Try a fuel pressure test. I think a scanner will tell if your loosing pressure on the high side. Sorry I've not done this before but it would be a good start. Also check around the fuel injectors for possible leaky seal.

 

I am no mechanic but using hot shots or buying fuel somewhere else wont help. That shouldn't effect fuel getting into oil that much. You have a water sepetator on the filter. I have heard that regrens that don't complete constantly due to short city driving cam be a factor. Diesel in oil should burn off if oil temps gets up to operating temp. Or you could be getting bad samples. I have watched dealers pull samples at all different times during oil drain. Again not a mechanic but maybe a leaking injector?
Excessive idle could be a factor too

 

Using a different fuel and injection cleaner won't hurt though. I did write above that I don't take short trips and I don't idle much. The last sample was taken after towing to Iowa and back home to Texas where the oil temps were over 230F for long periods of time. I took the samples hot with a vampire pump.

Does it run a little ruff when you first start it after a cold soak ? If so that "could" be the sign of a leaking Injector.

No. It starts and runs just fine on a cool 80 degree summer morning in Texas.

Has anyone had their injectors replaced under the AEM warranty?

 

Does it run a little ruff when you first start it after a cold soak ? If so that "could" be the sign of a leaking Injector.

 

I would think the dealer would replace injectors based on the oil analysis. Even if they say no, at least it's documented that you brought the issue to their attention. Then any future issues leaves them on the hook.

 

I have a little issue with fuel diluting the engine oil. For the last three oil analyses the fuel dilution % is rising steadily.
10,000 miles-4%
10,000 miles-9%
5,500 miles 6% Oil Analyzers had initially estimated the dilution to be I tow a trailer some. I don't idle the truck excessively. I only drive the truck if the trip will be 20 miles or more. I buy diesel from Walmart/Murphy mostly. I have the AEM @GDE compliant tune. I average about 23 MPG in normal driving and 14 MPG towing. The regerations of the DPF are about 250-275 miles in general.

My plan is to-
1-Buy better diesel when I can (Exxon/Mobil Synergy)
2-Run Amsoil, Opti-Lube, Hot Shot's Diesel injector cleaner at full strength for the next 4,000 miles and send in another oil sample for testing.

Since the AEM extended warranty covers the injectors, what criteria would the dealer use to replace them? Just my oil samples? Oil analysis isn't required so if I didn't do that and changed my oil every 8,000 miles due to biodiesel I still could be harming my engine unknowingly.

I don't think I've seen anyone else that has had this problem on the Oil Analysis thread.

View attachment 92496

My truck is a 14, 116k miles and about identical to yours as far as tuning, MPG and DPF regen intervals. My last oil change it was stated my Fuel Dilution was around 6%. That was at a 10k mile interval. I’m planning to pull a sample at 5000 miles and test again. All my testing up to date has been flawless until this previous one. I did black stone before Oil Analyzer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

@biodiesel - perhaps this starts to answer your inquiry.

 

What is the inquiry? Inquiring minds want to know! Lol

 

I’d guess sticking injector, But I’ve gotta ask , Are you getting more regen’s than normal? Possibly diluting oil with excessive fuel from regens …
Your DPF could be getting tired…. DPF filters crap out around 120-150k miles ….

 

Your DPF could be getting tired…. DPF filters crap out around 120-150k miles ….

Where have you seen this 120-150k figure?

 

I am almost positive that fuel dilution caused my failure at 88k on a '15. 5k after last oil change. Oil level when it failed was way above the high mark and reeked of diesel. I brought this to their attention and the $7k they wanted to replace my motor, with only AEM warranty, eventually got down to $3k.

 

My 2016 Lariat just went in today to the dealer for fuel dilution. I don't know the percentage but after I put on a bypass filter and ran for 7k I had it tested and it came back red for dilution. I changed the oil and both filters added another 100 bucks worth of T6 drove it for 2600 miles and tested and it came up orange on the testing. Truck has 34600 miles runs great, has a GDE tune, regens every 100 to 120 miles (really annoying).

We'll see what the tech finds, but I am suspecting a bad injector and I'm worried if they don't find it that cylinder will be wasted from the lubricant wash down.

So we have seen pictures of torn down engines with the mains totally plugged with soot or carbon, now there is this dilution problem. Gee I wonder why these thing are checking out.....

Guess I'll just use straight 30w and change it every 2000 miles, what a joke, and don't bother to tell me to sell it if I don't like it, I don't intend to take the 20 to 30 grand depreciation hit, and that is a really stupid, ignorant response. I paid 50 grand for a recall queen that has to be held together with bailing twine and duct tape and limp mode.

 

Where is the best place to get the oil analyzer test kits from?

 

I buy the kits from Amsoil. If you are a "preferred customer" they are about $22.
If you get the kit with shipping included it will go to the lab in Indy. If you buy the kit without postage you can choose which lab to send it to. Since you're close to Houston, that would be the option that would probably take the least amount of time. The UPS pre-paid is convenient though.

 

I think the dealer will not be able to warranty anything based off of any customers tests done outside of dealer network . Just my guess . As far as what your techs should check in this situation it is discussed in this video . Fuel correction. Something I like to do is pull out my dipstick and get a couple drops on a non painted piece of cardboard . Fuel saturated diesel oil will leave a less wet ring around the oil in the center . Does what is happening in your bearings .
P0299 ECODIESEL 3.0 PART 3

 

Thanks for sharing this video. This is what @OhioTech was talking about in this post on the OA thread.

Oil Analysis Lab Test Results

We know you have posted your results elsewhere in the Forum. Now there is one place to look for oil analysis and related commentary. Encourage you repost results if you want, all new test results here please. Thanks.:)

www.ram1500diesel.com

Definitely need to investigate this further.

I think the dealer will not be able to warranty anything based off of any customers tests done outside of dealer network . Just my guess . As far as what your techs should check in this situation it is discussed in this video . Fuel correction. Something I like to do is pull out my dipstick and get a couple drops on a non painted piece of cardboard . Fuel saturated diesel oil will leave a less wet ring around the oil in the center . Does what is happening in your bearings .
P0299 ECODIESEL 3.0 PART 3

 

Man. @Lord of my dogs that really stinks. Hopefully I can get a better result from the dealer but I'm not too confident.

 

Here are the average fuel correction numbers I got from Alph OBD this morning-
This is a cold (75F) startup and idle for about 5 min
Cyl 1 .3
Cyl 2 .4
Cyl 3 .1
Cyl 4 .27
Cyl 5 .05
Cyl 6 .3

Doesn't look too bad.

So I'll run this logging function while driving and see what happens.

 

See ^^^

What do you think @Ramguycalifornia @OhioTech ?

 

I doubt it’s an injector problem.

 

So..after another run this afternoon when everything was warmed up, it looks kinda like I have two injectors acting up a bit.
Cylinder 1 is around 1.1
Cylinder 6 is around .8
It's kinda strange though they seem to be a bit variable from one start and run to the next. Maybe I haven't really figured out the Alpha OBD yet.

 

That reading is useless I just installed 6 brand new mopar fuel injectors and did all the resets and trim codes. Mine is all over still I dont think there of any diagnostic use even service manuals dont use them, they use return flows instead which is more accurate.

 

From the UOA thread

Another option would be to pull the injectors and send them off to get tested. Broken rings would cause high crankcase pressure and likely a P04DB code. S&S diesel motorsports charges around $60 per injector to test them.

It depends they can clean or repair them to some extent but thats for them to decide. There not that bad to replace all six new cost about a grand, parts only.

Nope they have to be checked manually

I see where this is headed

Thanks for the insight and advice.

 

I seem to remember several UOAs over on BITOG where it was pointed out that repeated overuse of fuel additives (regardless of brand) resulted in fuel in the oil. The recommendation always came back to check fuel supply and people starting putting 2+2 together (and yes, it's always and ONLY 4) and decided the fuel additives in use every tankful was the culprit.

Having said that, I use a fuel additive now and then, but I stick to the dose as instructed on the bottle. I haven't done any UOAs on this truck and I don't plan to.

Instead of swapping out injectors, I would try LiquiMoly Diesel Purge right before the next oil change (to keep fuel dilution to a minimum).

 

Well, the two samples that have shown dilution from my truck had no or little fuel additive.
Wouldn’t it be best to use an additive early on in the oil’s service so that it doesn’t get diluted with fuel?

One thing I haven't seen suggested is the percent of bio in the diesel you're running. Bio has been known to have blow by issues and will not boil off as easily as D2. Not sure if the oil analysis looks at bio versus D2 or if they can easily determine the difference.

We do have B5 diesel here in places. I’ve never knowingly used anything higher than B5. Of course the sticker says “May contain biodiesel up to 5%” so not sure what I actually get from Walmart/Murphy and other retailers. I have begun to use Exxon/Mobil Synergy diesel exclusively just to try to remove one variable as much as possible. Or to have one supplier to point a finger ( or pat on the back) time will tell.

 

One thing I haven't seen suggested is the percent of bio in the diesel you're running. Bio has been known to have blow by issues and will not boil off as easily as D2. Not sure if the oil analysis looks at bio versus D2 or if they can easily determine the difference.

 

Well, the two samples that have shown dilution from my truck had no or little fuel additive.
Wouldn’t it be best to use an additive early on in the oil’s service so that it doesn’t get diluted with fuel?

I should have clarified; Diesel Purge is intended to be run straight from and back to the can/container it comes in. Doing so maximizes the cleaning effect. When the bottle is near empty, you shut it down, install a new fuel filter and then continue on with the oil change.

 

I guess I'm not familiar with this or how it would work without causing problems, CELs etc.. I have seen in instructions for Liqui-Moly that state to add it to the filter bowl.
I asked about it here in this thread.

 

It can be added to a new fuel filter, yes, but since much of the fuel is then returned to the tank it is getting diluted. On my other diesels I've got a setup with two hoses, one in-line fuel filter, which i hook up to run straight from the can. Then I rev the engine at various rpms while running the Diesel Purge.

You don't have to pull fuses for the fuel pump or anything, just connect the feed line back to the return line where they would normally hook up to the fuel filter. You're basically bypassing the tank and in-tank pump and creating a closed loop in effect. The engine itself and HPFP runs off the Diesel Purge only.

The whole operation takes about 15-20 minutes depending on the engine's consumption.

 

I asked about fuel dilution of the engine oil on 'Bob Is The Oil Guy' and a seemingly knowledgeable fella said he thought it may be the drive seal of the HPFP leaking fuel into the engine.
He said it was a common failure.

Whatcha'all think?

 

Possible but not likely without low rail pressure codes. Do you work the truck hard and use heavy throttle often?

 

I do tow a 6,500-7,000lb Airstream travel trailer some. The last oil sample that was 5,500 miles about half was towing. I don't work it hard the rest of the time. Just highway miles in normal Texas driving 70-75 MPH.

 

I don't know if this will help, and I doubt it would hurt, but I'm giving it a try. I've been told the esters in this can clean rings and possibly make elastomers in seals swell a tiny but and seal leaks.
We shall see.

After I run this I'm going to switch to High Performance Lubricants (HPL) CK-4 HDEO. HPL seems to be the 'cool' oil to use these days on BITOG. If you buy some, don't forget the 15% off with code BITOG15

Engine Cleaner

HPL Engine Cleaner is designed for those who wish to clean deposits in their engines left behind from commodity type lubricants that are designed to “meet the spec.” Engine Cleaner is specially formulated and fortified with detergents and dispersants providing safe cleaning in the engine. When...

www.advlubrication.com

 

Last oil change could not get t6 had yo go with mobile esp. 5 40. Now at 200k needing oil change I get message that oil viscosity is low and truck goes into limp mode. Have to stop what I am doing and complete oil change. Saved the oil and ordered oil analysis to check. Anyone else had the ecu. tell them the oil was bad?

 

That code means your 500 miles over on your oil change. Thats based on the computer algorithm and it does not actually know if the oil is good or not.

 

Yes, a used oil analysis is well worth the $35.75 from Oil Analyzers Inc. Since Blackstone can only estimate the actual fuel dilution of the oil and doesn't perform Gas Chromatography of the oil and cost is similar, I wouldn't recommend them for UOA.

 

Yes, a used oil analysis is well worth the $35.75 from Oil Analyzers Inc.

That's the one I would recommend, too.