I doubt you will notice much difference, the biggest thing with a TT while under way at highway speed is the wind resistance not the weight and they will be similar.

I have 3.55 gears so similar max tow rating to what you have. Our TT is a little over 6,000 empty and gross 7300 I think I have towed it with no overheats and no issues, but haven't been close to mountains.

 

My toy hauler is 6600# empty and around 7500# loaded, truck has the 3.55 gears and GDE tune. I don't haul water, usually fill up at the destination.

I've swapped to a better flowing grille, removed the shutters, and installed an external oil cooler. I've only bounced off the 265º oil alarm a few times, and even though it's easily avoidable with throttle discipline, I opted for better cooling.

 

I have 3.55 gears on my 2015 Tradesman ED. I towed our 29' TT over Wolf Creek Pass in Colorado last October and it did fine. Trailer weighs about 6900 loaded with a tw @ 900. Temperatures were fine, 225-230 water, 240-255 oil. They cooled quickly after reaching the summit. I didn't win any races but averaged 45mph to 50 as I don't like to push it hard. I usually tow about 60 0n the flats.

 

Wind resistance is the issue running along. Probably the same as the old trailer. Uphill is where the weight issue comes in and speeds maintained factor in. So, slow down.

Easier said than done as I roasted my transmission pulling up a long hill at Interstate speeds. It takes a whole lot of self control to deal with and watch your temperatures under conditions you know need watched. Some of us have that. Some of us just eat all the pie and vow to eat less later.

If you have a measure of self-control and can monitor your temperatures without intimidation from traffic speed, go for it. These engines do pull well and I would not expect any real issues compared to the old trailer.

 

You should be just fine with the new trailer. I towed a combined weight of 14,540 lbs truck, payload and cargo trailer 2600+ miles from southeast Alabama to Western Washington. Total weight given from a truck stop Cat scale. I worked out the trailer to be weighing in at 7,675 lbs, empty truck was 5,800 lbs and payload the remaining 1,065 lbs. 855 lbs of the trailer was on the tongue, using the bathroom scale method, so overall gross payload weight on the truck was actually 1,920 lbs.

My truck drove and handled great from the rolling hills of the southeast and central US to the mountain passes through the Rockies. I have the "worst" Laramie grill but I managed my temps with speed. Max temp I ever saw was 255 on the oil but averaged around 235 @ 60-65mph.

btw, my book payload rating is about 1000 pounds and max trailer rating is 7200.

 

My experience identical to BlackhawkSI and agree. Addition of Timbren SES springs for $215 also helps. Adds 8,600LBS to payload, is passive, take 10 minutes to install, and cost $215. Leave 1.5" gap when unloaded BTW

 

Airbags do not increase your payload capacity.

 

They are not airbags.

DR1500DQ ? Rear Axle SES Suspension Upgrade | Timbren Industries Inc. Suspension Products

 

No aftermarket part increases payload capacity it doesn’t not matter how it works. The only way to increase payload capacity is to drop the vehicle weight and adding parts does not do that.

 

Airbags do not increase your payload capacity

Brokedownbutgood brings up a good point about max payload as my truck has four corner air ride from the factory. With my current trailer once I set it up properly in jack mode just a matter of dropping the trailer unto the ball and let the truck level itself out. Believe as long as I keep the overall weight within truck payload I'm good. Well need to look into this.

 

3.92 gear would give you another 1,000 pounds of rated tow capacity and make it a little easier to move that weight & keep its cool but you will be fine. Just limit climbing longer steeper grades to 3k for heat control. Running into the wind at speed it won’t like either but 65 is normally comfortable for it. After reaching 266 oil the computer would start to pull fuel to slow you down but you can avoid that by backing off the throttle a bit.

Ram on the ram body builder site recommend a 10% tongue weight but even at 12% normally fairly easily attainable with WDH & a lil weight mgt would only be 860 pounds seen TW from a 7,200 pound TT. This should still leave you a lil room before hitting the GVWR. Just make sure when joined to your TT that you have replaced your unloaded steer axle weight & haven’t exceeded your drive axle weight.

Neither Timbren hollow bump stops nor airbags change your max axle weight rating or GVWR no matter what they can support. But especially axle to frame air bag set ups will help support control & dampen your rear suspension. No more wallowing through & over rough road or terrain as well as control ride & ride height to compliment your WDH. But set your bag pressure after setting your hitch & load per scale results.

 

Airbags, timbrens , blocks of wood and any other add on gadget does not change your payload or towing capacity. At best, they level the truck and help so it doesn’t bounce around so much. Stil not a bad idea but it is not the same a true suspension upgrade.

 

Here's a question on but off topic. As I read this thread and saw a comment about changing a grill for better air flow, does anyone make or is it even possible to add an electric cooling fan? Don't see why this wouldn't be possible even if it's a universal/generic fan that is zipped tied lol.

 

Well I suppose you could add a remote controlled150 mph leaf blower to the front bumper with some dryer air ducting.

 

The ecodiesel has an electric fan. Many say it isn't strong enough to draw enough air to adequately cool. Personally I think if it cant maintain a suitable temp at hwy speed without the fan the system is overtaxed. Many have said they want a mechanical fan... anyone know how much HP it requires to drive that big mechanical fan? I know with our Duramax (that had a plugged up radiator with grass seeds etc) you can feel the decrease in power when the fan kicks in, I don't want to know what that shot in the pants would do to a fully loaded ecodiesel going up a hill, probably start rolling backwards. To me the problem is too much heat dumped into too small/not efficient enough cooling system. Ive never had cooling problems in the past and all my tow vehicles have had hd towing option and all had coolant to oil/trans warmers and air to oil/trans coolers, I think the ecodiesel needs the same.

 

I bet the fan runs very little going down the highway unloaded. IMO it would benefit from a bigger radiator & relocating the Hot CAC from in front of the radiator. You can’t change to a crank fan but sounds like Ram addressed that for MY 19 with the 48 volt battery allowing for Twice the amperage therefore much greater power from the electric fan. Pretty cool more fan power without the loss of mpg via a crank driven fan.

 

I would think the alternator will get increasingly hard to turn as the electric demand grows no?

 

Just my opinion, you are on the edge and you have to ask yourself a few questions...

Are you ok with driving 60ish mph?
Are you planning to stay out of the mountains?
Do you travel through areas without wind? The new trailer will likely behave much differently in wind since there is more surface area.
Do you feel you could make an emergency maneuver? I had to make one last year and I am very thankful I had a bigger truck.
What consequences/financial/daily driver comfort are you willing to change if a larger truck is required. If a 2500 is a firm no go, then I would also think hard. I kind of had the attitude that if I needed to change my truck, i would.
How often and how far will you travel. If it is just weekend getaways within a couple hours and on flat land, you might be ok. If going partway across the country and includes mountains, then I would think hard.

I purchased a Jayco 28BHBE It is a bit larger and also a bit heavier. I just didn't like how it towed so went to a 2500. After my trip to colorado, very glad I upgraded as i hit some crosswinds on the flats..... It really isn't a power issue, but I feel you give up a lot of safety margin staying with a 1500 on that trailer. Also, I don't like operating at the max specs of anything for more than a brief period.......

 

My apologizes for using the term 'payload' should have stated 'options for high tow-load'; meant to address OP's original questions. I have learned much from this site!

Pulled my 12k offshore boat 600 miles round trip with the RAM in July Florida heat while my 7.3 was having turbo replaced. Assume GVW 19k...with over 100,000 miles on truck at the time.

What I can say is the effect of the Timbren spring was outstandingly safe at 65mph on an overloaded per spec truck! Highest temps were 235 F with a GDE tune. For a passive $215 option with 10 minute install they are cheap insurance.

 

The effect of the Timbrens May’s have been “ outstandingly safe” but pulling that trailer which was WAY over your GCWR was unsafe. Bad things can happen at any time but why encourage it ?

 

I don’t disagree with dee’s points but they may be a bit overstated.
Normally it will run with a 7,200 box TT pretty comfortably & efficiently at 65 all day long. As in avg 14.0 mpg no temp issues.
Mountain highway 5 & 6 grades should normally be climbed at 55 mph. Worse case simply limit sustained climbs to 3k. You will still be passing big trucks. But I get it some people “need” to be flying in the left lane. In which case an HD or a better cooling system is needed.

Descending grades is non issue especially with a trailer brake controller & or a tune’s turbo brake. I have a weight slip 15,800 CVW that came down long 5 & 6 percent grades with zero drama. Speed control without even useing the foot brake.

Handling wind & emergency maneuvers well will depend on hitch & axle weight distribution. It’s a matter of taking it to the scale & setting it up. But dee’s point is, more room for bad set up with an HD and that’s true.

Shawclan5, Very Cool. Fwiw boats as you know often have light TW percentage & good aerodynamics both of which help the ED. If you tow it again use a WDH if possible & I would run over a CAT scale. I would want between 3,300 & 3,900 on the front axle & would not feel safe at speed to be more than 10 percent over or 4,300 pounds on the drive. As pointed out 3,900 is rated max for commercial legal use. Friend of mine Steve once ran 4,700 pounds cross country on the drive axle of his ED not knowing until near destination. He learned to inspect the loads first & vowed not to make that mistake again. A bad pot hole at 65 & snap you could be a mess on the Hwy.

 

Something on top of the cab to break the wind for the trailer

56" x 22" Wind Deflector, Polar White - Icon Technologies 01508 - Trailer Wind Deflectors - Camping World

Lock it out of 8th gear, so it stays in seventh, slghtly undersized tires, and take your time.

 

Thanks all for your thoughts and input, I'm at the same place when I put up the post and that is unsure if I'll move up to a larger trailer. Last truck I towed at the top end of it's limits and was not a fun experience. I have no doubt this truck can pull heavier but I am concerned about keeping it at proper operating temp when under tow. I understand that GDE will be coming out with a CAC relocation kit and their are kits for removing\changing the factory oil cooler but I'm still under warranty and combined with the cost so in my world these are not an option. Wonder if I could rent a TT and take it out for a long weekend?

 

Shawclan5, Did that boat look like this?

 

Shawclan5, Did that boat look like this?

View attachment 62465

View attachment 62473

Wasn't wrapped, 29 foot WAC with bow pulpit and twin Yamaha 4 bangers so yes very aerodynamic. That rig actually looks as heavy/heavier with steel trailer than mine. Typically always pull with my X 7.3 however she was having turbo upgraded due to OEM failure at 240k.

Regularly pull 24' enclosed cargo trailer with 5 4-wheelers and 3 dirtbikes loaded with fuel, tools, and camping gear with the ED guesstimated at 8,500. These trucks are very powerful and can safely pull much weight.

 

Well lots of torque great gear spacing & 8 gears moves anything well to say 55 but more HP & cooling capacity is needed at speed when it no longer has significant gearing advantages to help overcome drag. You should CAT scale it. A good $11 investment. Sounds like you work your equipment but also maintain it. Shoot us some pics everybody likes pics.

 

Good stuff here... i am reading with much anticipation as i have a toyhauler (just got used) and weighs roughly 7k-depending on water and bikes inside. Ran a couple 10% grades and got really warm... I think the truck went into "protect mode" once as i found the temp guage at 3/4. Did not see Evic temp readout. anyhow... put in two 10inch pushers in the grill yesterday.I was able to JUST get them in behind my shutters with about 2mm clearance, they operate normally. Goona load the ol beast up and take for a test run. I'll post back with some pics and info later this weekend. I may start a thread devoted only to it...

I have a couple 10% grades here that i MUST go over to get out of the county, so the fans should help, an I also put in some Ride Rite air bags to stop squat... interestingly enough the EAZ lift instructions for setting up the WDH Give a good breakdown of how these are to be set. I can now tell many folks don't set them up at all! crazy. anyhow.. I set mine accordingly... sure made a huge diff on my lil 1500. Braking with the camper is a non issue with the Ram brake controller and having everything set right, I barely touch the brakes going down the long grades. I'd like to upgrade to a Hensley hitch eventually. Really dig the design and safety factor for emergency maneuvering.

 

For towing weight feedback, go to the Keystone forum. Lots of info there.

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I was reviewing information on Weight Distribution Hitches, because I was concerned that my 2016 Ram 1500 only has 1030 payload capacity. It appears that you don't actually distribute any of the tongue weight back toward the trailer axles. Consequently, the tongue weight is partially removed from the truck's rear axel and moved forward to the front axle. So if the tongue weight of the tow behind rv is 800 lbs,, essentially I will exceed the payload capacity with just the trailer and fuel. So bottom line is trailer tow capacity is the last thing one has to be concerned about. Payload capacity and trailer tongue weight are first on the list.

 

2018 Sport, 3.92 axel and tow package. Our old toy hauler with a load put us at ~12,000lbs combined, new toy hauler with a load puts us at ~13,000lbs. Both trailers were dragged through the BC mountains, temperatures only would climb a bit on looong uphill grades, it would maintain between 80-100km/hr. Never saw any temperatures on the display that worried me. Biggest difference is fuel usage, went from consistent 16l/100k to 19l/100k average. Heaviest load was a tractor on a car hauler, combined weight was over 14,000lbs. WDH used, and front / rear split was within ~300lbs truck has good manners with the load split. Adding Timbren blocks to the back didn’t change the weight split but did change the sag. I am constantly amazed that people will overload the rear axel because of airbags (no WDH) then complain about shitty handling. Airbags do not increase the rear axel capacity.