22 ·
i know guys have been using that fluid with no issues. im going with AMSOIL because it actually states 8&9 speed transmissions. I also need some CVT fluid for my wifes compass.
 
H
#24 ·
Had cars with 100k change intervals. (ainsin). That had plenty of problems early on and even a partial rebuild due to defective valve body. So lots of fresh fluid by 15k. Started having problems again at 70k so did a drain and refill at that time. Car totalled at 120k


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#25 ·
10L the transmission only holds a bit over 8 completely empty? It's the filter off rock auto ATP B453 has a replacement filter as well.
 
#29 ·
ordered the transmaxx filter pan assembly from rockauto for 115$ CAD. I called and they said it will fit. box is labeled 8HP45 tho LOL ...hmm
 
#34 ·
doing the service in a month or so im at 150,000 KM its time lol
 
#35 ·
Okay, so in the .pdf there are no draining instructions. So I'm going to assume that it's just like Shawn and that other guy on YouTube say and just drain. I was concerned that this would not drain the torque converter. So I'm not going to drain and then crank it up since the .pdf clearly states not to run the engine without the fluid in the transmission.

Anyhow, I've printed the .pdf and will just drain and then use the procedure therein.
 
#40 ·
I am planning to go with ZF's fluid even though it's more expensive. Shucks, I should have done it already but I just can't seem to get the funds together! The big truck finally seems to be dependable--after ~$40,000 in repairs last year--and now the freight has dropped off as is usual this time of year. :( Shucks, I was supposed to change the oil about 800 miles ago and haven't done that yet! So the oil will be a ~13,000 mile interval and I will be sure to post the analysis.
 
#37 ·
Know when I drained mine it was miserable. Not sure it all came out. Do know you cannot just fill the thing. It will be 2-3 its low when filled cold. The procedure to fully fill is hideous but can be done at home. I did it with a friend operating the controls and only on front wheel ramps. Kind of frightening to be inches and brushing against the DPF trying to work while things are running.

http://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/...rum/ram-1500-diesel-transmission/43218-how-change-transmission-fluid-check.html

In the future I would take it to a shop with a lift or just have a knowledgable shop change things out.
 
#38 ·
The parts are hugely expensive here in canada for OEM parts and oil. I know there are alternatives and I dont want to get into that. I found a local tranny place that will source OEM parts and oil and charge me $210 in labour. With all Ive read about what a PITA this is, I think its a good plan to let the pro's do this one.
 
#39 ·
Not sure but think I had less than $75 in Amsoil fluid to do my change. Now if you want to change the filter, which IS the transmission pan, that's hundreds of dollars for that factory part. Aftermarket is not cheap either.

The local tranny place should be versed on the drain and fill procedure. Ask how they are going to do it. If they start off by saying anything related to opening up the fill plug to check the fluid level cold - RUN. The cold level is over two quarts ABOVE that fill plug. I would be cautious that they actually know how to do it.
 
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