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I have never seen our ecodiesel EGR out, just some pictures. I did work quite a bit on VW Jettas. They also have EGR metal on metal, but they seal like engine valves. The carbon/oil buildup usually covers this area you can't even see valve itself...


The whole point of asking this is I am not in unique situation, if you ask me I would chop this POS off and throw it as far as I could, but most of us do have some sort of emission testing some sooner, some later.

So my goal is to keep this POS in place for the man with the flash light, it means to be discrete, but I want it be off as much as practical.

The problem with kits sold on market they all have massive +- 1/4" block off plates. Why not to have a 1/16" or even 1/32" 316 or 304 stainless plates and put them right between EGR and whatever it is connected to? The gaskets might be needed on both sides, which is not a problem.

In this case EGR will be there, it will look all connected but it will be isolated.
I understand your situation and agree that leaving it in place is needed for some. The main thing I worry about is giving advice that well harm the truck or owner/operator. Thin metal plates might stand up to the pressure but there is a lot there. My truck when running wot would build 65ish psia exhaust manifold with the gde tune. When running the turbo braking feature it would upwards of 80 psia that is a ridiculous amount for a 1/16 plate to hold but might be possible. It might work fine but without testing I cant confirm it well.
 
I understand your situation and agree that leaving it in place is needed for some. The main thing I worry about is giving advice that well harm the truck or owner/operator. Thin metal plates might stand up to the pressure but there is a lot there. My truck when running wot would build 65ish psia exhaust manifold with the gde tune. When running the turbo braking feature it would upwards of 80 psia that is a ridiculous amount for a 1/16 plate to hold but might be possible. It might work fine but without testing I cant confirm it well.
This is a good point....

In this case it is probably better to just make "invisible" thin block off plates for coolant sides and let the EGR valve to hold the pressure. Because it is closed it won't get too much temperature.
 
Sure glad I joined here, thanks for my response on time and how hard of a job
I do have 1 more problem I'm trying to solve, and reason for wanting delete. EGR cooler was leaking and was replaced under warranty. But the intake manifold and probably head has alot of soft soot and some goo. Any advice on getting this out? Local shop doesn't have a way but a Dodge shop in OKC says the do an induction cleaning of EGR and intake system by BG. Just don't know if this is a waste or not. Cleaned a few intake manifolds before that was like removing cement. And intake manifold is a bear to get off this motor.was also wondering if water injection w/ little or no methanol would work after delete
 
Free2fly , GDE already answered this , when someone asked about removing soot Inside the intake after installing their tune ,
they recommended against going Inside the intake and cleaning the soot in there , for a complete erasing of the soot accumulation during stock tune usage ,
it would not be enough , they talked about having the complete engine
taken apart if you want to remove all the previously accumulated soot , just let the tune keep the vanes open Inside the intake ,.
.................................................................................
found thread but this is what GDE answered : in post # 47
,,, http://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/ram-1500-diesel-maintenance/8417-intake-cleaning-3.html

"" cleaning SOOT inside the intake ..don't do it.
--------------------------------------------------

I asked GDE about cleaning intake after tuning at 45000 miles
They said to get any benefit, would need to tear down the motor,
not just remove/clean the intake.
Also no additives other than anti-jell.
... Chemical cleaning of the intake runs the soot into the combustion chamber , and then a bigger problem than before. ""

GDE are experts , so I'll take their advice. ""
 
Sure glad I joined here, thanks for my response on time and how hard of a job
I do have 1 more problem I'm trying to solve, and reason for wanting delete. EGR cooler was leaking and was replaced under warranty. But the intake manifold and probably head has alot of soft soot and some goo. Any advice on getting this out? Local shop doesn't have a way but a Dodge shop in OKC says the do an induction cleaning of EGR and intake system by BG. Just don't know if this is a waste or not. Cleaned a few intake manifolds before that was like removing cement. And intake manifold is a bear to get off this motor.was also wondering if water injection w/ little or no methanol would work after delete
I cleaned up a few TDI Jettas intakes. All were 300+K kms. All were BRUTAL I mean you could hardly stick you finger in EGR valve opening.

The intakes themselves were also plugged to about 60-70% and the funniest they all drove NORMAL. After clean up I couldn't feel any difference in driving.

If you have 1/8" or 1/4" carbon build up all around it won't affect anything....
 
Thanks guys, guess I missed those post. If there was a thank you button I would click it twice for ya!
..
there sort-of is a thank you button , it is the " Like" button , you can click on , it is at lower right of all posts ,
some members actually have more likes , than number of posts , total is Under your Avatar
in example , I have +/- = 1/3 likes compared to number of posts .. the complete opposite of that , is the possibility to " ignore "
every posts a member writes , when they write something , you can't see it because you chose to have them added to your ignore list
practical for very negative people who always bring you down or get you mad.
 
I didn't know it was not available when coming on here with your mobile , Thanks ...
There you go , you are now at 75% of your post count in likes ...;)
..
now Thursday morning , Free2fly at 150% of your post count in likes .... good start , and welcome to the forum.
 
I talked to GDE and they said EGR is off 100% at least this applies to 2017...
And, just for the record, DEF is also shut off 100% with the GDE tune. The gauge just reads some nominal value (mine reads just under 1/2 full).


This is correct for the OFF ROAD tune but not the HOT TUNE. Hot Tune shuts down EGR but not the DEF. With Off Road tune you also need to remove DPF and replace section of exhaust system. When I have problems with my exhaust and DPF I will move to deleting these.
 
Not true. DEF is 100% off on the MY 2017 with the hot tune.
Oh.....so there is a difference in Hot Tune by model years? I missed the part where Juggernaught was talking about MY 2017
 
Eco sparky , you never came back on the subject of the vacuum hose going to actuator , ..
and the big harness plug , you talked about in post # 79
could you share how you dealt with those in the end ??
 
Eco sparky , you never came back on the subject of the vacuum hose going to actuator , ..
and the big harness plug , you talked about in post # 79
could you share how you dealt with those in the end ??
You are right....sorry. The Sasquatch instructions did not mention what to do about these but when the Sasquatch kit arrived it did have a little black rubber plug to cap the vacuum line. Just nothing mentioned in their instructions. They also include some ty wraps to hold the two harness plugs that are left orphaned as part of the delete. I decided to smear dielectric grease inside the plug contact points of both to prevent corrosion.
 
No need to be sorry , it's just that i made myself a nice little file , sort of a step-by-step on EGR cooler removal , using stage 2 kit .
in case I should ever need to do this , I called the file " Ecosparky EGR cooler delete " . it was missing that info ,
I left an empty line after you inquired on the subjects , now I copy/pasted this post right there .
.
Thanks for all your info , and suffering .....;)
 
No need to be sorry , it's just that i made myself a nice little file , sort of a step-by-step on EGR cooler removal , using stage 2 kit .
in case I should ever need to do this , I called the file " Ecosparky EGR cooler delete " . it was missing that info ,
I left an empty line after you inquired on the subjects , now I copy/pasted this post right there.
Thanks for all your info , and suffering .....<img src="http://www.ram1500diesel.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.png" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

Also be aware that if you downloaded the Sasquatch instructions for the Stage 2 kit, although it states it is both stages they really only cover the 2nd stage. You will need to also download the stage 1 instructions separately. All the insructions still leave you scratching your head at times.
 
Kazimodo since you have put together a list of steps and potential problems and how they where resolved how about a concise how to here for stage 2 removal?

I myself am not looking to do a full delete but sure some of our other members would really appreciate it.
 
I am currently stuck on removing the three tq bolts from the back of the EGR near the firewall. I saw some had trouble with getting these off, I have broken two bits already and about to use some heat to see if that helps. Also, what is done with the hot tube taken off the back? Assuming that is where the last plate goes, the one with three holes? Using the CFT 2 stage kit, already have the two other plates and coolant line plugged.
 
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