Let us know when you figure out where to get it and cost. I spent a few minutes Googling around and could not find them. I guess you just have to go to the dealer, point to it, and say 'one of these, please'.I am going to see if I can find one ot those guys and toss it into my emergency box, just in case.....
If the fuses are in fact good, then check the fan connection plug with a volt meter, if you have power there, the fan motor might be kaka.Sorry to revive an old post, but I'm having the same problem from what I can tell. Had an issue on my 2015 ED w/62k yesterday while sitting at a series of lights in a busy area of the city. Overheated and had to pull off the road as I couldn't do more than 10mph. Popped the hood, noticed the fan wasn't kicked in like it usually is. Killed the engine to cool off a bit. Waited 5 minutes then was able to start up and get up to speed again so that I had enough air flow across the radiator. Temps went back to normal and I was good as long as I didn't sit idle for long.
Checked here today hoping someone might have had this same issue. As I read through the previous threads, I thought for sure it was just a bad (big a$$) fuse. Pulled the fuse, checked for continuity, all is good on the voltmeter since you can't see any physical signs that these types of fuses are bad just by looking at them. Still can't get the radiator fan to kick in though. I've also already checked the fuse box and have the same fuse setup that dub has. All fuses look to be good and intact. Can anyone else suggest any further testing I might be able to do? I see that there is a connector just before the rad fan. Maybe put a voltmeter on it to see if it gets current at some point? Does anyone know for sure at what temp the rad fan is supposed to kick on?
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Appreciate any suggestions provided.
I re-hosted the pics from post #17.THANK. YOU. EvoEco!
Pictured below are the fuses mounted on the positive battery post. I wasn't sure which one it was, so I just guessed by following them into their respective wiring harnesses. One connects to a much larger loom that heads back towards the firewall. It looked like one went directly into the fuse box and the third (circled) went under the fuse box then I lost it. I decided to go for that one first.
As soon as I put my fingers on the rubber cap covering the nut, I knew I had found the problem. It was so loose that it had unthreaded itself half way up the bolt. I took the fuse off anyway. These fuses are new to me; you can't tell if they are good or not just by looking at them. Or perhaps it becomes obvious when the blow? Anyway, the one controlling the rad fan is pictured below. I snugged the nut back up, started the motor, turned on the A/C and watched the fan spin up.
I went camping last weekend which included 26 miles of unimproved roadway to get to the site; I suspect that nut rattled loose. I wonder what else rattled loose... I'm relieved I can cancel my appointment to see the dealer tomorrow. I wonder how much time they would have wasted hooking up their diagnostic equipment to look for faults and running diagnostic checks before finding that loose nut.
Hey Kaz.....bolt was snug and tight. Not loose or blown like I was hoping for......(is it sad that I was hoping for something to be broken?.....lol)I always like it when old threads are revived , but that photobucket new system is robbing us of
the much needed pictures sometimes.
onit , was the bolt loose on that positive post fuse ??
Hey D,Turn on the a/c and see if the fan starts.
I’ve not yet priced a replacement. Haven’t started looking yet. If it’s $100 or so I won’t waste my time troubleshooting, it makes more sense for me just to replace considering how much I drive.The white wire would be the PWM signal. Check between that and the ground in the plug. Try DC volts, you may only see one or two volts if your meter doesn't read duty cycle (or Hertz).
Just out of curiosity, have you priced a replacement fan motor?
PWM = Pulse Width ModulationJust don’t want to get a new fan and plug it in only to find it also doesn’t turn on because of some other issue.
Crash...... am I just looking for minor voltage on that pwm? If I get the voltage what does that mean? What does it mean if I don’t get voltage.......what the hell does pwm even mean? Lol