Is it all of the pins, Including the +12 terminal? You may have to trace the harness up to the front of the truck.
If it's just the trailer brake, the output is variable based on vehicle speed. I believe this applies to the manual lever also.

 

the only 12+ volts i get is at the #5 terminal on the truck (left turn, brake).
i will double check everything after work tonight.

 

Not going to belittle your ability to check fuses, but there is a section for trailer fuses alone in the panel. Pull them out one at a time and check them with a meter, lowest Ohm setting. You get a zero or very close to it, fuse is good. If there's no reading, fuse is bad. Let us know how you make out.

 

hey man...i’ll take any help i can get. im not offended.
so ya...there are 2 20amp fuses i found. one labled tow/left brake and one labled tow/right brake....if i remember correctly.
i did pull both these fuses, but only gave them a visual and they looked fine, but i will check resistance on them tonight.
thanks.

i desperately need to get this sorted put and fast...anyone ever install one of those tow light power moduals before. i see one on amazon for $50 and it has internal overload protection or circuit breaker of some sort. easy, yet half assed fix??

 

The tow modules were an ideal fix for the older RAMs, if you had a short in the trailer system, you had to take the truck in to get it reset, max of 3 times and then the whole module had to be changed at around $700. If the tow module has lower value fuses then they would blow before the truck ones do which would be good.

 

I see a couple of relay in addition to the fuses ,
maybe they are not pushed in all the way ...??
fuses 28 ,29 ,30 ,81 ,53 , 4 or 5 relays used for different trailer related stuff
including the trailer brakes control as seen in PDF files.
..
I have 2 wiring diagrams , I don't know the difference between the 2 ..

 

thanks for those kazimodo

 

thanks Crash.

i just did some quick minor tests.
all related fuses are in place and are in good working order...tested with the mulitmeter.
i have perfect continuity at 0-0.001 ohms from the ground terminal on the truck tow connection, to the (-) post on the battery...connected with a long peice of wire i attached to it.
when the truck and lights are on. i have a normal 14v of power when the brake is pressed to the left brake/blinker terminal only.
everything else is showing like .20 to .80v when truck is on or off.... whats up with that??

also, is there a terminal fed directly from the (+) side of the battery?
if so i should have +12V there at all times right?
i guess i should check that for continuity as well??

 

is there a terminal fed directly from the (+) side of the battery?
if so i should have +12V there at all times right?
i guess i should check that for continuity as well??

The top right blade in the connector is the +12 V connection. It should be hot all the time. Mine is tapped to power the lights inside my topper.
It's printed on the cover of the 7 pin but this is a little easier to see:

 

I had an epiphany ....well ok maybe not quite that extreme but something I would try if you haven't already been doing while troubleshooting.
Pull the plug out of the back of the 7 pin plug in the bumper and test that directly.
If that comes up crickets, I might be able to get some screenshots of wire harness routings on Friday.

 

thanks guys.

i did test from the connection behind the 7/4 pin connector. which looks super clean and corrosion free.

about the relays...i dont know which realy is for which side.
the listed relays/fuses and their location etched on the backside of the fuse box lid doesnt mention anything to do with the tow lights at all.
let me have another look at that wire diagram but im pretty sure it doesnt show a location like it does for the fuses.

 

i wish i knew how to post pictures.

a few queations about the wiring diagram posted a few posts back.
what does the dotted/dashed lines represent between various wires?
for example....half way up the red/brown/black/green/yellow wires, there is a dashed line and it says INLINE-BODY/CHASSIS beside it. is this a plug connection of some sort? somewhere I can do some testing on..if I can find it.
also the light blue shadded areas....are these harness conmections??
sorry for the stupid questions...im really trying to learn this crap lol

 

a few queations about the wiring diagram posted a few posts back.
what does the dotted/dashed lines represent between various wires?
for example....half way up the red/brown/black/green/yellow wires, there is a dashed line and it says INLINE-BODY/CHASSIS beside it. is this a plug connection of some sort? somewhere I can do some testing on..if I can find it.
also the light blue shadded areas....are these harness conmections??
sorry for the stupid questions...im really trying to learn this crap lol

There is never a stupid question except the one not asked...and I just had another idea what to look at (due in part to your questions)
The blue shaded areas is something in the truck, there is usually a description like Assembly Power Distribution Center (remember this it will be important)
The INLINE-BODY/CHASSIS is a connector somewhere located in the vehicle, as stated earlier I might be able to to get a pic of where this is located but I don't think it will be needed.
The dotted lines represent a plug that all of those wires are located in. Here's where I hope this all come together for you. You said everything but the left turn/stop is dead, look at the first diagram. The ones that dead are all in the C7 plug on the back of the Assembly Power Distribution Center, the left side one is in the C5 plug. The numbers in the squares is the pin number of the plugs. Your probably going to have to pull the fuse block to get to this.
If I could I would come by drink your beer(lol) and help you dig into this one, curiosity has the best of me now.

 

well shit...if that dont make sense, nothing does.
good call on the troubled wires all in one plug/connection.
i’ll definitely get looking at those hopefully tonight.
i’m learing a lot here which is always cool.
i’ll report back asap.

my beers are always cold! ����

 

one bit of info , just noticed the wiring diagram is for a 2017 ,
could it be different in model year 2015 ???
..

--------------------------------------
No numbers on the 2 relay , but ,
left side associated fuse : #12 C5
right side associated fuse :#33 C7

 

one bit of info , just noticed the wiring diagram is for a 2017 ,
could it be different in model year 2015 ???
No numbers on the 2 relay , but ,
left side associated fuse : #12 C5
right side associated fuse :#33 C7

I doubt there is much difference in the wiring, if anything changed it was in 2015 when the module programming changed.
The C5 #12 and C7 #33 pins go-to the coil side of the relays and are controlled from the BCM
The left turn/brake fuse is F53 and is in the C5 plug pin #34
The right side turn/brake fuse is F81 and is in the C7 plug pin #30

 

My truck had issues w/ fuses blowing on 4 and 7 pin plugs...was trying to pull local high school band trailer...kept having issues. Don't remember fuse amps but I think was 20amps...replaced w/ 10 amps higher (30?) and fuse never blew again pulling the band trailers.

is this dangerous? IDK but my dad was a lineman for FPL and said it was nothing to ever worry about....that was 100,000 miles ago...

 

ok so last night i pulled the fuse box, disconnected what I thought would be the C7 connection according to the fuse lovations above. everything looked clean and dry. no sign of anything suspicious.
definitely a little nerve racking messing with that stuff. there are a lot of wires under there.
i tried to locate all the wires in the diagram at there listed positions according to the small square boxes on the diagram. very hard to make out the numbers on the connection. there were some discrepancies between the colours on the drawing and the connector.
anyways everything looked fine to me.
i also pulled every relay in the box and put 12v on them to make sure they actually flip the switch inside.

did a continuity test on the 12+ pin from the tow connection to the battery....no volts. already kinda knew that tho.

im really thinking this inline body/chassis connection is on the most wanted list at this point.
at least if i can find it, i can try and narrow down if its north or south of that point.

 

Big connector located on driver side of the frame close to the back of the fuel tank if I remember right.

 

is it one of those connectors Patroller ??? the first one is closer to the front of the truck....

 

is it one of those connectors Patroller ??? maybe the first one is too close to the front of the truck....

Pretty sure that's the one, thanks for the photo, I was just about to slither under the truck.

 

.

 

as you can see, i drive some pretty shitty roads daily.
anyone know for sure which connector on the frame(i see 3) is the inline-body/chassis connection that i have the arrow beside on the wire diagram???

 

tester time ,,, I guess
see how far the proper voltage goes , then find broken connection or broken wire .
..
the bunch of wires at the trailer plug in the back must be traceable with eyes to see where it goes
time to get out the archeology brushes and clean up the area to be inspected,, I have found Mopar wiring to be brittle
since late 90's .
Good Luck .
,,,,,,,,, hopefully the mud will fall off easily

 

This is the location of the inline-body/chassis harness, per what is given to the tech at the dealer

 

thank you Crash.
I’ll have to wait a day or two to get some time to dig in again. i will keep you all posted.

 

not much to report yet.
i’ve been very busy with work so havent had much time to investigate further.
but, due to my lack of time, and desperate need for trailer lights...i installed one of those tow power moduals to get me by in the meantime. which is working perfectly at the moment.

on a side note...i’ve been looking at new trucks and at what mine might be worth on trade. doing so i’ve come across a few used ED’s with over 300,000km. good to see.